2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

No power at high rpms

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Old Jan 11, 2003 | 03:59 AM
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No power at high rpms

Hey, I have a problem with my rx7. I just replaced the clutch because it was slipping. Before i replaced it, my car started jerking at 4k.... so I checked everything out and then found out the MAF plug wasnt in all the way... so I reconnected it better and the car didnt jerk around. Still at high rpms it used to be that it would pull hard and seem like it will pull hard over redline... now its like at higher rpms it doesnt jerk but seems like its not getting much power up high and I shfit before redline because it starts slowing down. I have no idea what the problem is, can someone help me out?
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Old Jan 11, 2003 | 04:00 AM
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check your plug wires, does it sound abnormal?
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Old Jan 11, 2003 | 04:06 AM
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I replaced the wires and plugs and all the good stuff in the summer.. The wires seem to be good, i mean they are pretty new.

Oh yea before it used to be that the car would fly up hills gaining speed like there was no hill, now its like barly gaining speed even at high rpms.
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Old Jan 11, 2003 | 04:15 AM
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did u get the wires on right? make sure all teh leading and trailing are on right. when u did the clutch u pulled the tranny i assume and there is a few sensors on there that u musthave unplugged did u plug them all back in? did u touch anythign else on the car?
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Old Jan 11, 2003 | 04:22 AM
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I put the wires the same excact way my friend had it on his rx7. Plus I had this problem before I did the clutch. It didnt just start right now. I thougth it might be the clutch, so I replaced it and guess that wasnt it.
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Old Jan 11, 2003 | 08:46 AM
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If it's an NA, check to make sure your 5th and 6th ports are opening up.

Also, check to make sure your cat is not clogged.
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Old Jan 11, 2003 | 11:12 AM
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Change your fuel filter if it hasnt been replaced in the last 20-30K
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Old Jan 11, 2003 | 12:49 PM
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Its an NA. Fuel filter was replaced 8k miles ago.
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Old Jan 11, 2003 | 03:33 PM
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Alright, can you guys tell me how to check if my ports are working and how to check if my cats are clogged?
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Old Jan 12, 2003 | 03:32 PM
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to check if the cats are clogged go beat eth crap out of teh car drivignit hard for atlest 30 mins after its been warmed up. and then pull over and see if the cat is glowing. if it is then its clogged.
to see if your 6 ports are working hook up a boost gauge to one of the two actuators for teh 5th and 6th port and then go drive the car, while florrign the car look at teh boost gauge you shuodl see it jump up to 4psi at aroudn 3800 rpm if it does then your airpump is sending the air to openteh 6 ports next thing to do to see if they are stuck is to unhook teh actuator arm fromt eh 6 port shaft and move tehm by hand, they should easily move by hand if they dont then they wont twist.

if you have a 89-91 also check your vdi unhook the hose for teh actuator and then hook up a boost gauge to it then drive the car and floor it at about 5500 rpm you shoudl see 4 psi onteh gauge. then unhook the rod and check to see if it turns freely.

if everythign berely turns or doesnt turn at all then u have carbon buildup , take all three manifolds out and clean them takign appart teh VDI and 6port valves.

good luck
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Old Jan 12, 2003 | 04:26 PM
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Originally posted by Kahren
to check if the cats are clogged go beat eth crap out of teh car drivignit hard for atlest 30 mins after its been warmed up. and then pull over and see if the cat is glowing. if it is then its clogged.
Um, what?

To check if the cat is clogged, remove it an inspect the honeycomb. Clogged or damaged will be obvious.

to see if your 6 ports are working hook up a boost gauge to one of the two actuators for teh 5th and 6th port and then go drive the car, while florrign the car look at teh boost gauge you shuodl see it jump up to 4psi at aroudn 3800 rpm if it does then your airpump is sending the air to openteh 6 ports next thing to do to see if they are stuck is to unhook teh actuator arm fromt eh 6 port shaft and move tehm by hand, they should easily move by hand if they dont then they wont twist.
Um, what?

Check out http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/6porttest.htm

good luck
Because you'll need it following Kahren's advice...

