2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

no spark at coil

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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 07:33 PM
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no spark at coil

So one of the coils is not getting spark. Car won't start obviously.87 non turbo. It's the coil by firewall and I have no idea why or what could cause that. Will post a pic showing which one if needed. please help.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 09:36 PM
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uhm... anyone wanna help me out here please
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 09:52 PM
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It's only been 2 hours... what is this AAA?

Need more information about where you are not getting spark. I presume you mean you tested the coil wires and found them to be working correctly yes? Coils do go bad occasionally. They are also the most expensive part of your ignition system. So I would double check plugs, wires, and signal. Then consider a new coil if none of that works.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 09:57 PM
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my dad and me pulled the wires from coil and tested and no spark from it. however the other coil is sparking. it will crank all day. but no spark at all from the one at the firewall
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:11 PM
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Ok, just to clarify in case we are talking about different things. Not the spark plug wires, but the coil signal wires are not getting their signal? (I believe it is a negative signal, maybe can check with a multimeter while cranking) if this is so (and the wiring to the ECU unit checks out) I'm outta ideas. I run a standalone so I have no idea how the factory system works.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:17 PM
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I think he is saying his leading coil works, but checking on the trailing coil, there is no spark.
If that is the case, check for 12 volts from the two wire plug going to the igniter of the trailing coil.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:18 PM
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we just pulled the wires that go from coil to plugs and tested. and got no spark. i havent check ecu or anything. is the ecu called the ecm sometimes too? just curious. cuz i found a site for a used ecm for 125 and coils for 75. i just dont know what is wrong. if it was the ecm wouldnt both coils not spark?
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:22 PM
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the ecu rarely goes bad.
The car runs?
if it does run, does the rpm gauge work?
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Black Knight RX7 FC3S
I think he is saying his leading coil works, but checking on the trailing coil, there is no spark.
If that is the case, check for 12 volts from the two wire plug going to the igniter of the trailing coil.
here this will show which one is the problem

blue good. red bad
Attached Thumbnails no spark at coil-imag0082.jpg  
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:27 PM
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no car will not run. and the factory tach has not work since i have owned car. i have a aftermarket one going that i was going to finish hookin up but this happened
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:31 PM
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hmm...if the leading coil is good, the car should start and run.
Check for 12 volts from the black/yellow 2 wire connector with the key on. Also check to make sure the trailing coil is grounded properly
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:34 PM
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which coil is which. and at first i thought it was flooded but its not. and then it would like sputter here and there but now it just cranks and yeah nothing.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:46 PM
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the blue one you circled is the leading coil, the red one is the trailing coil
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:50 PM
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of course... the trailing coil would be bad... its the most expensive if i go new.. 1300 from dealer.... gay!!!
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:51 PM
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thanks for the help. ill let you know what i find out. or learn with checking stuff
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 11:03 PM
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now i think about it. when i was attempting to hook up aftermarket tach. i have a wire ran from coil as you can see. and i had the off thinking it may shock me. but i have no carpet. and it may have touched metal.. would that have anything to do with it?
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 11:50 PM
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The car should still be able to run on only the leading coil.

Just get a used trailing unit from the for sale section of the forum.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 11:52 PM
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The Green/Yellow wire at the trailing coil will be the wire which triggers the coil to fire. With key to on and turning the alternator pulley to get the main pulley to rotate, the voltage on the G/Y wire ought to go from 0 volts to 5 volts over and over in a repeated fashion. The coil also needs to be bolted to the fender for the ignitor to receive a proper ground for the coil to work.
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 08:40 AM
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Well I think it might be just severely flooded. Cuz it started this morning but ran like **** and sounded awful and wouldn't stay running without giving it some gas. But now it won't start again. I did find how to unflood a second gen. But it was only how to to unflood a s5. I have s4. I can try unflooding it right. But how?
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 09:46 AM
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same proceedure to unflood.
But instead of flooring the gas pedal like on a S5 to cut fuel on start up, on a S4 you will have to pull the egi fuse from the engine compartment,
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 10:11 AM
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And try to start it with the fuse(s) gone?
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 10:17 AM
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right now I can't drive it. I just let it warm up and stuff to keep fluids moving. and what not. and I did read short trips can flood them if you don't let it get to operating temp.
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 12:59 PM
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short trips where the engine hasnt warmed up yet will flood some cars with high mileage.
When the car hasnt been up to operating temperature, the engine uses more fuel then normal to speed up warm up time. High mileage engines normally has less compression, so the extra fuel will flood the combustion chamber and the spark plugs making it harder to start.
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 01:33 PM
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that would prolly explain it then. it has 125k so its just flooded then.
thanks knight. i bet it is just flooded. ill hit up unflood process
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 01:53 PM
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Which egi. I got comp. And inj.
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