Bjeralds

iTrader: (1)

I will measure that after work tomorrow. Its dark and I have to be up at 6 for work. It sounds to me when I give it gas as if the secondaries may not be firing. But it ran fine before, so I dont see why they wouldnt now.
One of my friends says his secondaries stick shut after sitting for a few weeks. Amd his friends does the same. Idk.

I will check for codes and measure the tps wire after work.

Bjeralds

iTrader: (1)

The Brown/white wire at the TPS has 5 volts. I started it again just to see if it ran better but no luck. When trying to start it kinda goes vroom vroom blah. Like idk how to explain it. To me it sounds kinda like a timing issue but I am pretty sure its set right. Could one or two teeth off of perfect alignment when installing the CAS cause this? Because its possible it moved a tiny bit when i put it in. If I remove the oil filler and alternator it would be more of a straight shot putting it in.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Were there any error codes. Takes less than one minute to do. If you take the top plate off of the CAS you can hold it in place when installing.

Bjeralds

iTrader: (1)

Wasnt able to check till now. It has multiple codes. Looking them up now. This is on the ECU i just bought. It has Codes, 2 12 18 30 34 38

Bjeralds

iTrader: (1)

Wierd how it ran fine before. Could it be the ECU? The 30 based codes could be because a wire to my BAC broke so I disconnected it.
The other codes for CAS and TPS do not make sense as the car ran fine before the relay issue.
I am not sure if my old ECU is good but maybe I should try it.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You have a long list of codes which should have been one of the very first things to check hint, hint. You need to spin the CAS w/key to on and see if you can get the injectors and spark plugs to click. If it means connecting the spare CAS then do it. After you plug in the back up CAS unplug the battery ground for a few minutes then reconnect it then check for error codes once again to see if code #2 appears once again. And you need the BAC to idle properly and it assists in starting the car so you need to address that as well.

Bjeralds

iTrader: (1)

Lol. Yeah it should have been. I'll go do the CAS in a few min. Should I try my old ECU as well? Because I did not have any codes before and the engine ran great.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you don't have the BAC connected it should show a code so changing ECU's would not help for that but if you can't iron out the other things then it would be an idea to switch them out. And if the engine ran great then what was the motivation for changing the ECU? Had to ask!

Bjeralds

iTrader: (1)

I tried switching them out and it ran the same. Badly. And yes by spinning the CAS I get two sparks per coil every revolution of the CAS and one pulse per injector each revolution. At least that is what it sounds like as far as the numbers go.

And I had my Rtek chip go in one ECU so I got a new chip. That ECU died do to an electrical malfunction caused be me accidently shorting something. Ane yes the battery was unppluged but i did not notice the short and connected the battery and blew the main fuse and that ecu.

Got another ECU and new Rtek chip but when i got the ecu I noticed a burnt resistor so I decided not to mess with the Rtek chip and the car seemed to run better without it.

So when it started cutting out I assumed, maybe it was something in the ecu since i had had i not start before due to the chip going bad.

Bjeralds

iTrader: (1)

And could the main relay being damaged or a bad ECU ground cause the sensors to have an error like they are?

Since the main relay seems to work I assume its good but i may replace it since my friend has one laying around just for good measure

satch

iTrader: (1)

I doubt that the relay or ground is causing your error codes. A poor connection, yes. Did you try checking for error codes after the CAS switching to see if you got the same code. Say yes.

Bjeralds

iTrader: (1)

Yes. Still the same. But those sensors worked fine before the issue with my relay. The only thing's I've done are change the ECU, The CAS, and check the main relay. So I would assume it is something near one of those items.

Rawr, i'm gonna go crazy.

satch

iTrader: (1)

So with either CAS you get the same CAS error code? Did you disconnect the battery ground to clear the ECU or not? If so then you have a poor connection at the CAS or ECU most likely.

Bjeralds

iTrader: (1)

Yes and Yes. And the connection at the CAS looks ok as does the connection at the ECU. Is there a way to check a pin at the ECU to see if the signal is making it to the ecu intact?

satch

iTrader: (1)

You can perform an ohm test w/the ECU plug disconnected and ohm out both the Green and Blue wires together and then the Red and White wires and both measurements should read between 110 to 210 ohms.

Bjeralds

iTrader: (1)

Is this at the ECU or at the CAS?

satch

iTrader: (1)

You can do it at both points. If it's good at the ECU plug then you know it has to be good at the CAS.

Bjeralds

iTrader: (1)

To make sure I am testing the right wires, the red and white are in the same pin position just one on top and one on bottom right?
They read 165 ohms at the ecu and at the CAS.

The blue and green wires are in different plugs one in the biggest plug and one in the smallest plug right?

That set reads 165 at the CAS but nothing at the ECU. I guess I gould backprobe the connector on the harness side to see if it is the connector. Or I could make small slices in the insulation at points along the harness and try to find the point where the signal is lost.

What would you reccomend?

These are the NE signal wires I believe, which is the code it was giving.

satch

iTrader: (1)

I was mistaken earlier and gave you the Green wire to use when the Green wire splices into the Red wire before it reaches the ECU plug, sorry. The CAS wires should be in the same plug. 3G is White, 3H is Red, 3E is Blue. So White and Red are ohmed then Blue and Red are ohmed.

Bjeralds

iTrader: (1)

They are all within spec. they read between 160 to 180 So why would it throw a code for the CAS?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Maybe one of the respective wires is pulled back within the ECU plug thus not making proper contact w/the ECU terminals.

Bjeralds

iTrader: (1)

I suppose this is possible as I did have a bit of trouble unplugging the ECU and, stupidly might have pulled on the wires a bit to help unplug it. Its worth a shot.

Bjeralds

iTrader: (1)

No luck. I had my friend take a video of what it is doing. It is poor quality though. Didnt know he wasnt using HD. May try to do another in better quality. It is just running real rough and does not want to rev.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Red and Green wires of the CAS are spliced together before reaching the ECU. Perhaps this connection is poor. When you ohm out the CAS the Green wire is not taken into account so that would explain some things. You might think about jumpering a wire from the CAS plug housing the Green wire and stabbing it into the back of pin 3H where the Red wire resides.

Bjeralds

iTrader: (1)

I may try that. I am also going to check the connection at the main relay again. As that is where the whole problem started. And I know you said that you dont believe that a relay could cause the issue but is it possible?

I am also going to recheck my codes and see if its still the same.