i have a 1988 GTU and i did a TII swap, i just finished the swap and it has problems revving. it revs up fine, but it takes a long time to rev up. when i drive it it feels like it has no power. It takes forever to reach atleast 4k rpm, does anyone know how to fix this problem

 

need some more info my friend...

what EXACTLY did you swap? engine? trans? ECU? pressure sensor? AFM? etc?

Is there anything aftermarket in the mix? safc? larger secondaries?

Is the swapped in motor from an importer? taken out of a running TII? What series is the engine?

 

i swap a s4 jspec engine i bought online, it has full t2 drivetrain. running a n333 ecu, t2 pressure sensor, t2 afm, no afc or larger injectors everything is like a stock t2.

 

clogged cats I herd make it rev slow and my friends with clogged cats wont go higher then 6K without stuttering, maybe not enough fuel too?

 

its running just the DP right now, no cats :-/, backfires liek crazy, would it still backfire when its running lean or no fuel?

 

compression test time....

 

Sounds like you got another junk j-spec. Verify that you have compression on both rotors, if you do then it is most likely a clogged/stuck fuel injector or bad spark plugs. However, what you are describing are the symptoms of a car running on one rotor due to blown/stuck seals on the other.

 

could be a timing issue, bad throttle response and stopping around 4k sounds like what my talon was doing when I had the timing off a bit.

 

I would put $ on compression.

 

Sounds similar to what happens when the lead and trail plugs are mixed up. Plus all the above items in the other posts.

Also almost sounds like primary and secondary injector plugs are crossed. Not likely though.

 

And the harness that goes to the fuel injectors, the EM harness, which is it? The turbo or the n/a harness?

 

I love my j-spec, listen to hailers the comp ideas are because people are scared of j-spec. One rotor would not run like that.

 

it is connected to the turbo harness

 

I also had a similar problem a couple years ago.
Lack of power, slow revving....

Mine turned out to be a bad leading coil.

After swapping it out the car was like new!

Just pop a timing light on it and you'll know.

 

There's nothing *wrong* with using a turbo EM harness in a non turbo car, IF you make small changes to the pinning of the plugs called X-15 and X-16.

See the attached jpg of X-15 and how I underlined two wires with a red line. Now the bottom half of that plug is part of the EM harness and since you used a turbo EM harness you have the (BrR) or brown/red wire in that socket. It ties in with the boost sensors output wire.

Now look at the other half of the plug called the F half of the harness. See the BW I underlined in red? It goes to the METER fuse if memory serves. It has 12vdc on it when the key is to ON.

So what you have is a BrR wire with b/t 2-5vdc output from the boost sensor meeting a BW wire from the Meter fuse that has 12vdc on it. Not good since there is another wire spliced to the BrR wire that leads to the ECU pin 2B on a series four. Normally that 2B sees only 2-5 vdc but now sees 12vdc. Not a good thing

Now if you already addressed that small issue, pay no attention to what I wrote. Press on with life. But if you did not address that small issue, fix it. Personally I'd just remove the BrR wire from the EM half of that harness and put some shrink tubing over its termainal and tie it back to the harness.

There are about four other wires that need addressing. Ones that effect the water temp, oil pressure, alternator.

Anyway, I'd check the compression on the engine first. Maybe just a simple finger test. REmvoe both bottom sparkplugs and put a finger over one hole at a time while someone spins the engine. Now compare the pulses from one plug hole to the other. They should be similar with no oddites like the one rotor has consistent puffs while the other has about half or less as many puffs.

Better to use a compression gauge but that'll get you in the ballpark.