vegeta6263

IM premix, meaning i ahve no oil metering pump or lines do i still need to buy one of these oil catch cans?.. since im gonan remove all emmisions but im gonna kee the air pump

Project84

the only time you will need a catch can is if you remove the vaccuum line(s) going from the oil fill tube to the intake manifold. The line(s) vent crank case pressure (and any oil that overflows due to that pressure) into the intake manifold.

N/A engines have 1 vaccuum line and I believe TII engines have 2.

vegeta6263

so i can buy that line instead right? nothing to it? it doesnt damage performance or reliability? if so.. how ? i have an s4 N//A

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

The correct way to do it if you remove all the emissions & don't feel like routing it back into your inlet duct is using a catchcan and a breather filter, however, some of us cheat and just route it to the charcoal canister.

vegeta6263

any bad things about just route it to the charcoal canister? what are the benifits compared to this if i buy a oil catcher can and a breather filter?

Fitness Stain

im curious as well

vegeta6263

bump

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

the catch can is shinier than the charcoal canister... that's about it.

vegeta6263

so basically whta u are saying is a waste of money to get a oil catcher can and a filter?

ERAUMAZDA

On a turbo a oil catch can can allow the oil vapors to go into the turbo

Fitness Stain

so...that would be bad right?
i was thinking about using the charcol canister as my catch can, but if its gonna allow stuff other than to hit my turbo im gonna think twice about it

ERAUMAZDA

other than

Fitness Stain

air.....

damn, just realized that i needed to add that
haha

ERAUMAZDA

well lets see. hmmmmm. Oil vapors going into the turbo inlet and lubricating the the blades, bears, and shaft would be a good thing.

vegeta6263

ok so this extra 60 bucks for the can will go to my pocket then =). the car comes with teh canister right? does anyone have a picture? i plan on keeping my air pump

Liquid Anarchy

iTrader: (2)

it's the big black thing on the passanger side, near the firewall.

ERAUMAZDA

yeah it has to big black lines that go to it...locks like a cylinder

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

HANS why are you keeping the air pump???

ERAUMAZDA

hahahaha

Fitness Stain

well lets see. . . hmmmmm. . . oil of any kind going into the turbo inlet would soak the intake. you dont want oil in the intake WHAT-SO-EVER!!! the oil that would be going in there would NEVER touch the "bears". those are sealed off. . . that part is obvious, wouldnt you say? you want the blades to be as clean as they possibly can be. the only thing that makes the turbo spin easier is the efficiency of its bearings and seals. by lubing the blades you are saying that you are lubing the air. kinda pointless. . . do you wipe oil on your car to make it go faster? no. . . you dont.

bottom line is get a catch can or keep the pcv valve in place. a catch can tends to do the job a little bit better. . . a correctly designed one anyway.

by letting oil get into your intake you allow once useble fuel to get "caught up" in the oil. you no longer can use the oil since its on the walls of the intake.

keep your intake flow area clean. . . youll flow waaaaaaay more.


the charcoal canister isnt the same thing either. its an emissions device that cleans the fuel vapors prior to venting them to the air. . . its also a safety measure. forget about it. . . mines been gone for a long time.

the oil that would go into the charcoal canister would clog it up and would no longer do anything. and you dont really want to risk getting little pieces of charcoal in your intake.

when you put a catch can in place you have three ports. one is an inlet coming from the oil pan. this port needs to have a baffle directly behind it. the baffle catches the oil and keeps it from moving around in the air. without that baffle the can is pointless. the oil will stay in the intake and go right into the turbo. the second is an outlet going to the TID. by making that the cans outlet you are making sure that the can constantly sees vaccum. this means that the oil pan will always be properly ventilated. the third port is a drain. using a screw type drain that you can buy from ace hardware or wherever. this allows you do simply drain the built up oil.

paul. . . rotorbrain (im on fitness stains computer)

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

oil gets routed into the intake stock. Have you even seen the inside of an intake? Mine has oil comming from the Purge vavle(when I had it). Perhaps it shouldn't go into the turbo but in the intake it won't hurt anything. If it would my car would have some problem because of it.

rotorbrain

well, i dont remember a purge valve. . . i have never seen an oiled intake system. clean efficient airflow is the ticket.

yes, i have seen the inside of the intake as well as my engine and various other parts of my fd. having oil in there isnt the best in the world. tell me what this purge valve is.

the only time that oil is injected into the intake on my car is at the rotorhousing. . . and that is 2cycle oil.

to be honest, i really dont remember a purge valve. it was a good thing that you got rid of it. if oil is in your manifold its just gonna cake up and not be a very good flow helper.

i cant believe this is a controversy. oil and intake piping dont match. that much is obvious.

paul

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

Well the purge valve is part of the rats nest. I has lines routed to the UIM you can see the oil that has gotten on there over time. I don't think it is a good thing but I was jut pointing out that the purge valve does allow oil into the intake.

rotorbrain

is it supposed to or is it just doing that because it goes bad? i really dont understand why mazda would try to put oil into the intake when they try so hard with a pcv valve to make sure it doesnt. haha.

paul