i'm working on my 10AE and i'm trying to get things sorted out. it has a little bit of a mis at idle and i want to make sure my timing is correct..i notice that the cas has a sticker saying that its an N326. now, my ecu should be an N332 if i'm not mistaken. the BACV says N332. anyone know the difference in the N series BACV's and CAS's? the engine that is in the car is an ebay purchased S4 jspec deal. i swapped over all of my a-spec parts onto the bare block except for the cas. any ideas? the exhaust on the car is pretty shabby. there are no mufflers and there is a leak at the main converter. i'm not sure what bearing this would have on the odd idling.

 

n326 should work. all FC CAS's are interchangeable.

 

thats good to know! i learned something today about the FC! i'll post a video of the running condition. i only get the rough running at idle. wondering if my exhaust leaks and lack of mufflers would cause it to run rough.. the thing runs awesome on the road and accelerates like it was rear ended by a garbage truck. all vacuum lines are new as are engine gaskets. new fuel and air filter, plugs, wires..this has been ongoing for the 800 and change miles that i've driven the car

 

CAS can be interchanged, as 87 T-66 said, and differences in BAC valves will be physically obvious. Electronically, they all work the same.

 

here's a video of a cold start:

 

seems to me it runs fine

 

just seems to shake a bit when the rpm's are under 1K..

 

i'm still not sold on the timing..

 

here's another video. it was taken just after the first one. notice how the car shakes at idle. engine mounts are good.

 

i would replace the exhaust if its really bad and see if the problem goes away.

 

once i find a pair of oem mufflers i'll be in business. not sure i can affors the RB setup right now.

 

Looks like your oil pressure sending unit is disconnected. I didn't see any oil pressure in the vids. Not that it is any way related to the problem, just an observation.

 

its connected and i've tried several op sending units. the gauge used to max out and since i changed the sender, it does not read at all...

 

i have a friends car that does that but worse, since they are both 10ae's , i'm thinking that's what the problem is....

the real answer is that its a t2, you need to go and make sure EVERYTHING is right.

since its running and together, start with the timing, then do the TPS and idle mixture etc etc. if someone has tampered with the AFM or the TB, it helps to put these back to stock.

step 2, is to start checking ALL of the vacuum lines, the diagram is poop, and you MUST have ALL of the vacuum lines going to the right places, other wise you will have weird problems. most common one is to have the fuel pressure regulator hooked up so it doesn't see boost

step 3, there are all kinds of valves and things on top of the motor, cracked hoses, the injector o rings are rock hard etc etc

step 4 compression check!

if you have a tight motor and all the stock stuff is hooked up and working properly, it makes a huge difference, especially at idle

 

since its running and together, start with the timing, then do the TPS and idle mixture etc etc. if someone has tampered with the AFM or the TB, it helps to put these back to stock.

STEP1---i'll check the tps and would love to check timing but i believe i get no reading on the trailing. i'll check tomorrow and verify that. the TB anf AFM are original an dhave not been tapmered with

step 2, is to start checking ALL of the vacuum lines, the diagram is poop, and you MUST have ALL of the vacuum lines going to the right places, other wise you will have weird problems. most common one is to have the fuel pressure regulator hooked up so it doesn't see boost

STEP 2---the vacuum lines are new. i replaced every one when the engine was out. i believe they are all hooked up properly. anything is possible though and one may be off. runs fine otherwise just odd shaking at idle.

step 3, there are all kinds of valves and things on top of the motor, cracked hoses, the injector o rings are rock hard etc etc

STEP 3---the injectors have been sent out to witchhunter performance and have all been cleaned and flow tested. all grommets and o-rings have been replaced. the only cracked hose is the turbo inlet duct. so far as i know its not leaking. i used the starting fluid method and the map gas method. most if not all hoses (short of the brake booster hose and filler neck vent hose) were replaced when i replaced the engine

step 4 compression check!

---almost afraid to do one. starts and runs well (above idle, lol) with great power so i've never done one. couldnt hurt i guess.

 

sounds dumb but maybe leaking booster? i had a leak in one which f***ed my idle up like that and it would pop on decel too... changed the booster and idled cherry! oh yeah i added msd too!

 

i dont suspect a vacuum leak but i'll recheck the booster hose. cant be too sure