1- got it


2- the plug at the ecu is it still the large plug? or one of the other 2? and when testing for proper ohms. i would would have set my tester to ohms and test the resistance of the same color wires as i did when i tested it on the CAS its self correct? according to the FSM.. sorry about all the questions i just wanna be sure i get the right idea before i waste time and test it wrong when i get home today..
thanks again satch.

 

White, Red and Blue CAS wires are in the 3rd plug and you'll find these three wires grouped together in only one ECU plug so it should be easy to find.

 

Ok. So update.

Now I get no voltage when I did test 1 mentioned above. Green/ylw wire on the ecu and hand turned the motor. So I went to check it at the coil. Positive to the grn/ylw plug negative to the battery. I did not get 12v.

Resistance from wht red and blue wires are in 165 170 ohms range.

But I noticed 2 things. One. Now the car wont crank at ALL. Just here the click and then nothing.
2.
The green wire that is on the cas. Cuz there is 4.. red wht blu and green.. but on the ecu side the green wire is soldered to the red wire directly and not in the plug. Idk if that matters.

So now with this new no crank symptom. What do I do?

 

It almost sounds like the relay isn't kicking in. I'll take a vid.

 

You would get 0 volts on the G/Y wire w/key to on and 5 volts for just a flash as the engine is turned over by hand.

Are you sure your battery is good and or its terminals? Weak voltage would prevent spark from occuring.

 

The battery was at a 12 when I started. Then by the time i was done. It had about 9v. But it would at least turn over when it was drained. It was slow but now I get no attempt for the starter even try to turn over. I'll charge the battery and try again.

 

Oh link to video.. lets call it document purposes. Ignore my rant at the end. Lol I hate electrical.
#rx7 woes:

 

if you have another cas on hand, just try it. it takes 2 minutes. ohming is only useful for finding opens and shorts. it absolutely does not qualify a component under load. even though all fsm of all makes/models specify it as the primary method for testing. i'm sure satch would agree on that. the cas is the most common cause for the condition. it is the component under the most stress. that, and the coil packs
sorry for barginig in here. i mean no disrespect. i understand the value of performing a diagnostic in the correct order to solve. but sometimes you have to weigh it in. try a quick and dirty. and if it doesn't solve, carry on with the flow chart. do not, however, go off on a tangeant of replacing parts

 

but charge the battery first, of course

 

and that is assuming you have your 12v at the cas. if not, disregard please

 

there should be a way of testing the cas using a noid light. would be much more effective than resistance testing

 

Ok after poking around I went back to check for 12v on the green/yellow wire at the coil. No dice. No voltage. I get 14v pn the black and yellow wire though.

 

Post #30.

 

Ok. I'm gonna have a buddy come this Sunday and help me out.

If I dint get the 5v even the motor is hand spun then what? And if I do?
I want to be pro active and find out as much as I can do I don't have to go back and forth and try one thing at time on the forum.

If the engine sits for too long I'm screwed

 

You could check for the 5 volts not just at the lead coil but the ECU pin in which the G/Y wire originates from so as to make sure the problem isn't a poor connection at the ECU. And you need to make sure the battery is up to speed.

 

Just checked the ecu. Had to hand spin the motor using the belt. No 5v on green and yellow wire. Even tried cranking the engine with key like I would normally start it. Still no voltage. What's next satch? Help!

 

If the engine is turning over via starter then it would rotate too fast to read the 5 volt signal. Did you ever ohm out the CAS at the plug which connects to the ECU or not ( not at the CAS plug itself but the plug carrying the CAS wires to the ECU. And make sure the engine ground is good.

 

Well I checked it hand spinning the motor first. No flash of 5 volts. As for the wires to the cas showed good ohm reading. Although the red wire was not in its place ave was instead soldered to one of the other wires. The green I think. I mentioned it in a previous post.

 

so i sent the car to lucky 7. found out the issue was related to a previous problem i had with the AFM wire being spliced by the previous owers hack job. but the issue is fixed and i can move on to the next fix.

thank you satch for your time and patience.

 

Really glad you got the issue fixed.