Not getting spark, tach not moving while cranking
10-12-11, 04:42 PM
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Not getting spark, tach not moving while cranking
Both coil packs will not fire a spark, the battery is brand new.
I've cleaned all the contacts on both of them and re-installed, same issue.
All of the fuses are good, spark plugs are brand new, wires are kinda old but show no signs of corrosion whatsoever. They read OK with the multimeter
Where else can i look? Also it did have the mazda alarm system.. could that be my problem? I'm not sure which connector to jump to make it fire
I've cleaned all the contacts on both of them and re-installed, same issue.
All of the fuses are good, spark plugs are brand new, wires are kinda old but show no signs of corrosion whatsoever. They read OK with the multimeter
Where else can i look? Also it did have the mazda alarm system.. could that be my problem? I'm not sure which connector to jump to make it fire
10-12-11, 05:02 PM
#2
Does the car turn over w/key to start? If it does then the alarm is not the problem.
Pull the White 2 wire plug off of the leading coil and test the Black/Yellow wire for battery voltage w/key to on as it should be present. This wire powers the coils.
There is a Green check connector w/4 wires near the leading coil. One of the 4 wires is Black/White. W/key to on this wire should have battery voltage. This wire powers up the ECU which is vital.
Make sure the Meter fuse is good. If the idiot lights come on w/key to on then this fuse is good.
Pull the White 2 wire plug off of the leading coil and test the Black/Yellow wire for battery voltage w/key to on as it should be present. This wire powers the coils.
There is a Green check connector w/4 wires near the leading coil. One of the 4 wires is Black/White. W/key to on this wire should have battery voltage. This wire powers up the ECU which is vital.
Make sure the Meter fuse is good. If the idiot lights come on w/key to on then this fuse is good.
10-12-11, 05:18 PM
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Does the car turn over w/key to start? If it does then the alarm is not the problem.
Pull the White 2 wire plug off of the leading coil and test the Black/Yellow wire for battery voltage w/key to on as it should be present. This wire powers the coils.
There is a Green check connector w/4 wires near the leading coil. One of the 4 wires is Black/White. W/key to on this wire should have battery voltage. This wire powers up the ECU which is vital.
Pull the White 2 wire plug off of the leading coil and test the Black/Yellow wire for battery voltage w/key to on as it should be present. This wire powers the coils.
There is a Green check connector w/4 wires near the leading coil. One of the 4 wires is Black/White. W/key to on this wire should have battery voltage. This wire powers up the ECU which is vital.
10-12-11, 05:39 PM
#5
There is a relay located to the right of the steering column just under the dash. The relay is Black and Yellow. The plug to the relay has two rows a top row and a bottom row. The top row has three wires. The center wire is Black/White. This wire should have voltage w/key to on. If it doesn't then it llikely means the 15 amp Engine fuse is blown which would prevent the Main relay from working which would prevent the Black/Yellow wire at the leading coil from having voltage in addition to the B/W wire at the Green check connector near the leading coil.
10-12-11, 05:43 PM
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There is a relay located to the right of the steering column just under the dash. The relay is Black and Yellow. The plug to the relay has two rows a top row and a bottom row. The top row has three wires. The center wire is Black/White. This wire should have voltage w/key to on. If it doesn't then it llikely means the 15 amp Engine fuse is blown which would prevent the Main relay from working which would prevent the Black/Yellow wire at the leading coil from having voltage in addition to the B/W wire at the Green check connector near the leading coil.
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10-12-11, 06:05 PM
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It was the fuse, i completely forgot about that one in the fusebox inside the car. I was able to get it started, however it will only run on ether =/ i think my fuel lines may be clogged
10-12-11, 06:09 PM
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Also, it has 5 gallons of fresh gas in the tank, the fuel meter did not move for the 20 seconds it was running, i'm assuming a fault in the fuel system, i cannot hear the pump running
10-12-11, 06:29 PM
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I jumped the wire, turned the key to ON and waited 10 seconds, heard no noise. I repeated this step 3 times and still nothing.
