Nitrous Oxide- safe for RX-7?
03-25-02, 06:18 PM
#26
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Originally posted by scathcart
Here's the deal. Your "shaky ***" fuel injection system has nothing to do with wet nitrous. Only your fuel pump.
To be safe, take precautions:
-never hit nitrous below 3000 rpm
-never hit it nitrous to fuel cut
-install a Fuel pressure gauge, and get off the button if your fuel pressure drops AT ALL
-follow proper jettings, via the calculator at: http://cosmik.org/calculators.htm
-never go over an 80 shot on a stock-ported motor
-install wiring so it can only be activated at WOT
-mount the bottle properly, wire a bottle heater properly, and use a purge valve.
-make sure you have an ample fuel pump, and a clean fuel filter.
Its just common sense, if you know what you're doing. Make sure the nitrous shot also has enough fuel, and you'll be fine.
Sean
Here's the deal. Your "shaky ***" fuel injection system has nothing to do with wet nitrous. Only your fuel pump.
To be safe, take precautions:
-never hit nitrous below 3000 rpm
-never hit it nitrous to fuel cut
-install a Fuel pressure gauge, and get off the button if your fuel pressure drops AT ALL
-follow proper jettings, via the calculator at: http://cosmik.org/calculators.htm
-never go over an 80 shot on a stock-ported motor
-install wiring so it can only be activated at WOT
-mount the bottle properly, wire a bottle heater properly, and use a purge valve.
-make sure you have an ample fuel pump, and a clean fuel filter.
Its just common sense, if you know what you're doing. Make sure the nitrous shot also has enough fuel, and you'll be fine.
Sean
03-25-02, 06:57 PM
#27
I wish I was driving!
They don't want to pop their motors, they have to be cautious.
How cautious is it to make sure you have enough fuel, don't hit it too low, use the right jettings, and don't go overboard on your shots.
I'll agree purge valve may be over board, but I wouldn't run a Nitrous system without the rest.
Sean
How cautious is it to make sure you have enough fuel, don't hit it too low, use the right jettings, and don't go overboard on your shots.
I'll agree purge valve may be over board, but I wouldn't run a Nitrous system without the rest.
Sean
03-25-02, 08:01 PM
#28
Originally posted by scathcart
www.summitracing.com
go with a NOS brand, they work great.
I can get you a part number if you want, but look to pay $500 for a kit.
(Or build a direct port nitrous system yourself- he he.)
Most of the other kits are dry, like ZEX, and NOS has great history, lots of experience, and good selection of parts and great customer service.
Sean
www.summitracing.com
go with a NOS brand, they work great.
I can get you a part number if you want, but look to pay $500 for a kit.
(Or build a direct port nitrous system yourself- he he.)
Most of the other kits are dry, like ZEX, and NOS has great history, lots of experience, and good selection of parts and great customer service.
Sean
03-25-02, 09:52 PM
#30
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Originally posted by scathcart
They don't want to pop their motors, they have to be cautious.
How cautious is it to make sure you have enough fuel, don't hit it too low, use the right jettings, and don't go overboard on your shots.
I'll agree purge valve may be over board, but I wouldn't run a Nitrous system without the rest.
Sean
They don't want to pop their motors, they have to be cautious.
How cautious is it to make sure you have enough fuel, don't hit it too low, use the right jettings, and don't go overboard on your shots.
I'll agree purge valve may be over board, but I wouldn't run a Nitrous system without the rest.
Sean
-stock rotaries will take up to 100(125 if you got cojones, me). The port on the motor really doesnt matter. It is the condition of the rotors, apex seals, and engine balance. By simply having new stock mazda apex seals, and having a FULL blueprint and balance, you could hit it with a 250HP shot on a stock port(yes you would need a lot of fuel goodies, but it could be done)
- The bottle heater is not a necessity, it simply helps the density of the shot.
-You should always use a purge valve kit
- I go for an Air/Fuel ratio monitor, more important than the fuel pressure, but you should use both
03-25-02, 10:06 PM
#33
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Originally posted by scathcart
I agree it makes very little sense to do it, you can't run as much boost b/c of the higher compression, but you're wrong on the front and rear counterweight and flywheel thing. Bolting on a turbo does not change the internal balance of the motor. This would be necessary only if a TII drivetrain was installed, but not if you "just bolted a turbo onto an NA car".
Sean
I agree it makes very little sense to do it, you can't run as much boost b/c of the higher compression, but you're wrong on the front and rear counterweight and flywheel thing. Bolting on a turbo does not change the internal balance of the motor. This would be necessary only if a TII drivetrain was installed, but not if you "just bolted a turbo onto an NA car".
Sean
Justin
03-25-02, 10:44 PM
#34
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Originally posted by J-Rat
IS that the same system that they detailed in the FC3S.org web site? The one that the foggers plug into the intake??
IS that the same system that they detailed in the FC3S.org web site? The one that the foggers plug into the intake??
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