Non-stock power window switch replacment
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 501
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From: Lawrenceville,Georgia,U.S.
Non-stock power window switch replacment
Doing a search (Yes, I did a search! 
) reveals 2 alternatives for generic replacement power window switches. One is Newark Electronics, for the Eaton NGR20051BN00N NGR rocker switch. The schematic diagram, however, shows no outside connection to the center pad, which would make it impossible to use if one insists on the passenger side switch working (Possible dual short, ground-12V and 12V-ground if drivers and passengers switch for the passenger window are operated at the same time). Switch schematic looks like this:
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Shown in UP position. Center pin does not have a number, so I assume it has no external connection. Is this correct, or is there a way to jumper this pin for an external connection or to one of the outside pins (the pin I use for ground would work just great.
)
Also found Autoloc, they have 2 non-illuminated switches (1 and 6). I do not know how their pins are wired, and they have not responded to an e-mail asking them how they are wired. Has anyone ordered them, or found out how they are wired? If so, do they have a connection in the middle position, making them usable for the passenger window? Thanks all!
Irv, Keith's dad
) reveals 2 alternatives for generic replacement power window switches. One is Newark Electronics, for the Eaton NGR20051BN00N NGR rocker switch. The schematic diagram, however, shows no outside connection to the center pad, which would make it impossible to use if one insists on the passenger side switch working (Possible dual short, ground-12V and 12V-ground if drivers and passengers switch for the passenger window are operated at the same time). Switch schematic looks like this:* * *
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*
Shown in UP position. Center pin does not have a number, so I assume it has no external connection. Is this correct, or is there a way to jumper this pin for an external connection or to one of the outside pins (the pin I use for ground would work just great.
)Also found Autoloc, they have 2 non-illuminated switches (1 and 6). I do not know how their pins are wired, and they have not responded to an e-mail asking them how they are wired. Has anyone ordered them, or found out how they are wired? If so, do they have a connection in the middle position, making them usable for the passenger window? Thanks all!
Irv, Keith's dad
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 24
From: Rohnert Park CA
That rest position would have to be for the ground on the driver side, unless you just used two relays (which would solve the current/burn out issue anyway.
heres the factory layout:
heres the factory layout:
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,594
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Why not just disable the passenger door switch and control them both from the drivers side? If the passenger wants their window down; they'll just have to ask nicely! hehehe
I rigged up a 4 button system on my old 626 and I had to warn everyone who road in the car to never push more than two of the buttons at the same time, or none of the windows would work. Well; when you tell people they can't press those fun looking buttons on the door; they just want to do it more. Long story short; I ditched that system shorty after.
I rigged up a 4 button system on my old 626 and I had to warn everyone who road in the car to never push more than two of the buttons at the same time, or none of the windows would work. Well; when you tell people they can't press those fun looking buttons on the door; they just want to do it more. Long story short; I ditched that system shorty after.
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