The car started by itself but for about 2 seconds and shut off, won't start again without ether
The car started by itself but for about 2 seconds and shut off, won't start again without ether
10-12-11, 06:42 PM
#14
The relay you looked at near the steering wheel governs the voltage to the fuel pump.
Top row far left B/W wire should have voltage w/key to "start." Does yours?
You know the top row center B/W wire should have voltage w/key to on. Does it still?
The Blue wire at the top right should have voltage w/key to start and no jumper in place. With the fuel check connector in place it should also have voltage w/key to on.
The "solid Black" wire in the bottom row far left is a ground wire. You could use this wire for the voltage meter when looking for a ground source when testing for voltage in that area of the car. Black meter lead to this Black wire and the Red lead to the wire being tested for voltage.
Lastly, if the Black wire is jumpered to the Brown wire in this plug it is the same thing as jumpering the fuel check connector but in a different place.
Top row far left B/W wire should have voltage w/key to "start." Does yours?
You know the top row center B/W wire should have voltage w/key to on. Does it still?
The Blue wire at the top right should have voltage w/key to start and no jumper in place. With the fuel check connector in place it should also have voltage w/key to on.
The "solid Black" wire in the bottom row far left is a ground wire. You could use this wire for the voltage meter when looking for a ground source when testing for voltage in that area of the car. Black meter lead to this Black wire and the Red lead to the wire being tested for voltage.
Lastly, if the Black wire is jumpered to the Brown wire in this plug it is the same thing as jumpering the fuel check connector but in a different place.
10-12-11, 06:49 PM
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The relay you looked at near the steering wheel governs the voltage to the fuel pump.
Top row far left B/W wire should have voltage w/key to "start." Does yours?
You know the top row center B/W wire should have voltage w/key to on. Does it still?
The Blue wire at the top right should have voltage w/key to start and no jumper in place. With the fuel check connector in place it should also have voltage w/key to on.
The "solid Black" wire in the bottom row far left is a ground wire. You could use this wire for the voltage meter when looking for a ground source when testing for voltage in that area of the car. Black meter lead to this Black wire and the Red lead to the wire being tested for voltage.
Lastly, if the Black wire is jumpered to the Brown wire in this plug it is the same thing as jumpering the fuel check connector but in a different place.
Top row far left B/W wire should have voltage w/key to "start." Does yours?
You know the top row center B/W wire should have voltage w/key to on. Does it still?
The Blue wire at the top right should have voltage w/key to start and no jumper in place. With the fuel check connector in place it should also have voltage w/key to on.
The "solid Black" wire in the bottom row far left is a ground wire. You could use this wire for the voltage meter when looking for a ground source when testing for voltage in that area of the car. Black meter lead to this Black wire and the Red lead to the wire being tested for voltage.
Lastly, if the Black wire is jumpered to the Brown wire in this plug it is the same thing as jumpering the fuel check connector but in a different place.
Is there any other places to check in the mean time? engine bay fuses are good, so are the ones inside the car..
I'm going to check for loose connections
10-12-11, 06:58 PM
#16
pop off the rear carpet and the LR shack tower cover, remove the metal cover from the cover of the fuel tank and inspect the wiring from the tank all the way up to where it meets the main interior harness at the LR shock tower.
considering you have no gas gauge i suspect you have an issue with the pump connector unplugged or a rust rotted tank.
considering you have no gas gauge i suspect you have an issue with the pump connector unplugged or a rust rotted tank.
10-13-11, 12:50 PM
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I replaced the pump and re-wired it, everything runs fine
Once and a while the car studders badly while accelerating or revving. I'm going to assume it just needs a new fuel filter and an injector cleaning
Once and a while the car studders badly while accelerating or revving. I'm going to assume it just needs a new fuel filter and an injector cleaning
10-13-11, 01:27 PM
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Also offhand, do you know how long the brake lines are for the rx7 going from the front of the car to the rear?
10-13-11, 06:36 PM
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I bought all new brake lines and the tools to cut and bend them..
Now i need to figure out why my car studders, im thinking its the filter but im not sure
Now i need to figure out why my car studders, im thinking its the filter but im not sure
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