and I don't just mean the injectors.. Do you see the intercooler, manifold, etc etc?

The reason I ask, is there have been people who have been sold a 'turbo' car, who didn't know better, and find out later that they are not turbo.

 

well, its dark right now, but the car was running when i got it, and i drove it, I saw the turbo and the intercooler, defenately turbo, started spooling at about 2900-3000 rpms all the way to 7K rpms....

 

ok

I wasnt trying to be an ***.. just making sure

 

peyman becareful with supposebly rx7-gurus thers very few out there.... there people that know there **** and theres some that act like they know there **** but becareful is all i can say make shure he know what hes doing not some young kid who wants to learn to take apart rotarys on your car....if you need anything you can pm i would suggest doing it yourself if you even wanted to call me pm and i can give you a step by step on how to do it....
TwEaK

 

so what should i do to the injectors if they leak? Is there anyplace i can send them to get them fully rebuilt (new seals etc)?

 

Ok, thanks for the heads up! The guy that gave me his phone number said he has owned rx7's before, but not a turbo one, but i have never met him in person. I will go see what kind of person he is first, and if i dont get a positive vibe off of him i wont let him touch it.

My father wants me to rather find a shop to do it for me, that way it will be in safe hands, compared to some guy working on it in his yard....

 

i would like to also add that the guy said that he could make me a fuel cut off switch so the car wont flood everytime i cut it off, but he said its like a short cut, not permanent solution....whats your opinion on this? Wouldnt i need to get new injectors anyways if they are not performing like they should?

 

it is true it is a shortcut and its not a permanent solution i have one on my car but its there for security reasons not to use to start the car all depends i would install a fuel kill switch and also send the injectors to get cleaned....you dont want to rely on just the switch
TwEaK

 

if your smelling gas-DONT START IT!!

its probably your pulsation damper(on the fuel rail)leaking fuel into your engine bay. it WILL get hot and it WILL catch on fire.
if you can find an S5(89-92)fuel rail in good condition, i would suggest swapping that out, as the later models dont have the leaking problem that the S4 does.
i would also suggest flushing/bleeding your cooling system.
good luck!!

 

heres a link to a few things you can learn if you ever need an engine rebuild i would suggest Kevin Landers heres a link to his site and some tech info you can do for the pulsation damper and other like the fuel kill switch..... if your car is a 1987-1988 its an S4 if its an 1989-1991 its an S5 check it out alot to learn here http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ go to the tech section
TwEaK

 

Great website TwEaK, thanks, I just have one more question.

I do not know which fuse to pull for the unflooding procedure because my car doesnt have the fuse box lid, and so I was wondering which one it is. Just tell me which fuse or fuses counting from the headlights to the taillights, and how many amps are they so i can double check....
Thanks everybody, you all have been very helpful!!

 

if im correct its the third one or 2nd one dam im not shure on that one i dont have the fusebox lid cover either =/ i just know cause mine is yellow
TwEaK

 

how about just pull the 2nd and 3rd since you''re not sure?

I'm thinking about making a kill switch, would this really keep it from flooding? Would I get poor gas mileage and performance if my injectors leak anyways?

 

it does keep it from flooding but doesnt hurt gas milage and not shure about performance but if it does im shure its barely noticable
TwEAK

 

i finally got to it and did the heavily flooded unflooding procedure and it worked! The car still overheats and I dont know where the bleeder is for the coolant, so if anyone could PLEASE take a picture of where the bleeder screw is so i can bleed the coolant and hopefully my problems will be solved.....

Please do it asap!!!

 

NEVER MIND! I found the little plastic bleeder screw....

 

change the thermostat!!! it costs 3 bucks for a new one, it takes 10 minutes, what have you got to lose?

 

yeah, i just did the bleeding but it still overheats.

 

Hmmm...nobody else noticed...

Whatever you got did not come that way from the Mazda dealer.

So is this a Turbo II model with the top cut off?

Or is this a stock convertible with a turbo conversion?

Got pics?

You sure it's even a turbo - 13BT - engine?


-Ted

 

ReTed is always on top of his game =) yea peyman find that info out and then get back to us hehe that changes things....
TwEaK

 

PEYMAN whats up? look man dont play with the over heating thing man rotaries do not like that at all . spend the money and take it to a radiator shop and have them flush it.It might be crap in there that an off the shelf flush wont get out.plus if its not flowing properly a shop can tell. by the way is a stock radiator or after market? man i fooled around with my 7 trying to solve the overheating witch i never did took it to a shop and he said it wasnt flowing right. all that fooling around probobly caused my water seals to go (lots of white smoke)o yeah and if the rad is gone get u a koyo or what ever the aluminum rads cost about the same as a stock one and cool beter. for got to mention thAT LIVING IN NC u probobly use well water and that is not good either i mean it works but its got a lot of that red clay and stuff in it not as clean as city water.

 

wow, i had no idea there was not such thing as factory turbo convertible.
I'm 100% sure its turbo...cant mistake something like that....

In that case (wow, i'm totally shocked right now) its a convertible with a turbo conversion, because it has a factory convertible button inside for opening and closing the the top and yes, its a real convertible, nothing ghetto looking.

I guess its a turbo conversion then.....wow, i hope it has an upgraded turbo but the intercooler is the factory style sitting on top there for the hood scoop.
Oh ****, that also explains why the car is black and the hood is red, he took the hood off the turbo car......! It has factory light weight BBS rims...15".

So is this a bad thing or a good thing? what are the pro's and con's of a turbo conversion? If it is a conversion from a s5, does that mean i have more power than a factory turbo s4?

My camera is not here right now, i'll have it back the 19th so I'll take a **** load of pictures for yall!!

The car is in a shop right now getting the fuel regulator changed, which was causing the flooding problem, as soon as I get it back, I'll check the coolant issue.

So where is the bleeder screw for the coolant? The one I found was sitting on the side right under the radatior cap, is that the right one?

 

bleeder screw is on the radiator, right where the hose that comes from the cap connects up, on the side facing towards the headlight.

yes, assuming they did a good job, turbo vert is a good thing. factory turbo engines made significantly more power than the NA, and you probably have a turbo drivetrain, too which is much tougher than non. and hey, who wouldnt want a vert.

pat

 

where in NC are you from?

 

wow, sounds nice to be unique like that, turbo vert...yes sir!

I am located in Sanford, NC, about 40 minutes from Raleigh....too bad you're located way out there lol!

I'm in a car club here in Sanford, and our club has about 15 cars in it...one of my friends in my club likes my s4 so much, he wants to even trade his 94 integra w/ 98' engine and transmission (80K miles), lambo doors, carbonfiber hood, white 16" racing rims w/ chrome lip, angel eye headlights, cat back exhaust, intake, shortthrow shifter, cd player....lol....if i trade him, i'll win money on the deal, but now that i know i'm unique with a turbo vert, i think i'll stick with speed over looks. His car is worth IMO around $4700.