SevenDreamz

ALright guys well some of you may know my car already. I bought this car from Jaidedeye. It has the stage 3 N/A engine buildup. It has an aggressive streeport, and turbo housings. 3mm apex seals and lots of other performance mods. The car is really fast but I want a little more juice on this N/A engine before I build a turbo one. I just purchased ZEX WET KIT w/ 75hp shot and 100hp shots. I have been reading up, and using Nitrous on a Rotary feels like nothing else, from what I have read. I have heard that the Rotary can actually get more power than most cars from the same Nitrous kit. I also hear that Nitrous aint good for the Apex Seals cuz of its coolness, but is this for the 2mm Apex Seals. I mean I am not going to be hittin the Nitrous often. Really I am not....everyone always laughs when I say that. But I mean any help u guys could give me would be greatly appereciated...Thanks
Mike

locketine

nitrous, if used properly, will do just as much damage as a turbo. It's also a general engine builders rule that you un N/A ur engine before messing with nitrous. the 3mm seals don't effect nething, they are added usually to compensate for wear on the rotor housing.

import_rican

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/nitrous-oxide-injection-rotary-111605/

read this, don't know your knowledge of cars or nos but either way this might me helpful...

totallimmortal

A wet kit is fine if installed and used properly. personally I would think about a wideband o2 just to make sure your not running lean with nitrous

Jaared

http://1300cc.com/howto/how2/NOS.htm

read that. It covers what you need to know.

SDrotary-FC

start off with a 55hp shot

SevenDreamz

Why should I start w/ 55hp shot? Is 75hp shot to much?

OverDriven

I wouldn't go over a 75 on an N/A tranny. But yes, a 75 will be fine. BTW whatever you do, USE A WET KIT.

-Joe

SDrotary-FC

do not hit the rev limter

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Um...Wow. Everything above is wrong.

1. If used properly, nitrous will only wear the engine slightly faster. Neither nitrous nor a turbocharger really "damage" the engine unless misused.

2. What does "un NA ur engine" mean? Aside from adding forced induction.

3. 3MM seals are only marginally stronger then 2MM seals under detonation, but they are used to compensate for wear on the apex seal groove in the rotor. When housings are worn out, they are junked (or resurfaced as some people are currently working on).

If you don't know, don't post.

TURBO FC

yes, its a good idea to start with a 55 shot, you will need to relearn how fast you car accelerates so that you will not hit the rev limiter for too long. it really changes the time between shifts. if you not ready for it, it will be there before you know it.. ive gone over a 75 shot on my n/a tranny, it can hold it. just keep in mind the age of our cars, if your tranny is iffy to begin with, it is possble you can blow it out but i would not really worry about it. and dont just hit the nirtous from a dead stop, that can screw up your tranny too. but it can handle a 75+shot of nitrous(1st hand experience). my motor was also ported to hell and i was using two piece, 2mm apex seals. as far as wet over dry, ive have never dealt with a dry kit, so im not gonna tell you what to use.

WAYNE88N/A

Care to delve further into the "resurfacing of the rotor housings comment", Aaron? That sounds interesting...What do we do about the corrosion inherent in the 15 year-old + housings, though?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Check out the rotary performance section. There was someone there working on a process via some kind of spray on (possibly ceramic?). I have not looked into it for a month or two, so my memory fades (old age).

As for the corrosion...I doubt there's anything you can do about that.

Wait a sec...Here's the link: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=310805

WAYNE88N/A

Very nice read...I'm still concerned with hidden corrosion in the aluminum itself, and the exacting finished tolerances needed to satisfy OEM specs...Although, if the price is right, this might be the best thing since sliced bread Thanks for the link...

SevenDreamz

Thanks guys for everything. I will start with the 55hp shot and then work my way up to 75hp shot. I have 55hp jets, 65hp jets, 75hp jets and 100hp jets. My engine has about 12,000miles on it. Has anyone used 100hp shot? I know that must feel like someone just completely added a whole new 13B to your already exisiting engine. I have a ZEX WET KIT. I have heard about the Dry Kits and I steer clear of them. The kit has a switch and engages only when that switch is in the "on" position. I would not want a kit that always engages with WOT. I only want the Nitrous in use when I engage it. With this kit I will be in the high 8's in the 1/8. In the 1/8 now I run low and mid 9's. I dont know what I could be at using the 100hp shot, but then again thats probably pushing it.
Mike

locketine

1. wear and damage are very similar terms, sorry I didn't use perfect car grammar.

2. yes, your obvious guess is correct. for some reason I didn't think it was called forced injection when I was posting.

3. sorry about that one, I thought the apex seal grooves were on the housing and that the apex seals were attached to the rotor.

and I thought I did know....