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I bought a 88 Mazda rx7 gxl
every thing worked fine electrical except the passenger window.
Only drivers side would lower the passenger window. I bought a used switch on ebay.
Plugged it in ( passenger side), I lost the clock, AC ,electric mirrors. and use of passenger window ( this was in the winter)

Now it is warm I thought I would try again. I played with the wires with a volt meter.
I found if I grounded the ground wire going into the door lock (passenger side) and also the red wire going to the window motor the driver could lower window again, ground the green wire the driver could raise the window.


Fixed the AC and mirror ( just by lifting the console and pushing the plugs in better.)

But now I have no tail lights at all. no side lights , dome lights or dash lights.
all fuses are good. replaced all with new.
web searching I found this first.

http://www.johnr.com/rx7faq/faq3.html ( cold solder in CPU )
OK great ... I can solder ... ( I build arcade cabinets for a hobbie , hacked many a game pads and moded PS1's )

I did this. still no working lights .

Ok .. I must have messed it up? 15 watt gun and very fine solder.

Found a junk yard with a 86 Mazda rx7. bought that CPU ( I pulled it) gave me a chance to pull the boards out and inspect them. They looked new. no cold solder joints ( all nice and shiny and no leaking acid)

Still no luck. searched some more. ( Internet) found this forum ( nice forum by the way)
Hit the search right away , most were not my problems but I found this
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showt...=&threadid=6939

Nice right up Heffrey! I thought you had my problem nailed.
I pulled the harness and mine was a bit darker there but not burned just tanned a bit.
Went to the junk yard again and bought the harness and switch. Still no lights.

List of working parts
head lights , Radio, Equalizer, Hand break light works ( dash were clock is . All those lights work except clock) mirrors work, AC works, ( did get my cruise working now thanks to a new switch from the junkyard)

non working
security light, door locks, dash lights (speed meter, tack light) dome and map lights , all tail lights and all side lights. turn signal ( can hear them clicking just no light) Emergency flashers. cig lighter (cig lighter never did work from the day I bought the car)

Long post for my first post but I have learned from the Arcade forums the more info a person gives the better off on help I can get.

I can not help much with you guys on Mazda questions but I can help with Arcades and a program called MAME if this interest any one here. NOT SPAMING all free programs from Internet. Just trying to offer some help in return for help here

 

CPU has nothing what so ever to do with the parking lights (or dome lights- or map lights or speedo, or passengers power door lock)... don't know why you are barking up that tree. And toss in the fact that only the absolute worst blown out cold solder joints are visable to the naked eye

Have you checked you fuses??? Do you have power at the light switch on the white/green??? How about the Red/black when the switch is on (of course the wht/grn must have power first).

Sounds like a blown room fuse and blown tail fuse.

 

All fuse's have been replaced . (all)
Thanks for the pic. Should help a bunch. Printing it now.
Been looking for something like this.
Wonder if it is my fuse box?
Were did you get the pic? I can not read it. to fuzzy.
Any one have a link to wire and fuse diagrams?

 

There's a free online factory service manual with wiring diagrams on this site. Look in the FAQ

You NEED to pull the plug off the light switch and take a meter to the White/Green wire and see if you have battery voltage there ...or NOT. NOt? Fuse is busted. Good? Bad switch mostlikely. Ohm out the switch from where the White/Green connects to the Switch and to where the Red/Black connects to the switch and then make the switch .....switch. Continuity should come and go. If not.....bad switch. R square that sucker.

You forgot to mention your glove box light does not work also. Or is that *also does not work*?

 

I just got back from oral surgery
I pulled the plug and got -0.10 volts. ( I hate this meter I have) I also checked my old switch . (ohm ) (could not get to the one pluged into car ) I checked the old one just to do it. after I recover from surgery I will check the new plug.
maybe I puled a bad harnes and good switch from car and put in a good harnes and bad switch.
I will try again Monday. taking the weekend off. gone fishing
oh... glove box light don't work.

thanks for the help . makes me fell better just talikng to some one who knows what I am talking about.

