Okay I have a leak that I have been chasing that appears to be the oil cooler nut/ bypass valve access bolt.

So I dropped the bolt out/down to clean out the joint and re-seal the threads and of course the bypass valve assembly shoots out.

Not paying enough attention as the parts shoot out I am guessing at the re-installation.

If I have this right, The stem (part that pops out when warm) should face into the access bolt, while the retaining spring and spring part of the bypass valve face up into the cooler.

Any one know if that is correct?

 

This is how my cooler was assymbled:

 

ANOTHER JPG:

 

Thanks, it looks like I had it right based on your picture.

I checked the manual (both shop and haynes) and it wasn't the most clear.

 

^
(just in case anyone else has feedback)

 

Isn't there a way to keep oil flowing through it full force at all times?

 

Well in therory if Hailers and I have it right, you should be able to shim with washers (inside the bolt) the valve up at least 5mm (factory manual min).

I guess I was concerned because I was getting a lot of air in the oil system and oil pressure of only around 35lbs after re-installing it. The cooler was getting warm as the engine got warm, but the air/foaming of the oil had me baffelled. I have a leak on the upper cooler line (that I just found this morning) right at the hose joint to fitting. As well as a small leak under the oil filter itself, so I need to replace the line and figure a way to pull off the filter mount with the engine in, before the engine is completely not leaking in anyway.

*Edit. So I ordered new cooler lines from Corksport (they had the SS cooler lines for less than Mazdatrix) and they should be here Monday so I can check the foaming oil issue again then.

 

I ordered SS brake lines from corksport almost a month ago and still no SS brake lines!

 

The scanned picture is how it came apart on a spare oil cooler I have. The only thing I left out is the large spring that goes over the small spring. It has to go in the cooler this way. If you put it in *** backward, the TIT that extends when hot, would have nothing to push against (hole on the oil cooler side). The TIT has to go towards the bolt so it has something to shove against when it extends. Dang, you had me second guessing myself. Grrrrrr. I came within an inch of pulling one off a running car.

 

Make sure you use new washers. It will help keep the leaking down to nothing.

James

 

I called them yesterday. They had them in-stock and should arrive to me on Monday.

 

I completely understand. I assembled it as you said, (which was how I remember it shooting out) which is as it appears in the shop man, and Haynes (in those vague pictures)... but the foam and low pressure worried me.

I'll know Monday for sure when I get the new lines on.

 

The Grrrr is humor. Anyway I put the thing in boiling water and watched the tit extend, and then came back an hour later and it was still extended. Put it in the ice box and it was still extended. Hmmmmm. Started to piddle with it and the tit that extends came out in my fingers. Hmmmm. Decided I need to get back to painting the house. I'll worry about this some other day. The Scarrlett 0'hara syndrom.

 

Yeah, that thing will not retract by its self. That is what that big seperate spring is for. It forces it in the hole.

James

 

Joining the party late,but one other thing yyou should check carefully is the welded boss on the bottom of the oil cooler into which the relief valve fits.I have seen at least four where there was acrack in the boss which was the cause of oil leakage.

 

yes I checked the boss it was fine. In fact after I re-installed the bolt and valve assembly and the new crush washers on both sides of both lines it was perfect.

Didn't leak at all (well other than the bottom of the oil filter mount and now the top cooler line where the fitting meets the actual flexible part of the hose).

 

Before everyone kills me for bringing this back....I cant get in touch with Hailers via PM or email.

So, HAILERS, can you please repost the pix from above. I need to see what this bypass valve looks like. They should be pix of the pellet on a table showing all its parts assembled in proper order.

Thanks, and sorry for the trouble.
-a

 

As an FYI, it is said to be a bad idea to remove the thermo valve and allow full pressure into the cooler at all times. The first reason that most people bring up is that the valve is there to help heat up oil in the engine faster, supposedly for gas mileage. The more important, and usually overlooked reason for the valve, is to keep excess pressure from the cooler. When cold, oil is very thick (duh) and thus a very high pressure is generated by the oilpump at the same rpm, when compared to hot (thin) oil. Supposedly this high pressure, if the cooler were subjected to it, could increase the risk of failure of the cooler itself (and catastrophic engine failure could result). This has been covered in the FD section more so than here, because those cars run even higher oil pressure than an FC. Obviously it might not be of as much concern to us, but still noteworthy.

EDIT

Here's the thread. Good reading.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=oil