o2 sensor
the oxygen sensor is sorta like the engines "final product overview."
it determines what it just did, what the results were, and sends a signal on what should be changed in order to achieve better results.
so, yep.. affects alot of stuff..
it determines what it just did, what the results were, and sends a signal on what should be changed in order to achieve better results.
so, yep.. affects alot of stuff..
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O2 sensor is only used for high vacuum/low load cruising ranges.  It's only used for gas mileage at highway speeds.  It does not influence idle...unless you short the wires and blow the ECU. 
-Ted

-Ted
A single wire o2 sensors only purpose is to test exhaust gas temperature. It is extremly inneficient thats why stand alone use a multi wire o2 sensor that tests cars that are running lean or rich.
Right but i'm wondering whether or not it will affect my 1000-2000RPM in neutral misfire. Meaning the car randomly misfires if i depress the accelerator between 1000 and 2000 rpm
Would the o2 sensor be responsible?
Would the o2 sensor be responsible?
Originally posted by Fingers
Right but i'm wondering whether or not it will affect my 1000-2000RPM in neutral misfire. Meaning the car randomly misfires if i depress the accelerator between 1000 and 2000 rpm
Would the o2 sensor be responsible?
Right but i'm wondering whether or not it will affect my 1000-2000RPM in neutral misfire. Meaning the car randomly misfires if i depress the accelerator between 1000 and 2000 rpm
Would the o2 sensor be responsible?
What part of *the o2 sensor is not used at idle* is not understood? Idle being in this case, sitting still and not moving. Anyway, it's not messing your cars idle up or making it run pig rich. Look for bad plugs, bad timing, bad water thermo sensor, bad tps, bad timing, bad plug wires,.Bad compression on one or more sides of a rotor, compression varying by toooo much b/t front and rear rotor, air leak from acv (the anti-afterburn part of the acv), bad bad (bad, bad is the hard to find one).
This: **A single wire o2 sensors only purpose is to test exhaust gas temperature.***** is an incorrect statement. Read: http://www.flash.net/~lorint/lorin/fuel/lambda.htm
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question257.htm
This: **A single wire o2 sensors only purpose is to test exhaust gas temperature.***** is an incorrect statement. Read: http://www.flash.net/~lorint/lorin/fuel/lambda.htm
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question257.htm
Last edited by HAILERS; May 27, 2003 at 09:43 PM.
does the gauge and the ecu share the same water thermo sensor?
And with regards to timing, i checked without the initial set coupler. Will there be a big difference if i check with the jumper in place?
Thing is, i'm getting no backfires. It just misfires at idle between 1000 and 2000RPM, and upon decelleration (not backfire... but small popping sounds as the rpm goes down, rpm is affected when popping is heard)
Thanks
-Ross
And with regards to timing, i checked without the initial set coupler. Will there be a big difference if i check with the jumper in place?
Thing is, i'm getting no backfires. It just misfires at idle between 1000 and 2000RPM, and upon decelleration (not backfire... but small popping sounds as the rpm goes down, rpm is affected when popping is heard)
Thanks
-Ross
does the gauge and the ecu share the same water thermo sensor?
NO
And with regards to timing, i checked without the initial set coupler. Will
there be a big difference if i check with the jumper in place?
NO. As long as the idle speed is close to 750rpm when you set the timing. Anything around/over 1000 when setting the timing, the timing is messed with by the ECU progarm. So do it around 750rpm give or take. Just not over 1000rpm.
NO
And with regards to timing, i checked without the initial set coupler. Will
there be a big difference if i check with the jumper in place?
NO. As long as the idle speed is close to 750rpm when you set the timing. Anything around/over 1000 when setting the timing, the timing is messed with by the ECU progarm. So do it around 750rpm give or take. Just not over 1000rpm.
Originally posted by Dan H
Multi wire 02 sensors....are they also known as wide band sensors? Or are they not the same?
Multi wire 02 sensors....are they also known as wide band sensors? Or are they not the same?
Originally posted by Fingers
does the gauge and the ecu share the same water thermo sensor?
does the gauge and the ecu share the same water thermo sensor?
Thing is, i'm getting no backfires. It just misfires at idle between 1000 and 2000RPM, and upon decelleration (not backfire... but small popping sounds as the rpm goes down, rpm is affected when popping is heard)
Originally posted by Bruce
A single wire o2 sensors only purpose is to test exhaust gas temperature.
A single wire o2 sensors only purpose is to test exhaust gas temperature.
It is extremly inneficient...
...thats why stand alone use a multi wire o2 sensor that tests cars that are running lean or rich.
Originally posted by NZConvertible
No, wide-band sensors are completely different to the sensors used in cars. Multi-wire sensors have a heating element in them that brings the sensor up to temp quicker. O2 sensors don't give any useable readings until they're quite hot, so the sooner they can start working the sooner they can start reducing fuel consumption and emissions. Other than the heating element, multi-band O2 sensors work exactly the same as single-wire ones.
No, wide-band sensors are completely different to the sensors used in cars. Multi-wire sensors have a heating element in them that brings the sensor up to temp quicker. O2 sensors don't give any useable readings until they're quite hot, so the sooner they can start working the sooner they can start reducing fuel consumption and emissions. Other than the heating element, multi-band O2 sensors work exactly the same as single-wire ones.
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