Well, Blake got me to thinking.. My original intention was to just remove the 6p sleeves.. But....

What he did is actually fill the ports themselves with a teflon dowel, and grinded it down to make a smooth transition. Well, I'm not ready to bust the engine apart, so I was considering doing the same thing--just to the sleeves instead of the port itself. Then, I'd leave the sleeve in (no actuators)...

So..which should get me the best gains?

-Tesla

 

Ok, I'm not sure if I understand what you mean.

Filling the sleeves then grinding the insides down smooth to make a better transition? It seems to me that would just decrease your total fuel flow no matter which way you slice it?

 

Sounds like a good plan. PP13BNOS has the Pineapple Racing 6 port sleeves, which are basically that. You can use Nylon instead of teflon. Both have a melting point of ~500 degrees. Nylon will be easier to find and cheaper.

I plan on doing something similar to my engine, but I have a better idea. I have a 90 bock torn apart in my garage. I am going to make the nylon pieces in my exra block, pull them out, and push them into the block on my 90 GTU.

 

That's a pretty nice idea! Just be careful that it fits real snug in the new block...

So..you think doing this to the sleeves would be better than taking the sleeves out fully?

-Tesla

 

A big port doesn't insure good flow. If the velocity of the incoming mixture is slowed to much that big opening is useless. By reshaping the inside of the sleeve the velocity can be maintained and hopefully gain some power on the top end. I don't think there is much you can do to regain the lost mid-range torque when the sleeves are removed or wired open but the upper end has some potential.

These are ofcourse my opinions based mostly on what I've read on the forum and lots of technical documentation about porting intakes and exhaust ports with some two stroke exhaust information mixed in. I soon hope to start applying some of the juck cluttering up my brain.

Later