No spark or fuel s4 TII
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No spark or fuel s4 TII
Strange issue. Car ran fine. Cranked it up to move it and it would not crank back up. I tought it was flooded but found its getting no spark or fuel. There is power to the coils and the fuel pump comes on. The starter turns fine. I tested the CAS ohms but nothing when i turn it manualy. Power to ECU and all the grounds are good. No lights at all on the led tester i made formthe diagnotic check plug. Opened the ecu and all looks fine.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
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Found it. There was an emissions plug with exposed prongs grounding to the fender. All better now after three long evenings of troubleshooting. Special thanks to the guys at rtek for helping troubleshoot!
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I lied... So it still has issues. With the afm plugged in i turn the key. Fuel pump comes on but ecu does not (using leds and rtek palm connection to confirm). I unplug the afm and hear a click like a relay. The leds light up and palm connects but the fuel pump cuts off.
Is there a good place to start? btw the car was running fine just pryor with no major changes.
Is there a good place to start? btw the car was running fine just pryor with no major changes.
#5
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W/key to on check the voltage on the Brown/White wire at the TPS as it should read about 5 volts. Wire powers most of the engine sensors including the AFM, TPS and so on.
You also want to check the voltage of the Black/White wire w/key to on at the four wire check connector near the leading coil. Should read 12 volts. This wire powers the ECU. This wire eminates from the four wire plug of the Main Relay. The Black/Yellow wire comes from the same plug and powers the coils. You can also check this wire for 12 volts w/key to on. If both B/W and B/Y do not check out as stated then you have an issue at the Main Relay.
And the fuel pump should not turn on w/key to on unless you have the fuel check connector jumpered or the AFM flapper is opened.
You also want to check the voltage of the Black/White wire w/key to on at the four wire check connector near the leading coil. Should read 12 volts. This wire powers the ECU. This wire eminates from the four wire plug of the Main Relay. The Black/Yellow wire comes from the same plug and powers the coils. You can also check this wire for 12 volts w/key to on. If both B/W and B/Y do not check out as stated then you have an issue at the Main Relay.
And the fuel pump should not turn on w/key to on unless you have the fuel check connector jumpered or the AFM flapper is opened.
Last edited by satch; 06-14-13 at 08:46 PM.
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Relays check out with AFM unplugged but not with it plugged in. I pulled the AFM and checked it via the FSM and I think it is the issue. The first left two prongs (E1 to FC) read continuity with no change with flapper door movement instead of continuity only when open. That may explain the fuel pump being on all the time.
I ordered a refurb AFM that will be here tomorrow and will see if that fixes it.
Thanks
I ordered a refurb AFM that will be here tomorrow and will see if that fixes it.
Thanks
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So the refurb AFM fixed the issue. I am getting an AFM code on my Rtek though and it does not run great or stay at idle. I am doing some research on the AFM code. I know its working BC the fuel pump cuts on when I open the door and of course it starts now.
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I tested the new AFM and the harness per the FSM. Everything checks out except I am getting continuity between pins 2J and 2E on the ECU itself. Can anyone confirm if that is not correct. I think its a short in my ECU after all but not sure.
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