No start issue (on going)
06-08-17, 11:21 PM
#1
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No start issue (on going)
im going try to put all the info on my car here so i dont have to go back and forth answering a bunch of questions.
1991 rx7 na. It was a barn find, i completed the auto to manual swap, removed the emissions, new fuewl pump, new ecu, redid all the intake gaskets and blocked off the vaccum lines. Before i did the emissions removal, the car was having an extremely shakely or even non existent idle, i am sure its not a vaccum leak. I have no tested the tps yet as im waiting for the banzai tester to come in since its somewhat difficult with the multimeter. Im at a loss here, i thought it was the ecu but nothing im getting spark and fuel and my maf seems to be working im not exactly sure how to test it. I dont have the funds to take this to a rotary shop since the guys around me charge 200 bucks just to look at it and get mad when you dont want do upgrades. It is my daily so i want it running perfectly. Any help is appreciated, i might have missed a few things but thats what i think is relavant right now.
1991 rx7 na. It was a barn find, i completed the auto to manual swap, removed the emissions, new fuewl pump, new ecu, redid all the intake gaskets and blocked off the vaccum lines. Before i did the emissions removal, the car was having an extremely shakely or even non existent idle, i am sure its not a vaccum leak. I have no tested the tps yet as im waiting for the banzai tester to come in since its somewhat difficult with the multimeter. Im at a loss here, i thought it was the ecu but nothing im getting spark and fuel and my maf seems to be working im not exactly sure how to test it. I dont have the funds to take this to a rotary shop since the guys around me charge 200 bucks just to look at it and get mad when you dont want do upgrades. It is my daily so i want it running perfectly. Any help is appreciated, i might have missed a few things but thats what i think is relavant right now.
06-09-17, 09:33 AM
#3
rotorhole
did you even ask why it was parked in the first place, and did you believe them?
$200 for a diagnosis sometimes is a deal, when how much have you sunk into it already? you make them sound like thieves.
i'm with lduley, i would have started with a compression test.
$200 for a diagnosis sometimes is a deal, when how much have you sunk into it already? you make them sound like thieves.
i'm with lduley, i would have started with a compression test.
Last edited by insightful; 06-09-17 at 09:36 AM.
06-09-17, 11:52 AM
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it was more of the guy was mad i didnt want to bridgeport it gut it and make it one of his drag cars. When i asked him for basic repair work and maintenance he was uninterested and always told me he was busy or just didnt answer. Thats beside the point, my compression numbers are well within range. Its a really long story why it was parked haha according the original owner he cheated on his wife and she stole the car as revenge and he just took the insurance money from it and didnt touch it. I told all the measures before starting it because it sat for so long. But the engine was not seized.
06-09-17, 01:42 PM
#5
rotorhole
the guy you found doesn't sound like someone you should trust to do any diagnostic work anyways, doesn't mean all rotary specialists are like that. there's more bad "rotary experts" out there than good ones.
have you had the injectors serviced? after a long period of sitting they like to stick closed.
IMO, you should have left the engine stock while trying to get it running properly. about 75% of people if not more can't even do an emissions delete on a well running car and not have issues afterwards. so if there was still a problem, it is probably now compounded even further. and i mean no offense in that, it is merely that there is plenty of places for vacuum leaks to occur. especially when trying to block off parts, a lot of leak points simply get overlooked.
have you had the injectors serviced? after a long period of sitting they like to stick closed.
IMO, you should have left the engine stock while trying to get it running properly. about 75% of people if not more can't even do an emissions delete on a well running car and not have issues afterwards. so if there was still a problem, it is probably now compounded even further. and i mean no offense in that, it is merely that there is plenty of places for vacuum leaks to occur. especially when trying to block off parts, a lot of leak points simply get overlooked.
Last edited by insightful; 06-09-17 at 01:48 PM.
06-09-17, 01:49 PM
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the guy you found doesn't sound like someone you should trust to do any diagnostic work anyways, doesn't mean all rotary specialists are like that. there's more bad "rotary experts" out there than good ones.
have you had the injectors serviced? after a long period of sitting they like to stick closed.
have you had the injectors serviced? after a long period of sitting they like to stick closed.
06-09-17, 01:54 PM
#7
rotorhole
n327 pressure sensor?
something is wrong here, because that is not the correct pressure sensor for your S5 car in the first place. the S5 non turbo uses an N350 pressure sensor. either the engine has been swapped or i suspect a few other things are amiss.
something is wrong here, because that is not the correct pressure sensor for your S5 car in the first place. the S5 non turbo uses an N350 pressure sensor. either the engine has been swapped or i suspect a few other things are amiss.
