No Power Anywhere
04-25-06, 03:44 PM
#26
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by HAILERS
Maybe somehow you left one or the other wires off when you reinstalled the main fuse. Question: did you indeed replace the main fuse? You'd have to remove the two bolts that hold it in the fuse box to do so. Just asking.
Originally Posted by HAILERS
IF all that is right, I think what I'd do, if I had no meter, is to put the headlights to the UP position. Now you say they don't work. So go to the battery and the fuse box and do a wiggle test. Wiggle the battery posts and the wires. IF there is a intermittent, then the light should pop up or make a sound when you touch the right wire/connection.
Like I said though, I can get the headlights up in all but the Start position (didn't try, wasn't sure if it could cause a problem). The ACC position has them working properly. In the On position, they are very slow to go up and are dim.
Originally Posted by HAILERS
Also make sure you did not accidentaly pull one or more of the wire off the bottom of the engine fuse box. The ones that just pull straight off.
Originally Posted by HAILERS
If you had a meter it'd be simple. Just check at each side of the main fuse to see if there is batt voltage. I mean each of the bolts that hold the fuse in the box should have batt voltage.
Originally Posted by HAILERS
IF you have voltage there, then look down from the engine bay fuse box and look for a single black wire and single wire connector . Pull it apart and see if there is batt voltage on the fuse box side. Actually this almost can't be you problem because that wire ONLY feeds the ignition switch and also splits off and goes to the alternators output wire.
Originally Posted by HAILERS
I've blown one Main Fuse in my life and that was by using a long screwdriver to adjust the tps on the engine. Just barely touched the alt output terminal. The only thing that blew was that fuse in an instant, so it's hard to believe anything else got burnt up when you blew your main fuse. It's odd.
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
I need to apologize a little. The MAIN FUSE is not as important as I previously thought. I looked at the FSM diagram and couldn't believe the car was wired like the picture in the book. So I went to my car and sure enough, the MAIN FUSE has squat to do with whether or not the headlights come up or not. There is a jpg attached where you can see the 80amp Main Fuse has no influence on the headlights etc. Only the feed line that goes to the alternator and the ignition switch.
Originally Posted by HAILERS
So it's virtually impossible for the blowing of the Main fuse to cause the headlights/retractors to not work. Therefore it has to be another thing.
ACC - Work fine
On - Slow to go up and dim
Start - Haven't tried
Originally Posted by HAILERS
Now the fuse box gets fed from the positve terminal of the battery. That small black wire goes from the positve terminal to the fwd side of the engine fuse box and is held with a small bolt. This bolt is just below the one that holds the main fuse in the box. It's almost impossible for this size wire to burn intwo by just touching the alt post to ground. Ain't no way. So make sure the battery is fully charged and the two terminals are on good as a beginning thing to do.
04-25-06, 07:22 PM
#27
HAILERS
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Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
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***********Are you talking about the x-23 connector*************** YES.
But now I see you do have some action from the lights/retractors. Slow and dim. It shouldn't have anything to do with X-23. Not related at all.
Frankly it just sounds like a dead/down battery or the cables/fittings attached to the battery. If ground related, it would have to be the battery neg cable that attaches to the chassis just below the left strut tower and goes on to the long, outboard starter bolt.
I'd make sure the black cable from the batt positive post is installed on the engine fuse box good, since you were in that area. That wire should be located in the front of the box and either attached to the front bolt that holds the Main Fuse in or a bolt directly below that fuse bolt. On my cars that black wire has a white piece of tape near the ring connection.
And I do realize that I've changed my approach to this problem. First because I always thought the Main did more in life than it does (gotta look at dem book mo) and also not sure if anything worked at all or not.
I'd bet if you went to Start the whole system would black out on you. Really sounds like battery terminals more than anything. Sorry 'bout that.
But now I see you do have some action from the lights/retractors. Slow and dim. It shouldn't have anything to do with X-23. Not related at all.
Frankly it just sounds like a dead/down battery or the cables/fittings attached to the battery. If ground related, it would have to be the battery neg cable that attaches to the chassis just below the left strut tower and goes on to the long, outboard starter bolt.
I'd make sure the black cable from the batt positive post is installed on the engine fuse box good, since you were in that area. That wire should be located in the front of the box and either attached to the front bolt that holds the Main Fuse in or a bolt directly below that fuse bolt. On my cars that black wire has a white piece of tape near the ring connection.
And I do realize that I've changed my approach to this problem. First because I always thought the Main did more in life than it does (gotta look at dem book mo) and also not sure if anything worked at all or not.
I'd bet if you went to Start the whole system would black out on you. Really sounds like battery terminals more than anything. Sorry 'bout that.
