dwb87

iTrader: (22)

I've completed my TII swap quite a while ago. The engine was rebuilt by Kevin Landers at Rotary Resurrection, the turbo rebuilt by BNR, Racing Beat REV TII exhaust, Walbro fuel pump, ACT clutch and flywheel, Koyo radiator, 720cc primary injectors, 1600cc secondary injectors, Apexi Power FC with the Banzai adapter, and FMIC.

I have to get this car running. I've put so much money, time, and effort into it... I'm not about to give up.

I'm having a problem getting it started. I am getting air and fuel, but no spark. The main relay is good, all fuses are good, and the spark plug wires are new. The coils are not sparking at all. From what I'm told, it could possibly be the wiring harness, a bad PFC, or bad coils. I'm not sure at all about the timing and I honestly don't know how to correctly use the multimeter that I have. I need know how to test the coils and wires running to the coils. Does anyone have any other advice for anything else that may need to be tested? Or just any advice in general?

satch

iTrader: (1)

There's a similar post a few posts below yours, but anyway check for battery voltage with key/ to on at the Black/Yellow wire at the leading coil. The wire is part of a two wire plug which is white in color. Disconnect the plug and do the above check.


Set the multimeter to "DCV" and place the red lead of the meter to the B/Y wire and the black meter lead to the negative post of the battery as your ground point. The meter should read 12 volts or so.

Also,make sure the coils are bolted down properly or they won't operate properly.

drifter_sr

iTrader: (2)

ok.. i had this problem with my 13bRE swap.. it is almost similiar.. my coils were not grounded.. your coils have to be grounded.. and if it still doesnt work i ran a wire from coil to coil to a switch 12v. when the switch 12v powers up it will power your coils up and fire.. if my explanation suck then just call me.. ill pm u my number..

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

So, I reattached the leading coils a bit more properly. I connected an extra CAS, turned the key to ON, and listened to a bit of popping as I turned the gear on the CAS. This excited me!... What I found to be very odd was that I found spark in only the L1 and T2 plug wires. I took each spark plug wire off one at a time, watching it either spark or not... I don't understand why only these two wires sparked though.

satch

iTrader: (1)

As far as the leadling coil is concerned, there is only one coil so if one works then the other should. It's possible that there is a grounding out on one side which would prevent it from sparking properly but if there is a grounding problem on one it should result in a light show of sorts.

It's best to check for spark at the bore of the coil for it takes the plug and plug wire out of the equation which helps to narrow things down.

The trailing coil has two coils and the ECU sends a signal on which plug should fire. There is a good link which provides insight to this and I'll try to find it. It deals with the "select signal" which might be your problem here.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/demystifying.html

http://mazdarx7.iougs.com/ignition.shtml (bottom of document)

chatchie

iTrader: (22)

I went nuts for a week with a no spark issue. Satch directed me to a ground I missed, it was a brass prong the drivers inside strut tower that accepts a 6 pin white connector with 5 wires in it. I painted over it and overlooked it on the re-install.

HAILERS

Both LEAD sparkplugs fire at the same time. Do this. Leave all the wires on the sparkplugs.............pull the two sparkplug wires out of the lead COIL assy and just rest them on the coil bore where they get installed.

Key to ON and then spin that spare CAS assy while watching the wires sitting in the lead coils bore. I'm betting you see spark from both and not just one.

I'd forget all together about the trail coil right now. It has squat to do with starting and idling the engine.........unless you have the TRAIL sparkplug wires on backwards, then it'll idle *funny*.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Okay... HAILERS, satch of course you were both correct about the lead coil. Atleast I am for sure getting spark there. What I am noticing now is that when I pull the TRAIL plug wires at the trail coil assy and rest them on the coil bore, similar to the lead coil spark check that HAILERS had me perform, the T1 coil sparks, but "arcs" or "bridges" to the T2 coil. The T2 coil = no spark.

wtf?

satch

iTrader: (1)

To clarify something, are you checking for spark one plug at a time at the trailing coil or both at the same time?

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

One at a time.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Pretty much if the trailing coils don't have a whole lot to do with starting it... then they are of no concern to me, at the moment. I am really just trying to start the car at this point.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

I've checked and reattached some grounds, I removed my spark plugs, injected a bit of oil into the bottom spark plug holes, replaced the old spark plugs with new ones, and tried to start it. No start so far... Tomorrow I suppose I'll check the fuel pressure and whatever else. I just feel so stumped...

