Valkyrie

I drove home again this weekend it seems to have developed a strange whirring sound (high pitched but it doesn't sound like a destructive grinding...sort of electric motor-ish) that happens when accelerating or decelerating to or from mid or high RPMs (above 4K).

What sort of things might cause? Sometimes I think my throwout or pilot bearings make a similar sound when I shift (almost sounds like slight turbocharger whine), but I don't know whether they would be related or not.

Also, there seems to be a chassis vibration sort of buzzing when I give it throttle... it might have just been me not closing the door properly but it might have been coming from the engine bay... It seems to be coming from A pillars for some reason.

Also, my hatch has become a bit squeeky... I figure I could fix that with some electrical tape on the latches or something (years of slamming it closed has torn off any coatings off the chassis sides of the locks). Does anyone know how to adjust the hatch release, for that matter?

Rotarctica

Every FC I've driven/seen has a slight electric motor-ish sound when accelerating. Both of my FCs, one with a rebuild tranny with low miles and another with 194k on it have a faint whirring in neutral with the clutch out. I've heard it's the input shaft bearing.

The trim in these cars will always develop rattles. Mine squeaks and rattles if there's a lot of cracks or bumps in the road surface. Also, exhausts can rattle against..well..anything.

The hatch being kinda squeaky has happened on every hatch back car I've ever owned. Stop slamming the hatch. Push the hatch until it's two inches from being closed and then 'firmly' push it until it clicks shut. I've never gotten rid of my hatch squeaks. My current FC doesn't have it yet.

The hatch release cable stretches with age. The simplest two minute fix (permanent) that I found without getting a new cable or spending the time to adjust it... Get a small hair clip. Girls use it to pin back their hair in vastly out of style ways. Clip one on the cable between the release latch and the round stopper ball on the end and you officially have a permanent fix...well...at least until the cable stretches or breaks years from now. This has worked on all my hatch back cars and I've never run into an issue.

Valkyrie

Well, this whirring didn't start until yesterday. The whistle-like sound that happens when I shift (I can only hear it when the fan and radio are off, of course) has been going on for months.

It also sounds a bit different than the typical whirring that what I assume the alternator one of the accesories makes... It also seems a bit different than the buzzing air relief hose problem I used to have (fixed that using a hose with holes in it)... but that's a possibility since it happens around the same RPM.

I figure it might be the transmission since it happens mainly in gear I think. The throwout bearing definately needs to be replaced since it whirs when the clutch is in.

I think I might have fixed the hatches' sticky latch (I used to have to fiddle with the latch to open it) by adjust not the cable, but the locks themselves (moved them up as far as they word), as well as giving it a bit of WD40 (if only that fixing my brake pedal sqeak was that easy). Hopefully this will also fix the wonky hatch light (comes on whenver I open the hatch with the exterior key and then close it, but th elight doesn't go off).

IMO the hood and hatches never seem to close right unless you close them "firmly."

Another noise that has me concerned is a strange clink-clink sound (it's fairly subtle). Any idea what part of the engine or accesories would make a clinking sound, even right as the engine is turned off (occasionally)?

My steering gear (ie, rods, rack, knunckles, or something) seems to have developed a slightly sound too...

Valkyrie

Speaking of wierd....stuff... I was driving back to school today and my clutch suddenly went out on me.

I pulled over to see that my slave cylinder had come completely unbolted, and with the piston completely popped out of the cylinder. It took over two hours to fix this (good thing I was only three miles from home... my parents came so I could go buy new bolts.

Apparently they were waaay too short since I tried to bolt them back in and they hardly threaded in at all... I bought some ones of the same size (at least the threaded section was the same length, the originals had a non-threaded section on the front for some reason), and they were even worse, so I got some longer ones, and one bolted in fine, but with the other one I had to shim it 6 or 7 MMs... wierd.

It took forever to get the bolts in since the cylinder didn't want to line up because of pressure in the piston (guess I should have opened the bleed valve)...plus I dropped them about 6 times (had to move the car with the starter motor...although I'm sure that's not a very good idea).

There's a tear in the boot but they didn't have any in stock at the store, so that's gonna have to wait for another day...

Apparently that was unrelated to any of the sounds I'm having (except MAYBE a ticking noise). I think my squeaking noise may be my air pump since I didn't install it correctly last time, since the design is ghetto and requires a spacer (which I lost, and I didn't use enough washers), not to mention the bolt that holds it on is a TOTAL pita to put in...it didn't seem to move much, though...

And ironically, my hatch works even worse now than before, even though it worked great right after I adjusted it.

(I realize this crap was basically all my fault, I just like to whine)