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06-10-17, 06:39 AM
#8
i never bothered testing TPS with a light, always just did by feel.
turn the screw a 1/4 turn., dont start going crazy wailing away on the screw, a tiny bit makes a big difference.
turn screw, see if helps, if its worse, turn the other way
let it get hot, check again
but first you should check compression, make sure you are at least starting with the basics being good, you also say the car was starting and idling good "before", so I would go over every single thing I did and look for either incorrect parts or something not plugged back in, check to insure firing order is correct because you said you retimed it, vac lines are correctly connected, etc
operator error were the number one cause of "non-running" rx7s I used to buy, sift thru, and sell as perfectly running cars
turn the screw a 1/4 turn., dont start going crazy wailing away on the screw, a tiny bit makes a big difference.
turn screw, see if helps, if its worse, turn the other way
let it get hot, check again
but first you should check compression, make sure you are at least starting with the basics being good, you also say the car was starting and idling good "before", so I would go over every single thing I did and look for either incorrect parts or something not plugged back in, check to insure firing order is correct because you said you retimed it, vac lines are correctly connected, etc
operator error were the number one cause of "non-running" rx7s I used to buy, sift thru, and sell as perfectly running cars
06-13-17, 06:42 PM
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i never bothered testing TPS with a light, always just did by feel.
turn the screw a 1/4 turn., dont start going crazy wailing away on the screw, a tiny bit makes a big difference.
turn screw, see if helps, if its worse, turn the other way
let it get hot, check again
but first you should check compression, make sure you are at least starting with the basics being good, you also say the car was starting and idling good "before", so I would go over every single thing I did and look for either incorrect parts or something not plugged back in, check to insure firing order is correct because you said you retimed it, vac lines are correctly connected, etc
operator error were the number one cause of "non-running" rx7s I used to buy, sift thru, and sell as perfectly running cars
turn the screw a 1/4 turn., dont start going crazy wailing away on the screw, a tiny bit makes a big difference.
turn screw, see if helps, if its worse, turn the other way
let it get hot, check again
but first you should check compression, make sure you are at least starting with the basics being good, you also say the car was starting and idling good "before", so I would go over every single thing I did and look for either incorrect parts or something not plugged back in, check to insure firing order is correct because you said you retimed it, vac lines are correctly connected, etc
operator error were the number one cause of "non-running" rx7s I used to buy, sift thru, and sell as perfectly running cars
06-13-17, 08:58 PM
#10
rotorhole
a red glowing cat means one of these
you have a blown rotor dumping raw fuel into the exhaust
you have a stuck open or leaking injector causing a rich issue
you have a clogged cat causing excessive backpressure
i suspect the first to be true.
you have a blown rotor dumping raw fuel into the exhaust
you have a stuck open or leaking injector causing a rich issue
you have a clogged cat causing excessive backpressure
i suspect the first to be true.
06-13-17, 09:02 PM
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new injectors
and i think its a clogged cat or my timing is off
06-13-17, 09:17 PM
#12
rotorhole
well, another possibility is a faulty leading coil, fouled leading spark plugs or retarded ignition timing.
easiest place to start is pull the lead plugs and lay them on the strut tower and crank the engine, no spark then you know your issue.
easiest place to start is pull the lead plugs and lay them on the strut tower and crank the engine, no spark then you know your issue.
06-13-17, 10:03 PM
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your username deff checks out lol, i tested the spark on leading and trailing, i had a weird spark pattern in L2 and it was orange so this could be my issue.
06-14-17, 03:56 PM
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i reset my timing and it ran a thousand times smoother but with the maf unplugged. It died on its own after a minute or so im thinking i might still have a vaccum leak or some sort but ill replace the maf first and see what happens
06-14-17, 06:00 PM
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afm yes, it runs with it unplugged. The second its plugged in it dies or if it start it with it plugged in it starts and dies right away
06-14-17, 07:09 PM
#19
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Since the car starts and runs with the afm unplugged, there might be a wiring issue to address. Rather than just part slinging, which in this case would be expensive, check the wiring and make sure something isn't crossed, or grounding out. Also, check the afm with what the manual says and make sure you aren't disposing of a part for no reason.
06-14-17, 07:22 PM
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Since the car starts and runs with the afm unplugged, there might be a wiring issue to address. Rather than just part slinging, which in this case would be expensive, check the wiring and make sure something isn't crossed, or grounding out. Also, check the afm with what the manual says and make sure you aren't disposing of a part for no reason.