vrracing

iTrader: (1)

Our JDM S5 Tii rebuild has no oil pressure. I put a gallon in and it was at the top of the dipstick (obviously hadnt got to the cooler or anywhere else).

Pulled the EGI and tried to prime the oil system. After several cranks we got nuttin'.

So I checked the oil cooler thermostat and it was in right and there was no oil. Nada.

So I pulled the pan assuming we'd forgotten the pickup gasket which is the cause-celeb in the search results. But there was a gasket. And of course when I put the pickup back in with a torque wrench at 15 ft/lbs one of the damn things broke. The Drill-Out I picked up at Sears rocked but of course I had to pretty much pull the engine to get to it.

So next is to pull the front cover which of course brings all the hassle with the disk bearings. But any thoughts on what I'll be looking for? We didn't disassemble the pump when we did the rebuild so didn't fret about the keys that are the typical problem.

Thanks

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i would first test or replace the oil pressure sending unit. next you should test the oil presure gauge in the cluster. finally, you can temporarily install an aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge. this will give you a good indication of your oil pressure without using any of the car's systems

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

The pump isnt moving oil to the oil cooler so it's still several feet away from the sending unit.

Bruceman

iTrader: (5)

Make sure there are no plugs left in the oil line fittings on the engine. This happened to me when the plug was pushed way up into the fitting out of sight.

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

Last night I put a bowl of oil on my jack and lifted it up to the oil pick up ensuring the end of the pickup was completely submerged. As noted earlier the oil pickup has been reattached with a new gasket and sealant that was allowed to cure for 24 hours. And then I took the oil cooler line off at the front iron.

I cranked the engine several times and no oil came out at all. I could see that the chain is turning the domed gear on the oil pump.

So tonight the front cover comes off. I'd appreciate some advice.

1) I know that sealant is the recommended way to go for the oil pan. Will that work for the front cover too or do I need to buy/make a new "paper" gasket?

2) is there any kind of sealing mechanism (gasket, o-ring, sealant, etc) for the oil pump to front iron I'll need to source?

3) The S5 NA is resting comfortably on a half palette on its engine mounts. I could pull the known-to-be-working oil pump out of it in a heartbeat. Can I assume the oil pumps are interchangeable between S5 NAs and S5 JDM Tiis?

Frankly, I'm tired of dicking around with this in the 100 degree weather so just want to get it running (or even get to TRY to get it running! ). Plus, while crawling under the car I noticed the lower A-arm bushings were disintegrating so more to do!

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

I got the front cover off.

I was reviewing the FSM and there doesn't seem to be any sign of a gasket, o-ring or anything between the oil pump and the front iron in the illustrations. Now given that the gasket between the oil pickup and the front iron is so critical so no air leaks, shouldn't there be something between the oil pump and the iron? The FSM shows the front cover gasket on page D-9 but not one between the oil pump and iron.

I'm confused.

HAILERS

Nope. No gasket. No RTV. Zip. None needed.

Make sure the KEY is on the oil pump shaft and also look at the side of the pumps body for a allen set screw being there. They have been known to fall out. I found one in the bottom of the oil pan on a engine from the wreck yard. Wondered where it came from. Found out. Came from the side of the oil pump. Supposed to be staked in the body after the screw is installed.

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

Cool, thanks Hailers. We didnt disassemble the oil pump during the rebuild so hadnt paid any attention to it. 4 bolts and I'll have it out this evening and give it the once over.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

It can take quite a while for the pump to prime itself it if was assembled dry. Without lubrication to seal it may not draw enough vacuum until the engine actually starts.

Even without a front cover gasket and a missing o-ring, you will still have oil pressure.

With a S5, you should use the supplied front cover gasket (rebuild kit) and the o-ring with Teflon support ring.

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

Ok, thanks Aaron. I'm assuming the front cover gasket is only available in the rebuild kit so I guess I'll build my own. Since I have the front cover off, I'm going to try the "drill on the oil pump bolt" to spin it without cleansing my engine internals of assembly lube. If that doesn't go, I'll pull the one out of the NA and stick it in there.

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

Boys, we dun stuck OIL!

As usual, the ever wise Mr. Cake has done it again! You're right, the oil pump needs to be filled with oil to work.

With the front cover off I put the front hub back on (or I think bad things will happen with the flat needle bearings ).

I put a quart plastic disposable bowl and filled it with engine oil and put it on my jack which I then raised until the pickup screen and top shield were completely covered.

Then I used my little oiling can (filled with 2-stroke oil to squirt in the spark plugs holes to build compression during start up attempts) and squirted it into the hole with the white teflon ring (it's different on S4s) in the front iron and pumped until oil flowed back out the hole. Then using a 19mm socket I shifted the eccentric shaft back and forth a couple of times then rotated the e-shaft clockwise. The green 2-stroke oil came out followed by gold motor oil! WOOT!

So for anyone in the future who doesn't have oil flowing here's what I'd suggest given my newly-gained hindsight:

1) With the oil pan full, take off the front oil cooler line, preferably from the cooler. Then pour some oil in it; at least a cup or two. Otherwise, any way you can put oil in the output to the oil cooler from the front iron is good. The idea is to get some oil back to the pump. It's a level shot so shouldn't be too hard.

2) rotating the e-shaft back and forth for a bit should work some of the oil into the pump.

3) then just crank the engine clockwise (normal running direction) and it shouldn't take much to get oil flowing. I did it with a 1/2" ratchet and a 19mm socket and I was really impressed with how much oil that thing pumps.

Thanks,

Jim