jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

i installed a new cd player in my TII and went to go for a drive at night and noticed that i have no lighting for the gauge cluster. also there is no lighting for the logicon. i thought that i could have blown the "illum" fuse, but all the fuses are good. also, the parking lights and headlights and brake lights all work fine, but i checked the headlight switch anyways for the infamous melted power wire. well the power wire was fine...

now my question is: does anyone know where the logicon/gauge lighting is fused? also where it gets its power and ground? i'm thinking i left a ground disconnected during the cd player install, but i wouldnt think the cd player DIN area would have grounds for the gauge and logicon lights..... also, the gauges work fine, its just the backlighting that isnt coming on. same with the logicon.

FC507

I am having the same problem as well, could someone help!!!!!

Icemark

as covered in your thread, you have a burned up headlight switch... not sure why you are missing that??its covered in the FAQ for FC sticky thread, which you were provided links too

Icemark

No, if the power wire (white/green) was melted you would have no parking lights. The majority of the time the power wire has not failed, but rather either the parking light wire (red/black) or the interior/dash light wire(red/green). Do you have a positive voltage output on the red/green when the parking lights are on??? If not you have a burned up light switch.

the same place the parking lights are fused, and through the white/green.

There are no grounds at the back of the radio, so I am not sure what ground wire you are refering too. Perhaps you have confused the parking light wire that feeds the radio lumination with a ground wire???

The Logicon grounds into the main dash harness, and is unrelated to anything to do with the radio.

and finally your bump has been deletd. You should know better. Bumps are forbidden here in the 2nd gen technical section.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

mark, in the cd player DIN area, i have a red/green wire that has positive voltage that goes nowhere. could this be a problem?

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Light Green or Green?

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

green.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

mark, this just in.

i tested my green/red wire in the DIN area and it has no voltage. no voltage with the key on or off, and no voltage with the parking lights on or off. so you're saying this means i have a bad headlight switch?

Icemark

Yep, if the switch is on (in either the parking light only or headlight on mode) the red/green should have voltage (it can be anywhere between 2 and 14.4 volts depending on how high you have the dimmer set).

If it does not have voltage, you have a bad switch (usually the big ol' 10 amp fet inside the switch is smoked).

Time for a rebuilt switch, on sale this month at Mazdamark.com for only $85 + shipping.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

let me clarify this:

GREEN with a RED stripe, right?

FC507

Hi icemark, as i have the same problem mentioned above. I have tested the plug which plugs into the headlight switch cluster, i put a direct battery connection to the plug's port (illumination and earth) and whole dash lights up, comes back alive. But when i use the headlight switch to turn on the headlights, the exterior lights are all fine, and for interior, the only part lights up is the glovebox light, so is it my headlight cluster switch needs replacement or else???

Icemark

NO.

Red wire, Green stripe (red/green) = Dimmer circuit/dash lights

Red wire, black stripe (red/black) = Parking lights (and some dash lights that don't dim)

Icemark

Yep, bad switch. If the harness that plugs into the switch is at all burnt/discolored, you will need to replace that as well.

You can jump over the red/black to the red/green and get your dash lights on full brightness for a temporay set up, but you will want to replace the switch ASAP, and I would probably use a relay for both the parking lights and dash lights if I jumpered the two together (even on a temp basis).