Ok.. before, i adjusted the tps and the car ran fine with an ok idle... i sat the car in the garage for 2 weeks... now it wont even idle at all, it just dies when u lift the gas. On idle reving, itll start the hessitate and very hard to get pass 3k or so, unless i step on it a lot more. I did a compression check and both came out in the 90s front and rear. Can it be a vac leak or the BAC valve or throttle stop screw??? i dont know
please let me know, i want to get the car to Rotary Fest!!!

Thanks

 

help please!!!

 

check for a large vacuum leak in the intake system as well do a complete tune up.

 

it wouldnt be as simple as a vac leak on the bov could it??? i felt some air comming out of the bov on idle

 

could be but you shouldn't feel air coming out of the BOV at idle, it should be sucking in air not blowing it out.

 

What are the different possibilities to this problem?

 

if you have a propane torch just turn it on but do not light it, go around the UIM and intake ducts with the engine running and if the idle increases or smooths out then you are close to a leak in the system. you can also do this with carburetor or brake cleaner but those are more of a fire risk however will net better results at finding a vacuum leak. always have a fire extinguisher handy while doing tests like this.

 

If your open-vented BOV is leaking at idle, the engine won't idle. Simple as that.

 

tightened the bov, used a little carb-cleaner.... no luck... sigh.....

If i just adjusted the TPS, should i also adjust the BAC and the throttle stop screw

 

and now the engine light is on when they key is on "ON" but when i start the car, it goes off... dont know if thats normal

 

Pull the vac hose off the BOV and plug it. Does that allow it to idle? If it does then the BOV is the problem. If it doesn't then check all the other hoses for a large leak, including the TID.

All of the warning lights should come on when you tyurn the ignition on, and then go out when the engine starts.

 

I checked for Vac leaks and i really cant find any big leaks or leaks at all. I think the previous owner of the car changed a lot of hose's at Hose Techniques a couple of weeks b4 i bought the car. But i can check again later.
So I guess the chances of it being stuff like throttle cable(knocked off a few times) or BAC or stuff like that is pretty low??

 

more ideas welcome

 

hook an air compressor up through an intake line, and plug the the afm with a plug from home depot. listen for leaks. as has been said, you probably have an vacuum leak. It really doesn't take to big of a leak to make your car not run/run like ****. a throttle cable would not cause your car to bog out and die.

 

check your turbo intake duct, that area gets pretty hot and the stock elbow tends to crack and leak enough air to cause the AFM door to slap shut after initial startup causing the fuel pump to shut down.

 

I checked around it last night and it did feel a little melted on the TID, not sure if theres a crack or melted hole, ill go check right now

 

pull it all the way off, it is hard to see all the way around where it meets the turbo so it's best to just pull it off and inspect it. just be careful when pulling it off since alot of the time they are extremely brittle.

 

sounds like time to upgrade. . . 3" aluminium TID

 

I was thinking the same thing

Oh, i just checked it, there isnt any cracks or anything, but the end where it meets the turbo is melted and a little goo-ey. Ill post pics if i ever find out how. Also there was 2 small holes (the size of a cue tip end) on the TID that was just left open. Can that be where my problem lyes??? As well as the melted part??

 

check your atmospheric pressure sensor...if it's faulty or if the hose got knocked off...it'll make your engine idle rough or erratically...to the point where it stalls...

 

The atmospheric pressure sensor is either in the cabin (S4) or in the ECU (S5), and doesn't have a hose. I'm guessing you mean the manifold pressure sensor.

A faulty sensor won't cause this but a disconnected vac line will. He did say he checked the hoses though...

 

Thanks guys.. im going to try everything ppl mention... trying to get my car to rotary fest =)

 

your TID should be completely sealed, any leaks could cause the AFM to shut after startup and kill the fuel pump so plug off the holes or fabricate a new TID. normally there is a BOV recirculation hole and one for crankcase pressure to vent into the intake, if you have those bypassed or vented externally then plug those holes.

 

ok, ill order some couplers for the TID so i can make my own since i have sum 3" metal pipes laying around. Hope this solves the problem. Any other ideas are still welcome.

Thanks!!

 

Ok, so i pluged the leaks while im waiting for the couplers... I tighten the throttle cable screw, tightened all the couplers/clamps and it idles a lot better. It now jumps between 800 and 1200. I just realized the BAC screw was missing, can i replace that with another normal screw? (if so, what size and length)
Heres the tricky part, every time i engine brake the car to slow it down, the car dyes when i press on the cluth at low RPMs... but if i shift it to nuetral and let it roll to the stop itll be a little better.... any ideas???

Thanks