RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

swap out the trailing coil, put more atf into it and start it up.

satch

iTrader: (1)

There are two connectors Orange in color located above and to the right of the ECU. You might want to make sure these connections are secure as they should be.

stuwk1

everything by and around the ecu is plugged up where its sopposed to be

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

if you're basing the no spark issue on the tach, that doesn't mean that the leading isn't firing. in your original post you mentioned the tach was dead but got the car running, which means you likely were just running on the leading coils. the tach signal comes from the trailing coil pack.

stuwk1

Every time I turn the key even with the plug out the car and on my windshield it fires once. It also fires once when I turn the key off. this is only from the LEADING coil.

stuwk1

Ah that would make sense I'm getting no spark from the trailing ONLY now. But was before getting nothing at all. I checked the trailing coils for resistant and it checked fine, but is there a way to check the harness connectors on the trailing coils? Both coils were in a working car not even a month ago.

stuwk1

Anyone know what this is or where it soppose to be pluggeD? found it dangling down there in all those wires. This is by the driver side main relay and trailing coil area.

satch

iTrader: (1)

There is a single wire which is Black and short in length which connects to nothing. There is one each at both coils. Jumper a wire from one to the other. This will get the tach to work off of the leading coil. If the leading coil is working at all then you'll be able to tell by just watching the tach signal.

stuwk1

With everything connected including the trailing coil when i bridge those two wires i DO have a tach signal and WAS able to get spark from both coils.. But the car will not stay running.

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satch

iTrader: (1)

You can jumper the fuel check connector and try starting the car.

You can try disconnecting the AFM and trying to start the car.

You can check the Water Thermosensor and see what reading you get w/a cold engine and key to on. Pin 2E on an S5.

Or maybe deflood the car and try to start it.

stuwk1

Ok. But hey man I appreciate all the help and patience

stuwk1

Well heres the deal. I plugged up my spare ecu which is a turbo ecu and was able to get spark on all my plugs with my SPARE cas. I was not able to get a signal from either ecu with the cas that is in the car, despite it running last weekend.]

I will be pickiing up the ecu out the motors original car and will be swapping out cas's. Once again thanks for all the help.

stuwk1

It looks like I have some type of other problem now. After replacing ecu's and Cas's i am still having problems.

With the CAS In the car I have no spark/fuel/tach when turning the motor by hand or with the key.

With the CAS OUT The car i can spin the gears on both my spare cas's and get spark fuel and tach readings.

I wrapped the CAS wiring with two seperate layers of aluminum foil and electrical tape after reading I could have interference.

This did not solve the problem so what the hell else is there?

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you get spark and injector firing w/the CAS pulled out and spun w/the key to on then try taking a voltage measurement of the engine w/key to on and key to off and see what you get.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

sounds like a bad ignition switch or main relay kicking off when turning the key due to a wiring issue.

satch

iTrader: (1)

With key to on the B/Y wire at the leading coil should have battery voltage. The B/W wire at the Green check connector by the leading coil should also have battery voltage. Both of these wires should have battery voltage w/key to "start" as well. See if these wires have voltage w/key to on and also at start as there's a chance they do w/key to on, but not at start and this would result in your problem.

stuwk1

I have battery power with it key on and with it cranking at both B/W and B/W wires. It appears that as soon as the CAS is submerged into the front housing it looses its signal. Is it possible that I have a ground problem that is causing this?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

not likely, but possibly bad CAS wiring/connection.