rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

alright.

im having some issues figuring out why im not getting any spark. All i did was replace the water pump housing gasket (took about 2 weeks to get this done waiting on the gaskets and time management) i put it all together and it wouldn't turn over.

i did some research using the fsm. I checked the 2 prong plug to the ingniter/ coil.
fsm stated that i should get 12v from that plug but when i tested it im getting -7.4v checked my batter ground and starter connections they were good. i guess other than checking the engine fuse under the driver side fuse box would be the next thing.. but i wanted to know if anyone had any idea as to why im not getting the correct the voltage from that plug. any help would be appreciated. im sure im overlooking something simple..

ps. the car is turning over. getting plenty of fuel, starter is all good i just cranks and cranks.

attached picture is the plug i tested according to the fsm.

thanks.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Red meter lead goes to B/Y wire and the Black meter lead goes to the negative battery terminal. Measure your battery to see if you can get a proper reading. If you get a negative battery reading w/the lead colors on the proper terminals then one cause would be the meter leads are plugged in backwards.

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

ok i might have messed up there as i used the red meter lead to the other wire. i think its green. and the black meter read to the BY wire..

i set the meter reader to DC right? cuz when i tested it on the batter. red to positive and black to negative i got about 13.xx volts so i guess ill have to try and re test it later...

anyway. if im not getting a proper reading after i test it again what should i do next? just trying to get as much info as i can before i go back and check.

thanks satch. i know youre the guru for the electrical.

JFD_8126

iTrader: (5)

Maybe something dealing with the CAS. Check that as it's control the spark.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The B/Y wire comes from the Main Relay and is powered by the White/Red wire thus the White/Red wire should read 12 volts constant voltage (no key needed). If the White/Red wire does not read 12 volts then it cannot power the B/Y wires w/12 volts of current.

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

i will double check the CAS thanks



the white red wire you speak of is on the relay correct?

satch

iTrader: (1)

It's powered by the EGI fuse on one end and ends at the relay in the plug w/4 wires. W/key to on the "constant voltage" from the W/L wire passes on to the B/Y wire.

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

Ok so I just tested the cas. Reads 168 ohms on both connections as stated by fsm anything from 110 to 200 is good. Properly tested b/y wire at the coil with key 12v so that leads me to believe the red white wire should be good. Checked the engine fuse none are blown.

I'm thinking maybe a wire on the ecu connector may be bad? Is there something I should check on the plug? I ask because that was the only other part I removed when I sent it to get rtek. It does have spliced wires from the old owner that installed a apexi safc.. any suggestions?

satch

iTrader: (1)

So, now that voltage at the B/Y wire has returned to normal do you still have a problem w/spark. If still no spark then w/key to on check the voltage on the Brown/White wire at the Boost Sensor as it should read 5 volts.

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

Yea still no spark. I plugged a timing light in to make sure of spark. I get one light flash from the timing light while I crank then nothing.

Pulled the engine fuse out and tested voltage on the terminal it self. Because I could not get a reading while the fuse is in for some odd reason. Reads 11.83v

Where is the boost sensor please?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Little Black box w/a vacuum hose and it's bolted to the passenger fender.

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

sorry for the delay. lots going on.

ok im gonna check the brown/white wire on the 4 prong plug correct? so do i put the ground lead in another prong? or to the negative terminal on the battery like i tested the coil/igniter plug.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Battery ground.

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

4.97v next?

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you checked for spark by pulling the plug wire boot off of the coil bore and placed the boot within a fraction of an inch of the bore and turned the key to start what happens?

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

i assume this is a 2 person thing? one to hold the plug wire at the coil and the other to start the car?

i will try that when i get back and report.

RE-TurboFB

You could use a piece of tape to hold the wire in place. After that just crank the engine over and watch for spark. The spark makes a pretty loud snapping sound as well that you could listen for..

The ECU sends a Negative pulse through the Green with yellow stripe wire that tells the coil when to fire that plugs into the leading coil pack.
If you take a test light or whatnot and connect one end of the test light to a +12 volt source and the other to the Green with yellow stripe wire and crank the engine over You can test if the ECU is sending signal to the coil.

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

No spark that I could see when I tested it the way mentioned above. No loud sound so im assuming the ecu isnt sending the signal?

satch

iTrader: (1)

You might want to to test the G/Y wire for the lead coil at the ECU (pin 1H). And do you have a spare CAS?

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

I have my trusty s4 for parts. Will the cas transfer over?

And which is pin 1h? There are 3 plugs. Small med and large. Can u direct me visually? If I'm looking at the plug with the clip of the plug at the top. Which row and column is the pin? You get me?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Pin 1H is the largest plug. 1H would be on the bottom row and the 4th from the right and it is the only Green/Yellow wire in that plug. And you should check the CAS for ohms at the ECU, plug disconnected for this test.

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

alright ill test it when i get home. so am i testing 2 things? the green/yellow 1h pin and CAS for correct ohms on the ecu its self?

and when testing pin 1H. would a +ve -ve volt meter work? i would assume i place the +ve lead in the pin and -ve lead should be touching clean metal on the chassis for ground? am i looking for a certain voltage?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Pin 1H is tested w/plug connected to ECU. The wire is the very same wire at the lead coil thus you look for the same thing. W/key to on it should read 0 volts and w/the engine turned over by hand it eventually will quickly show 5 volts before reverting back to 0 volts.

The ECU plug w/the CAS is to be unplugged from the ECU when ohming the CAS.

Red meter lead is set to a wire being measured for "voltage" and the Black lead to a ground. Use the mounting bolts of the ECU as your ground for measuring pin 1H.

rotary_bünta

iTrader: (3)

ok so if i got this right.

1- i leave the ecu plugged in as is. take red +ve lead and insert it behind the pin wire and black ground using mounting bolt of the ecu. turn key to on and should read 0 volts. i would need a second person to hand spin the car correct?

2- this one im not too sure what you mean. forgive me.
when ohming the CAS Im testing it at the plug on the CAS its self or the plug that the CAS plugs into? and im leaving all ecu plugs in at the ecu correct?

satch

iTrader: (1)

1. yes

2. There is a plug at the ECU which houses the wires from the CAS. W/the plug disconnected from the ECU you take the ohm reading at this disconnected plug.