newly assembled 13b, 3k idle ?
09-09-11, 02:25 PM
#5
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its most likely to be a vacuum leak if nothing else changed. possible the throttle cable is too tight.
09-09-11, 02:31 PM
#6
ok there is one spot it could be vac leaking, one of the bolts that holds the UIM to the spacer for the S5 LIM was drilled in the past to fit up, I think this spot needs a washer or something.
Could that really cause the idle to be that! high ?
Could that really cause the idle to be that! high ?
09-09-11, 03:16 PM
#7
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maybe. the AFM cars idle low with a leak because the AFM doesn't see it. the MAP sensor DOES see it, and without the TPS, it can't tell the difference between a vacuum leak, and you stepping on the gas
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09-10-11, 04:22 PM
#9
guys I need help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! racking my brains out here
engine starts and Immediately revs to 4k and sits there at 4 k idle.
I don't even have the throttle cable attached.
where can i start to figure this out?
TPS adjustment
power fc adjustment
engine starts and Immediately revs to 4k and sits there at 4 k idle.
I don't even have the throttle cable attached.
where can i start to figure this out?
TPS adjustment
power fc adjustment
09-10-11, 05:03 PM
#10
thermowax is stuck.
screw down the phillips screw on the back of the throttle body with the spring on it that faces directly up.
edit: oops nm, since you have an FD UIM. i'd suspect you have the air bleed screw backed out which is under the intake elbow, the idle set screw is screwed in too far or you have a relatively large vacuum leak like brake booster hose disconnected. spray around the engine with carb cleaner while it is running to check for leaks. if absolutely nothing changed in the intake setup then you pretty much have a vacuum leak guaranteed.
screw down the phillips screw on the back of the throttle body with the spring on it that faces directly up.
edit: oops nm, since you have an FD UIM. i'd suspect you have the air bleed screw backed out which is under the intake elbow, the idle set screw is screwed in too far or you have a relatively large vacuum leak like brake booster hose disconnected. spray around the engine with carb cleaner while it is running to check for leaks. if absolutely nothing changed in the intake setup then you pretty much have a vacuum leak guaranteed.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-10-11 at 05:09 PM.
09-10-11, 06:47 PM
#13
saw a rubber line that goes to the LIM off the brake booster was missing a hose clamp, just tighten that down, even though made no difference. I de-flooded the motor. Then I turned on the engine and let the engine run for under two mins while I filled the radiator with water.
the rpms started at 3,700rpm and kept going higher and higher, at just over 5k rpms when i figured enough was enough and turned it off.
I took this pic from the pfc while the engine was off, seems like the high lighted boxes are trying to tell me something
any ideas ?
the rpms started at 3,700rpm and kept going higher and higher, at just over 5k rpms when i figured enough was enough and turned it off.
I took this pic from the pfc while the engine was off, seems like the high lighted boxes are trying to tell me something
any ideas ?
09-10-11, 07:29 PM
#15
the oil metering pump has always been disconnected, even when the engine ran fine in the past
what can I do to get the throttle position sensor to read ??
i'm trying to understand this link, I got the volt meter out and have been following this link it is very technical to me and I don't know all these acronyms they use
http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/tps_adj.htm
(edit)
i have no clue how to use a volt meter or read the scale. ugh i'm lost
Can some one help me understand the link above? maybe in not such technical terms and with descriptions i can relate to
what can I do to get the throttle position sensor to read ??
i'm trying to understand this link, I got the volt meter out and have been following this link it is very technical to me and I don't know all these acronyms they use
http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/tps_adj.htm
(edit)
i have no clue how to use a volt meter or read the scale. ugh i'm lost
Can some one help me understand the link above? maybe in not such technical terms and with descriptions i can relate to
09-10-11, 10:39 PM
#18
today i did removed the two 7mm bolts holding the TPS on. That above picture of the pfc was with the connector unclipped and the tps physically removed from the car. I couldn't understand how to use the volt meter tool to check the TPS like many people have told me, I don't know exactly how to check this part using that tool. Any ideas where to go from here ?
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