NewbieMan

Ok here's my problems if someone could guide me through fixing them i also have the shop manual too if that helps someone in help me out thanks. THis might be long but i want my baby to run right.

PROBLEM #1

I'm having trouble tuning up my FC to proper running condition. I warmed up my car then hooked up a tachometer to read my idle, it's all over the place 600rpm to 900rpm for a couple of seconds the it jumps down to 300-400rpm for a couple of seconds the it jumps straight up to 1000rpm then back down to 600rpm again and just goes through that cycle over and over. I tried reseting the idle with the idle screw to see if it will smooth out but it does not stay anywhere near 750rpm. HOW DO I FIX MY IDLE SO IT RUNS SMOOTH AND DOESN'T JUMP ALLOVER?

PROBLEM #2

My clock light will work one day and not the next. It resets everytime i turn my car off, IS THAT NORMAL? Sometimes the door alarm will work other times it doesn't. Also when i push on my brakes the interioir lights will dim until i let off the brake. DO I NEED TO REPLACE ALL MY ELECTRICAL UNITS AND WIRES?

PROBLEM #3

I have a used AUTOMETER AIR/FUEL RATIO GAUGE with no instructions, it has three wires red,black and purple, pos/neg and O2 wire i assume. What is the proper way to wire my gauge so it reads right. Also what should it read then it's at idle?, what it reads then you step on it? and when it's at full throttle?

QUESTION

Does the drivers set not move as far up as the passengers, because mine doesn't is it broke?

PROBLEM #4

I'm having a huge trouble trying to pass my E-TEST does anyone have any advice on passing my E-TEST?

WHAT I'VE DONE TO FIX IT UP

- Sparl plugs
- Spark plug wires
- All new belts
- Pull out dead A/C pump and hoses
- All fluids except coolant
- New master cylinder and master slave for my clutch and hoses
- New fuel filter
- O2 sensor
- I only run Premium in it but i heard regular is fine is that true or should i just stick with premium?
- Shifter bushings
- K&N AIR FILTER

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Standard idle problems. Do a search. Long story short, check for any vacuum leaks, adjust your TPS and clean your BAC valve. DON'T mess with the idle screw until you have eliminated all problems.


Standard cold solder joints in the idiot light cluster. Read the FAQ and check the archives.


Likely caused by bad grounds, or if the car is running, the dirty BAC valve. Or a combination of the two.

Red to ignition switched 12V. Black to ground. Purple to O2 sensor (either at the sensor, or at the ECU...wiring diagrams in FAQ).

Idle = full lean
Decel = full lean
WOT = rich
Cruising = bouncing between full lean and full rich

I think they both have the same motion. Often, the tracks get rusted and gunked up. Give them a good cleaning and a coat of lithium based grease.

Make sure the car works properly.

Good start. But you need to fix the vacuum leaks, adjust your TPS and clean the BAC valve. Also make sure that your coolant temp sensor is reading properly (sensor is behind water pump...check the manual)


Run regular if it's an NA. The car will run better, it will be cheaper, and you'll make more power.

NewbieMan

it an 1987 not 1997 sorry still need help

NewbieMan

why run only regular on my n/a, and not premium, and how does it make more power on regular then prem?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Lower octane gasoline burns easier then higher octane (higher octane is more resistant to detonation, therefore tougher to light off). You won't get complete combustion using higher octane, and thus you will also get deposits that build up over time.