Also, I noticed that you had a hesitiation problem. It is a standard issue, so search for "hesitation" and you will find the fix.
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Old Jan 12, 2003 | 05:05 PM
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I have the exact same problem, and I've got an '86 n/a. Try putting a bit of grease on your actuator valve rods, then take it for a drive (make sure you rev it past 3500rpm) then pull over and check to see if the grease has moved on your actuator valves. I found that mine weren't working and now I've got to pull off the whole intake manifold and 'un-cease' the valves inside. Its usually about a 4 hour job apparently (sober).
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Old Jan 12, 2003 | 06:24 PM
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I've got the exact problem as you, Netseven. Very low power after 6k; running headers and no cats, new ngk and wires, new filters and rc-cleaned injectors, cleaned out vdi and aux ports, yada yah with no improvement after 6grands.
What I think we have is Bad Oil seals. Mine starts to blow heavy smoke after 6k, so oil gets in the way of that perfect air/fuel mixture and cause power loss.
That's my theory at least, I know my car still has enough down low to lay 3 car lengths worth of rubber
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Old Jan 12, 2003 | 06:43 PM
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same with me ebay7, except that my low power is pretty low, and i don't burn oil.
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Old Jan 12, 2003 | 07:53 PM
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how long was the vehicle sitting for while you did the clutch?
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Old Jan 13, 2003 | 12:29 AM
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My car was sitting for about 2 week while I was doing the clutch. I did pour MMO into the spark plug holes before I let it sit. Anyways it doesnt matter, i had this problem before I did the clutch. No, my oil seals are good, I dont blow smoke out the back anytime while driving. I just replaced my rear main oil seal while I was doing the clutch just in case.

I did notice that I took off the actuators when my car was jerking around over 4k rpms... I later found out that problem was caused by a bad connection on the MAF. After I fixed the MAF connection my car drove like this because I messed with a bunch of stuff trying to find the problem.

I just noticed that the gasket stuff I removed from the actuators. Im thinking maybe thats whats causing it to lose power. What kind of gasket should I use for it?
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Old Jan 13, 2003 | 12:33 AM
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I just read on your site about how if I take the actuators off that I need new gaskets. Where can I buy these gaskets??
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Old Jan 13, 2003 | 01:28 PM
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Mazda dealer. They cost like $1.30 a peice, I just bought a couple a few days ago.
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Old Jan 13, 2003 | 02:45 PM
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Originally posted by Net Seven

I just noticed that the gasket stuff I removed from the actuators. Im thinking maybe thats whats causing it to lose power. What kind of gasket should I use for it?
What year is your car? Actuators on S5 do not use gaskets at all.
btw, have you actually try revving your engine in neutral all the way up to redline for 5 seconds and verified not a single puff of blue/white smoke coming out. I think that MMO **** cause my bypass pellet to sieze and thus damaged my oil seals from low oil pressure.
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Old Jan 14, 2003 | 01:54 PM
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Its an 87 so its supposed to have gaskets. Uhh right now i got the gaskets and I put 1 on. and the other acuator is off. I put grease on it and tested and it doesnt get pushed up. Do both of them need to be connected for it to work?
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Old Jan 14, 2003 | 02:11 PM
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One will work without the other. But if you leave the vacuum line to it open it will vent off all of your pressure or vacuum (S4 ???) and will most likely prevent them both from working.
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Old Jan 14, 2003 | 02:54 PM
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I just put both of them on with new gaskets. Everything works by hand. I can move it in and out and it goes without any problems. I put grease on both of them and took the car for a spin... slows down at 6-7k rpms. I checked and the grease is still there and hasnt been smeared. I have no idea what the problem is.
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Old Jan 14, 2003 | 03:16 PM
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I went through the same crap your going through. Rather than drive around to check the operation, get yourself a vac/pressure pump and put some pressure in the line to make sure they pull down and stay down. If you didn't clean ALL of the gasket material off, the air will leak out. If they are leaking but you don't know where, you could keep pumping in pressure and spray some windex around the joints to check for leaks.

You will be able to feel it when they finally open up!

This may help as well. I wrote the troubleshooting section based on all the trouble I had, which is very similar to the trouble your having now.
http://www.zaxjax.com/APVS.htm

FYI
We had a dyno run this weekend and one of the new guys obviosly had stuck 6 ports. The horsepower and torque peaked at 5500 rpm (96rwhp!) and dropped after that.

Last edited by Zach McAfee; Jan 14, 2003 at 03:19 PM.
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Old Jan 14, 2003 | 07:22 PM
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I just tested them with an air compressor. They go down and stay down real quick. They work get like that. Then that means that there is no pressure from the exhuast to make them open?? What do you guys think the problem is?
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Old Jan 14, 2003 | 08:00 PM
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I guess you can have them wired open for now to see if it makes a difference up top. Months ago I had the aux port and vdi wired open and was still low on power above 6k. Makes me think it's either not sparking correctly or my oil riched mixture is messing up the a/f mixture.
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