totallimmortal

To all of you who told me I cold not get a cold idle with no thermowax you were wrong. As I mentioned My TB had no pasagese for coolant as everyone speaks of, I don't know why maybe an early s4 thing??? But I found a cracked vacuum hose, and replaced it. Now with the ported TB and TB mod with no thermowax, my car Idles rock solid at 750 with no stutters of anything. I also got rid of the stock plastic/rubber air intake tube and replaced it with an Acura RSX Injen Intake, it fits pretty nice, I'll take pics soon.

pip

Thermowax doesnt really have anything to do with your idle after 30 seconds, but I would like to see how that intake fits.

totallimmortal

yes but before People told me that i would have to sit there and rev my engine until it was warm

HAILERS

Yes, the thermowax does indeed have something to do with the idle after thirty seconds. It's actually 17 seconds that the bac and the air bypass solenoid open for a rapid warmup of the pre cat. Then if the water temp is cold, the thermowax device holds the throttle plates open a touch til the thermowax piston falls off its cam and returns the throttle plates to the rigged position.

I've never seen a series four that did not originally have the thermowax device, and I own a very early series four, 1986 car. The lack of one is not mentioned in the 86 fsm.

ddub

I was the same way. When I first did the TB mod, ported manifolds, and removed the 6pi actuators (after adjusting the idle of course) I had no problem with idle when I first started up the car. But then I went and played with the idle some more a month or two later, and now I have to hold the revs for about 10-15 seconds on startup otherwise it wont idle well. Oh well, not that big of a deal, some day I'll figure how I got it to work like before.

WAYNE88N/A

I'd be more concerned with keeping the BAC than losing the thermowax...No biggie...

totallimmortal- how's your idle now with a good sized load on the engine/ alternator (head lights,blower motor, that kind of stuff)

ddub

I know with mine the BAC wasn't working anyways, so I didn't see a point in it. Plus I thought the BAC was more for P/S and A/C, and since I ditched those it wasn't too big of a deal. But I can say that when the headlights are on, stereo is up, and the air is put to full blast on the logicon, my idle doesn't drop very much at all. There is some drop, but not a whole lot.

totallimmortal

Well about the thermowax, its not that i didn't have it its just that in all the pics i saw when you tak off the thermowax there was little passages that i was told coolant flow through. mine was just flat metal there. And idle drops with accessories I have a 600w stereo, with that on and headlight and blower idle is about 680 but steady. My car has no ac or ps its completely base model

HAILERS

Yes, the thermowax does indeed have something to do with the idle after thirty seconds. It's actually 17 seconds that the bac and the air bypass solenoid open for a rapid warmup of the pre cat. Then if the water temp is cold, the thermowax device holds the throttle plates open a touch til the thermowax piston falls off its cam and returns the throttle plates to the rigged position.

I've never seen a series four that did not originally have the thermowax device, and I own a very early series four, 1986 car. The lack of one is not mentioned in the 86 fsm.