No A/C from firewall forward. What do I need?
#1
No A/C from firewall forward. What do I need?
Well, for the first time ever I'm going to have A/C in my personal car.
But here is the problem.
I have no a/c under the hood.
The car is an 87' with a 94' engine.
Manual rack and pinion steering.
I'll make the bracket to mount the compressor.
I know i need a condenser in front of the radiator.
a dryer/receiver of some sorts.
a switch to turn on the e-fan.
I have some other ideas too but need some help on the details.
So, I guess my question is,
What is everything I need under my hood to get my A/C running? and Is there anything under my dash I need to know about?
Thanks
But here is the problem.
I have no a/c under the hood.
The car is an 87' with a 94' engine.
Manual rack and pinion steering.
I'll make the bracket to mount the compressor.
I know i need a condenser in front of the radiator.
a dryer/receiver of some sorts.
a switch to turn on the e-fan.
I have some other ideas too but need some help on the details.
So, I guess my question is,
What is everything I need under my hood to get my A/C running? and Is there anything under my dash I need to know about?
Thanks
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
Let's see...
Probably your best bet is 86-88 S4 Non-Turbo.
You'll need:
Sanden compressor (get a working used OEM one or new OEM, avoid remans except for those offered by ackits.com) with compressor hoses (you'll need to rebuild the hoses with barrier hose)
Parallel flow condenser (more efficient than the stock one), you will need custom lines made to connect it into the loop
OEM hard piping
Factory drier (bolts in place)
evaporator
expansion valve
compressor oil
refrigerant
o-rings
sealant/assembly lube
high/low pressure cut-off switch
Do a keyword search for A/C in this section of the forum and you'll find more details on parts, refrigerants, etc.
Given that you're running newer engine, you may end up going with the compressor meant for that engine and simply adapt the compressor hoses to work with the earlier hard pipes.
Probably your best bet is 86-88 S4 Non-Turbo.
You'll need:
Sanden compressor (get a working used OEM one or new OEM, avoid remans except for those offered by ackits.com) with compressor hoses (you'll need to rebuild the hoses with barrier hose)
Parallel flow condenser (more efficient than the stock one), you will need custom lines made to connect it into the loop
OEM hard piping
Factory drier (bolts in place)
evaporator
expansion valve
compressor oil
refrigerant
o-rings
sealant/assembly lube
high/low pressure cut-off switch
Do a keyword search for A/C in this section of the forum and you'll find more details on parts, refrigerants, etc.
Given that you're running newer engine, you may end up going with the compressor meant for that engine and simply adapt the compressor hoses to work with the earlier hard pipes.
#7
Well I checked the size to the fittings.
I actually have a hose kit from vintage air.
It appears to be a #10 and a #6.
However, the thread size of the #10 is off just a hair.
Guessing metric thread.
The #6, the entire size of the nut is off.
So, now we know what size line it is any idea on what size nut and thread pitch??
I actually have a hose kit from vintage air.
It appears to be a #10 and a #6.
However, the thread size of the #10 is off just a hair.
Guessing metric thread.
The #6, the entire size of the nut is off.
So, now we know what size line it is any idea on what size nut and thread pitch??
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#8
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Just wanted to insert a quick comment here... I notice you are from Texas and that the initial list mentions using barrier hoses which seems to indicate retrofitting to R134A....
I would discourage you from converting your AC system to 134A --especially in a warmer area like Texas. Yes if you do a proper conversion, you will have a system that works. However, it will not work as well as using the original R12 -especially when ambient temps get over 100, and at the higher pressures 134A needs to run, your AC components will not last as long.
People make out like R12 is impossible to get, but if you open craigslist in almost any large city, you will see several ads for R12 for sale. (Quick check shows 20 ads in DFW alone) And Ebay usually has from 50 to 100 auctions for virgin R12 at any given time. The 2 pounds or so you'll need to charge your system will cost you 50-75 bucks for the individual cans, or less if you pick up a 30 pound cylinder. That's not much more than 134a. If you go ebay you're supposed to be "EPA 508 Certified". All this entails is taking a brief test. The test cost me 20 bucks and took a half hour. FWIW most don't ask for certification on Craigslist.
I live in Texas and have 2 RX7s with AC running R12 and am working on setting up AC on my 323 GTX. My 7's AC systems are ice cold.
Save the 134A for cars that were meant for it.
I would discourage you from converting your AC system to 134A --especially in a warmer area like Texas. Yes if you do a proper conversion, you will have a system that works. However, it will not work as well as using the original R12 -especially when ambient temps get over 100, and at the higher pressures 134A needs to run, your AC components will not last as long.
People make out like R12 is impossible to get, but if you open craigslist in almost any large city, you will see several ads for R12 for sale. (Quick check shows 20 ads in DFW alone) And Ebay usually has from 50 to 100 auctions for virgin R12 at any given time. The 2 pounds or so you'll need to charge your system will cost you 50-75 bucks for the individual cans, or less if you pick up a 30 pound cylinder. That's not much more than 134a. If you go ebay you're supposed to be "EPA 508 Certified". All this entails is taking a brief test. The test cost me 20 bucks and took a half hour. FWIW most don't ask for certification on Craigslist.
I live in Texas and have 2 RX7s with AC running R12 and am working on setting up AC on my 323 GTX. My 7's AC systems are ice cold.
Save the 134A for cars that were meant for it.
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