 

Here's a jpg attached of the light switch.

It does not show the tail lights. It does not matter. See the line to the right where it says (Tail Lights Thisaway*.

There is also the 15amp fuse for the light switch. It's the ILLUMINATION fuse IF I remember right It in turn gets fed from a 60amp fuse in the engine bay. BTN fusse, I THINK. I forget.

You want to pull the plug off the light switch and see if there is battery voltage on the WG, white/green wire. IF not, then back track towards the Room fuse and the 60amp fuse.

If battery voltage is on the WG wire, then jumper the WG to the RG, red/green on the plug and the lights WILL come on, indicating the switch is kaput.

IF you've swapped a light switch harness, make sure it came from the same series car. I think they're different.

 

Yep, they are different, but the light switch parts are the same, just the high beam and turn signal part is different for each series.

 

Here's another way of looking at it. By the way, if the horn honks, the sixty amp fuse is probably ok.

 

no the horn don't work.
I will print out the JPEGS.
My Brother in-law is back from Vacation ( thank god! )
I can see i am in over my head. I will show him what is up soon and all print outs
( He is a mechanic. at a garage here in KY.)
The parts looked the same. ( The parts from the 86 Mazda rx7 fit my 88 rx7) only difference I saw was the seats. It did fix my cruise control.

I did find out at the junk yard the motors are differant? becouse my rx7 is auto trany and the junk one is standard. I found this odd.

 

you most likey have a dry joint in the bottom main fusebox in the engine bay where the 60 amp fuse is. Some times these fuse looks ok but thay are crook.

Michael Smith

 

you my friend are a genius.
It WAS the 60 amp fuse. In the engine compartment

 

my hole car is ripped apart becuse of no lights i pulled the cpu and dash..im gonna check the 60 amp when i get home from school.if its that im gonna hate my self.

and on top of that i ordered a new cpu 358+shipping
i kept hearin a ticking noise but its comeing from the cpu so i might need a new one ne ways.

and when i replaced all my fuses in the kick pannle i got turn signals and hazords on the right and not left. right worked normal left went tick tick....but still no hazords and dash....ill check the 60amp

 

Think about it first. That angle does not compute. There is not a seperate fuse for the left/right. If one side works, then the fuse is good.

If this is a series four, you'd pull the seven socket plug off the CPU and jumper the Black wire with a Blue stripe (BL) to the Green wire with a black stripe (GB) and see if the lights on the left side light up or not. If the light up, maybe it is the CPU. If they don't....not CPU. Your paying too much for a CPU.

 

thanks all for the great help.
to break it down.
old cpu was bad. ( clock is working now)
when this did not work for the lights I did check the fuses under the hood. just to be on the safe side. ( never dreamed those would do my lights as well )
( I had put the 60 amp fuse in a blank spot by mistake)

wire harnes was bad. BUT when I put in a good one the 60 amp fuse was in wrong location)

from there on I was fighting a lost battle. Once the 60 amp fuse was mentioned I thought I had better check them again. as soon as I took the cover off I saw my mistacke. switched the fuse to proper spot and BOOM a few beeps and I was all lights.

total cost $75.00 but I got my clock back, my AC back, My electrick mirrors back.
cruise controll back, a new spare jack, replaced driver inner door handel, and a spare set of chocks also a spare lug wrench ( gota love those chocks)

a weeks worth of work. so all in all not to bad I think. I learned a great deal thinks all

I have not down loaded my spell checker. Just reformated my PC ( nasty bug) normally I can fix all nasty's the web has to attack with but this one was better than me addaware and spybot got slaped silly not to mention windows

I still need to fix pasanger window but not ready to attack that yet. That is were all my problems started in the winter

 

I have rebuilt S4 CPUs with twice the Mazda warrenty available on my website for under $50.

And if your problem is just turn signals I have rebuilt turn signal circuit boards for the CPU for only $35 with a 6 month warrenty (again twice the Mazda time).

But either way, the dash and parking lights have nothing to do with the CPU.