No start issue (on going)
im going try to put all the info on my car here so i dont have to go back and forth answering a bunch of questions.
1991 rx7 na. It was a barn find, i completed the auto to manual swap, removed the emissions, new fuewl pump, new ecu, redid all the intake gaskets and blocked off the vaccum lines. Before i did the emissions removal, the car was having an extremely shakely or even non existent idle, i am sure its not a vaccum leak. I have no tested the tps yet as im waiting for the banzai tester to come in since its somewhat difficult with the multimeter. Im at a loss here, i thought it was the ecu but nothing im getting spark and fuel and my maf seems to be working im not exactly sure how to test it. I dont have the funds to take this to a rotary shop since the guys around me charge 200 bucks just to look at it and get mad when you dont want do upgrades. It is my daily so i want it running perfectly. Any help is appreciated, i might have missed a few things but thats what i think is relavant right now. |
Have you compression checked it?
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did you even ask why it was parked in the first place, and did you believe them?
$200 for a diagnosis sometimes is a deal, when how much have you sunk into it already? you make them sound like thieves. i'm with lduley, i would have started with a compression test. |
Originally Posted by insightful
(Post 12190475)
did you even ask why it was parked in the first place, and did you believe them?
$200 for a diagnosis sometimes is a deal, when how much have you sunk into it already? you make them sound like thieves. i'm with lduley, i would have started with a compression test. |
the guy you found doesn't sound like someone you should trust to do any diagnostic work anyways, doesn't mean all rotary specialists are like that. there's more bad "rotary experts" out there than good ones.
have you had the injectors serviced? after a long period of sitting they like to stick closed. IMO, you should have left the engine stock while trying to get it running properly. about 75% of people if not more can't even do an emissions delete on a well running car and not have issues afterwards. so if there was still a problem, it is probably now compounded even further. and i mean no offense in that, it is merely that there is plenty of places for vacuum leaks to occur. especially when trying to block off parts, a lot of leak points simply get overlooked. |
Originally Posted by insightful
(Post 12190534)
the guy you found doesn't sound like someone you should trust to do any diagnostic work anyways, doesn't mean all rotary specialists are like that. there's more bad "rotary experts" out there than good ones.
have you had the injectors serviced? after a long period of sitting they like to stick closed. |
n327 pressure sensor?
something is wrong here, because that is not the correct pressure sensor for your S5 car in the first place. the S5 non turbo uses an N350 pressure sensor. either the engine has been swapped or i suspect a few other things are amiss. |
i never bothered testing TPS with a light, always just did by feel.
turn the screw a 1/4 turn., dont start going crazy wailing away on the screw, a tiny bit makes a big difference. turn screw, see if helps, if its worse, turn the other way let it get hot, check again but first you should check compression, make sure you are at least starting with the basics being good, you also say the car was starting and idling good "before", so I would go over every single thing I did and look for either incorrect parts or something not plugged back in, check to insure firing order is correct because you said you retimed it, vac lines are correctly connected, etc operator error were the number one cause of "non-running" rx7s I used to buy, sift thru, and sell as perfectly running cars |
Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
(Post 12190707)
i never bothered testing TPS with a light, always just did by feel.
turn the screw a 1/4 turn., dont start going crazy wailing away on the screw, a tiny bit makes a big difference. turn screw, see if helps, if its worse, turn the other way let it get hot, check again but first you should check compression, make sure you are at least starting with the basics being good, you also say the car was starting and idling good "before", so I would go over every single thing I did and look for either incorrect parts or something not plugged back in, check to insure firing order is correct because you said you retimed it, vac lines are correctly connected, etc operator error were the number one cause of "non-running" rx7s I used to buy, sift thru, and sell as perfectly running cars |
a red glowing cat means one of these
you have a blown rotor dumping raw fuel into the exhaust you have a stuck open or leaking injector causing a rich issue you have a clogged cat causing excessive backpressure i suspect the first to be true. |
Originally Posted by insightful
(Post 12191828)
a red glowing cat means one of these
you have a blown rotor dumping raw fuel into the exhaust you have a stuck open or leaking injector causing a rich issue you have a clogged cat causing excessive backpressure i suspect the first to be true. new injectors and i think its a clogged cat or my timing is off |
well, another possibility is a faulty leading coil, fouled leading spark plugs or retarded ignition timing.
easiest place to start is pull the lead plugs and lay them on the strut tower and crank the engine, no spark then you know your issue. |
Originally Posted by insightful
(Post 12191834)
well, another possibility is a faulty leading coil, fouled leading spark plugs or retarded ignition timing.
easiest place to start is pull the lead plugs and lay them on the strut tower and crank the engine, no spark then you know your issue. |
unlikely, the leading coil is a waste spark unit so if one plug is firing then they both will be. try checking the timing.
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Originally Posted by insightful
(Post 12191940)
unlikely, the leading coil is a waste spark unit so if one plug is firing then they both will be. try checking the timing.
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you mean AFM? if so, you can't unplug it with the engine running, as it is directly what the ECU uses to determine how much fuel the engine needs.
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Originally Posted by insightful
(Post 12192107)
you mean AFM? if so, you can't unplug it with the engine running, as it is directly what the ECU uses to determine how much fuel the engine needs.
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ah ok, then yeah try to get a hold of a good afm.
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Since the car starts and runs with the afm unplugged, there might be a wiring issue to address. Rather than just part slinging, which in this case would be expensive, check the wiring and make sure something isn't crossed, or grounding out. Also, check the afm with what the manual says and make sure you aren't disposing of a part for no reason.
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Originally Posted by professionalpyroman
(Post 12192129)
Since the car starts and runs with the afm unplugged, there might be a wiring issue to address. Rather than just part slinging, which in this case would be expensive, check the wiring and make sure something isn't crossed, or grounding out. Also, check the afm with what the manual says and make sure you aren't disposing of a part for no reason.
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