HAILERS

Swap the fuel lines AT the engine. Typical swap problem. Trust us.

Anytime I had spark but the engine won't start..............I'd just spray starter fluid into the intake snorkel for three seconds or less and the thing would start PROVING the fuel lines are crossed up or??

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

Maybe just try another driver side harness?

HAILERS

Go to ADVANCED SEARCH.....................................put in the words FUEL LINES CROSSED.................enter 2nd Gen...............hit GO..................read the LONG list of threads that had fuel lines crossed on a swap to a turbo engine and how they struggled up hill til they put the fuel lines on right.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

So, here is what my fuel set-up is like... I have a feeling that this seems wrong.

I have the FEED line going into an aftermarket FPR. The line then exits to the PRIMARY fuel rail... there is the hose that goes from the PRIMARY fuel rail to the SECONDARY fuel rail. The fuel exits the line coming from the SECONDARY fuel rail's (pulsation dampener?) -> RETURN.

(Not shown in drawing: vacuum hose from FPR to LIM nipple.)

These are JDM fuel rails that came with the engine. Is that why there is no FPR attached to the secondary fuel rail? Only the pulsation dampener...?

Does any of this seem right to anyone?

satch

iTrader: (1)

See if Post #29 applies.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...l+rails&page=2

HAILERS

[QUOTE=dwb87;10110237]So, here is what my fuel set-up is like... I have a feeling that this seems wrong.

I have the FEED line going into an aftermarket FPR. The line then exits to the PRIMARY fuel rail... there is the hose that goes from the PRIMARY fuel rail to the SECONDARY fuel rail. The fuel exits the line coming from the SECONDARY fuel rail's (pulsation dampener?) -> RETURN.

(Not shown in drawing: vacuum hose from FPR to LIM nipple.)

These are JDM fuel rails that came with the engine. Is that why there is no FPR attached to the secondary fuel rail? Only the pulsation dampener...?

Does any of this seem right to anyone?[/QUOT

************************************************** ************************************************** ************************************************** **

The very LAST thing in the routing should be the FPR. The very LAST thing.

I believe the way FPR work is .....................they regulate the pressure in the system b/t the pump and the FPR. The fuel rails are b/t the pump and the FPR.

When the pressure meets the requirements (that's determines by how much air/vacuum pressure is seen on the FPR's diaphram (sp), then the excess fuel is sent back to the fuel tank. That's why you always have a continuous flow of fuel thru the rails.

A stock series four turbo looks like the attached jpg. A JDM routing is a bit different but I don't own one of those so someone else would have to post that routing at the rails.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Alright, but I thought that the FEED line was always supposed to go to the FPR first... Doesn't the FPR regulate the fuel to the fuel rails/injectors?


Nevermind. HAILERS answered this very quickly.


Thanks... I'll be back with results!

HAILERS

Your engine is a JDM engine. The way I understand it, if the rails were NEVER changed around or messed with, then the PRESSURE and RETURN hoses at the left side of the engine would be opposite of what you see in my attached jpg above.

Or if you will.........the pressure line on a JDM would be attached to the rear hard line at the engine and the return line would be the fwd hardline on the engines left side.

Maybe the jpg below from another old thread will explain things better than I.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

I got the engine to start!!! ...Briefly. I switched the lines around so that the FPR was the last in order. The only problem now is that it starts briefly. I rev it up just a bit to try to keep it going, but it immediately dies. My little brother watched my FPR for me and he said it read around 89 psi... and then it drops to 0 psi and dies.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The AFM controls the fuel pump when the car has started but not until then. With w/key to on you could check the B/W wire located in the top row middle position within the circuit opening relay, yellow in color, located near the steering column. Should have battery voltage on it. Then jumper a wire from the Black wire in that plug to the Brown wire and try to start the car.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

I have a PFC... No AFM for me.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Still check the B/W wire for battery voltage w/key to on and if it has voltage then do the jumpering and start the car. I'm not familiar with the PFC other than you're in the military but if your circuit opening relay is not bypassed then do as I suggested.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

To be honest with you... I'm not sure exactly what you're talking about. I may be able to figure it out when I'm around my car tomorrow.