04-25-06, 07:33 PM
#28
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
No problem, my post was probably a bit confusing too.
If it's my battery cables I'm going to be pissed because I just put new ones on about 3 months ago (less than 1000 miles on them).
Come to think of it, when I went to jump it I did have signs of power in the Start key position. There was clicking and the tach went to 3k. However, the clicking didn't sound like the clicking a messed up starter makes. That doesn't mean it wasn't... it just didn't sound like ones I've heard before.
In the ACC position, I get normal operation. In the On position, I get reduced voltage. Assuming my battery is bad, could that be because there's an increased power requirement in the On position?
So hypothetically, in other words, my battery could have enough power to do stuff in the ACC position, but not enough to handle everything in the On position. Then in the Start position it can't even begin to handle the voltage requirements.
P.S. When I did a search on Ignition Switch I found you saying that connector 348934 times (and it usually being the problem). I learned it well .
If it's my battery cables I'm going to be pissed because I just put new ones on about 3 months ago (less than 1000 miles on them).
Come to think of it, when I went to jump it I did have signs of power in the Start key position. There was clicking and the tach went to 3k. However, the clicking didn't sound like the clicking a messed up starter makes. That doesn't mean it wasn't... it just didn't sound like ones I've heard before.
In the ACC position, I get normal operation. In the On position, I get reduced voltage. Assuming my battery is bad, could that be because there's an increased power requirement in the On position?
So hypothetically, in other words, my battery could have enough power to do stuff in the ACC position, but not enough to handle everything in the On position. Then in the Start position it can't even begin to handle the voltage requirements.
Originally Posted by HAILERS
***********Are you talking about the x-23 connector*************** YES.
.
Last edited by DerangedHermit; 04-25-06 at 07:35 PM.
04-28-06, 07:12 PM
#30
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
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***********So hypothetically, in other words, my battery could have enough power to do stuff in the ACC position, but not enough to handle everything in the On position. Then in the Start position it can't even begin to handle the voltage requirements.*************
I tell you what. With the key out of the car, you should be able to turn the headlight on/up. If they do not, there is a battery/battery terminal problem. Defineltly not a ignition switch problem. Not related.
I tell you what. With the key out of the car, you should be able to turn the headlight on/up. If they do not, there is a battery/battery terminal problem. Defineltly not a ignition switch problem. Not related.
04-29-06, 02:02 PM
#31
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
1st time I tried to start after cleaning main ground, starter ground/feed.
Lock. Sounded good worked good.
ACC. Didn't have the normal SUPER voltage drop. I'd say it was around 10.
Start. Clicking.
2nd+ time I tried to start.
Lock. I'm getting 12.6v at the battery and around 12v at the fuse box (both sides). In other words, same as before.
ACC, I'm getting 1.5v from the battery terminals, fuse box... etc.
Start, yeah right.
Interesting that it at least tried to start and that things improved after cleaning grounds/connections. I did notice that the bolt on my top starter wire (ground I think, the one that the clip is also with) was loose. Yay for bad connections...
Time to go get the battery tested and probably buy some new terminals while I'm there.
Lock. Sounded good worked good.
ACC. Didn't have the normal SUPER voltage drop. I'd say it was around 10.
Start. Clicking.
2nd+ time I tried to start.
Lock. I'm getting 12.6v at the battery and around 12v at the fuse box (both sides). In other words, same as before.
ACC, I'm getting 1.5v from the battery terminals, fuse box... etc.
Start, yeah right.
Interesting that it at least tried to start and that things improved after cleaning grounds/connections. I did notice that the bolt on my top starter wire (ground I think, the one that the clip is also with) was loose. Yay for bad connections...
Time to go get the battery tested and probably buy some new terminals while I'm there.
04-29-06, 02:41 PM
#33
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Yeah, at least things are improving (I guess).
The battery tested good... that rules that out. I got some new terminals while I was there, let's see what that does.
The battery tested good... that rules that out. I got some new terminals while I was there, let's see what that does.
04-29-06, 03:14 PM
#34
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Well I fixed it. I'm hesistant to say how... All I have to say is, never buy the painted (red/black) battery terminals! 
Well, thanks to everyone that helped anyways. In the future, this information for other ideas will provide helpful when I, eventually, have ignition problems.
<3 HAILERS
<3 classicauto
Now to find out why my alternator is making a horrible noise everytime the pulley turns. I suspect a oddly machined dual pulley. We shall see...
Well, thanks to everyone that helped anyways. In the future, this information for other ideas will provide helpful when I, eventually, have ignition problems.
<3 HAILERS
<3 classicauto
Now to find out why my alternator is making a horrible noise everytime the pulley turns. I suspect a oddly machined dual pulley. We shall see...
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