RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

Strangest thing I've seen in a while. But I took the oil filler cap off and there was white goop stuck to the inside neck and under the oil fil cap. Also, it was oozing from the purge valve on the neck which I blew clean. There also appeared to be water or condensation inside the cap. I first thought maybe it was something that came off my new chrome rotor oil filler cap but I'm thinking it must be due to everything being blocked off? I know I need an oil catch can but I'm at a loss as to how they hook up. I keep hearing about two nipples on the oil filler neck or something but there's only one. All my emissions are removed on this fresh rebuilt NA motor fyi. Should I be concerned about this?

Don49

iTrader: (3)

The white goop is from moisture. Are you losing any coolant? If not it can come from running the motor for short periods and not getting it fully up to temp. Condensation forms and with the oil makes the white goop. On a fresh rebuild I would be concerned about a coolant leak.

RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

****, yeah it is leaking coolant from somewhere. I haven't figured that out yet I figured it was just a loose hose fitting somewhere and was more concerned about oil leaking from that purge valve and making a mess

RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

So is it safe to assume this is an internal leak and not external? ****, I'm not pulling the motor again. I'm so sick of this car...it's gonna get sold as is probably

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

As long as your oil doesn't look like coffee it's normal.

Black91n/a

A little on the cap isn't that bad, and as has been said it can happen from just plain old moisture in the air and condensation, if all your oil is discolored like that then it's bad.

NA/FC-Drifter

My car did the exact same thing under the same exact conditions (i.e. fresh rebuild, no emissions, large street port) only its not leaking anywhere/ My coolant level hassen't dropped. I was thinking it might have something to do with all the assembly lube still in there, and the short trips ( i only drive like 6-7miles to work).

RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

hmmm I guess I'll monitor it. It does have a street port and it's only got about 6 or 700 miles on it and I just changed the oil. Which is when I noticed it. The oil didn't appear to have any white **** in it. Coffee looking oil though? I really didn't pay that much attention to it though it did seem a bit dark for so little miles. It's not smoking at all so I suppose that's a positive

iox106

iTrader: (1)

Same thing happened to me. It could be mositure or a coolent leak. With my luck it was the coolent leak

RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

That's what I'm thinking. I know my luck...nothing ever goes my way I've owned this car for 11 years and only driven it two and a half, maybe three? I'm way past the point of giving up on it. Told myself if anything went wrong it's gone

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

Coffee with milk in it You would have noticed.

Street_Knight

It's what us tech's call a "milk shake". The coolant mixes with the oil and you get a nice lumpy milk shake.
If you can't find where your coolant is going, I think I can tell you.
do an oil change, If your oil looks like a chocolate milk shake. It's an internal leak and you should probably start crying.
Any questions, Send me a message

RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

Well I def have an external leak that I can't find but those wouldn't cause this I assume? What other symptoms should I look for to determine if there's an internal leak?

Street_Knight

Like I said; Check your oil, if it's like I described then it's an internal leak. But no an external leak wouldn't cause this. You might also (and might not) experience white smoke. That's another indecator.....but you might not get that.

b13_aSelf

i had this come and go every 4 or 5 months or so... noticed a leak at the top rad fill up, changed the seal along with some other leaking coolant lines and seems to have gone away... also good to check the 2 or 3 coolant lines that go in to the intake manifold.

probably a good idea to check all the oil lines/fittings leading to and from the oil cooler too...

RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the ideas. I actually just tightened up one the fittings from the oil cooler line on the motor. I dunno if it was leaking from there or not but I was seeing oil on it.

I'll keep looking for the coolant leak though. I tried feeling around above the rear iron and I think it felt wet back there. I hope that hose clamp isn't loose...don't want to have to take everything off to get to it. I'm so sick of working on cars, I just want something that runs right for once

RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

Well it def doesn't smoke at all and the oil didn't look creamy either when I changed it so I hope I'm good. It wasn't a lot of white gunk build up really either. Just a little snot in the purge and some dried up stuff under the cap and on the neck. I guess I'll check the oil frequently to see what's going on. Don't wanna change the oil again since I just did

Rx7Ridah

iTrader: (8)

if you really are concerned with a coolant leak, be it internal or external the best way to tell is have a coolant pressure test done. if that all holds out fine then start driving your car for longer distances more often between changes. On a side note, anyone ever do an oil change on any of the new jeep engines (3.7 or 4.7)? everytime the oil cap and filler spout (which has like a plug in it from the factory) are filled with 3-8 ounces of that ****.

876portturbo

iTrader: (4)

I agree with the others, as long as its your oil looks good I wouldnt sweat it. On my car I have a Jaz catch can and it does that, its basically just a atmosperic vent. Most guys have eliminated the stock valve and other parts that puts a vacuum on the vapors to recirculate it through the intake.

876portturbo

iTrader: (4)

I just reread the post, to do a catch can just run some hose from the nipple on the filler neck and the center iron to the can. You can mount wherever you prefer, they are on ebay, jegs, summit. The filter on top is your vent, mine has a little lever on the bottom to drain any excess fluid

RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info...where's the nipple on the center iron that you can use? It's just a vac line or what? All my vac stuff is capped off too.

876portturbo

iTrader: (4)

The one on the center iron is also a crankcase vent, instead of capping them you could just put some hose on each one and let it hang down. That way it will still vent, obviously you will pick up the moisture in the air so its no lung butter fix, but it will do the trick. From my understanding it is bad to cap those, turbo cars will smoke sometimes from the added crankcase pressure.

RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

**** I gotta take a look under the hood. Can't visualize it exactly...is that on the passenger side then? I think there's a few nipples there. I capped them all off.

risingsunroof82

iTrader: (3)

I just looked this thread up cause my 7 just started doing the same only I have a 12a. My add coolant light flicks on for just a second. Is this an indicator of anything?

RotorBalls

iTrader: (1)

Just an fyi to anyone else who finds this thread. My problem went away on it's own. I only had to clean the goop out twice in less than 800 miles. My guess is with the fresh rebuild and coolant seals it just took a while for things to get seated