2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

new whip!!any one know how to pull a little bit more horse without a whole lot of $?

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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 09:27 AM
  #26  
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From: YYZ
Man, you guys in new york really do things differently.

Don't loose the VDI and 6PI systems. They're there to maximise airflow through the RPM range and keep your low end power (that's the basic idea).

For terms and more info, see 2nd gen sticky, common questions, and archive. It'll teach you a lot. For links to the FSM, parts fiche (exploded diagrams!), and training manual, follow links in my sig.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 11:45 AM
  #27  
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From: ny
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
This is an awesome way to lose power. If the aux port actuators are removed, the car will be slower. If the S5 VDI actuator is removed, the car will be MUCH slower.



This will be a power loss. You will suck in hot engine bay air and the panty hose are a terrible filter.
you have no idea what kind of power difference I got from taking out my port actuators..

I don't mean a kind of night and day difference
I MEAN WINTER AND SUMMER KIND OF DIFFERENCE

then again my port actuators were staying completely closed on their own. they wouldn't open up period so when i got my vert i had absolutely no power..
and when i took them out.. like i said

winter and summer
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 12:01 PM
  #28  
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From: NYC/T.O.
his actuators could be working........
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 12:59 PM
  #29  
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From my experience cause i too had an 88 vert...

right now

Full exhaust.. 2 1/2 headers 2 1/2 pipe...
Block off plates are ******* necessary
Take off all port actuators in the bottom and top intake.. just throw them the **** out...
intake.. and good spark plugs and good wires..

you should be alright with that.. that **** will do wonders for the car

but another thing the vert has a really ******* shitty rear..

get a new one.. from a turbo 2

either a 411 or a 430 i think..

rip out the ac power steering and some other garbage
and get a double altenator thing
and you will be more than satisfied trust me

block off plates = 50
new exhaust = like 150
Intake = free I just ripped all the boxes off and i have it running straight from the Mass Air Flow sensor with a panty hose over it
Rear = 150-200
and
you got yourself a way faster car
One of the worst posts I've ever seen.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 01:12 PM
  #30  
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From: ny
Originally Posted by Gringo Grande
One of the worst posts I've ever seen.
Man oh man, I wish all you guys talking **** could have drove my car before and after i did my work to it...
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 01:26 PM
  #31  
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From: clearview
no efence to any one on here,i am going to look into everything that i think it was NAking posted cus he did have the same car,im not saying im going to do all of it or keep it all on there,im defanitly not going to do the panty hose,i have intake pipeing out the ***,i just havent gotten around to building an intake yet.my buddy that knows alot more about these then me is on his way over right now so ill ask him about sum of this ****,maybe he can make sum sugjestions and make us all happy lol.ither way good looking out guys.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 01:48 PM
  #32  
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From: NYC/T.O.
Originally Posted by NaKing07
Man oh man, I wish all you guys talking **** could have drove my car before and after i did my work to it...
Gimme some working actuators and I'll bost your low end a little. Your high-end should be the same though.

If your actuators are working, DO NOT throw them out, unless you like even less low-end power for no gain on the top end. If actuators are stuck, FIX THE DAMN THINGS!
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 02:34 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by NaKing07
Man oh man, I wish all you guys talking **** could have drove my car before and after i did my work to it...
I hear amputating is a great treatment for gangrene too. Worked for the cooks on pirate ships. Saved lives.

OR, there are better ways that not only improve power like NaKing did but - unlike his way - gets the power as high as stock (wow, that high!). It's called actually fixing your car. Then after that you can upgrade and get even more power.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 03:04 PM
  #34  
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From: clearview
comon guys quit flameing on NAking,he mite not do it the same way as every one els,but if thats what worked for him,im not saying i dissagree with the fact that he should have just fixed his car then worreyd about power,im just saying lets stop with the hatein!
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 03:13 PM
  #35  
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This thread should have been closed from the first post.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 03:22 PM
  #36  
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From: YYZ
I'll say this in the nicest way possible. If your 6PI isn't working and your auxiliary valves are stuck closed or aren't opening, yes, you will get more top end power if you remove them. No one is arguing about that. All we're saying is the best way is to have the 6PI and VDI systems working to get the best of both worlds.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 04:13 PM
  #37  
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From: clearview
i hear what yall are saying,and i kind of know what you mean((ill edmit i am new to the rotary world)) and im just saying were a club,there is no reason to be hateing on eachother,we should just be abel to give tips pointer advise what ever with out any one getting heated or flameing on anyone.
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Old Feb 26, 2008 | 11:55 PM
  #38  
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To the thread starter: You should have known what you were buying. You see, the guy who got the honda very likely got the better deal. The vert is not a car to make more horse with, the Vert is a car for an enthusiast who lives in an area where one can actually use it, and for someone who does not mind the fact that it's slow. It is NOT like a honda, where you can do anything to any model, some of the stuff, like a T2 swap, require a steep learning curve, and sometimes are just not worth it to a lot of people! If you want to discover a good sports car, then please stay, and learn, there is only so much that has NOT been answered here.... and if you want a easily/cheaply tuneable ride, go get a Honda, or a B13 Sentra, or a DSM, or soemthing. This may not be a car you are looking for.

EDIT: But then it may be!

Last edited by Asterisk; Feb 27, 2008 at 12:02 AM.
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 12:04 AM
  #39  
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From: Jackson tn
Originally Posted by pfsantos
I'll say this in the nicest way possible. If your 6PI isn't working and your auxiliary valves are stuck closed or aren't opening, yes, you will get more top end power if you remove them. No one is arguing about that. All we're saying is the best way is to have the 6PI and VDI systems working to get the best of both worlds.
How do you know if they are working?
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 01:04 AM
  #40  
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From: clearview
man my chevorlegs is better then a honda or a nissan!and when im done with this ((cus i talked to sum one face to face that knew about cars)) i will personaly send you a video of me whooping any honda on the street with my vert.


Originally Posted by Asterisk
To the thread starter: You should have known what you were buying. You see, the guy who got the honda very likely got the better deal. The vert is not a car to make more horse with, the Vert is a car for an enthusiast who lives in an area where one can actually use it, and for someone who does not mind the fact that it's slow. It is NOT like a honda, where you can do anything to any model, some of the stuff, like a T2 swap, require a steep learning curve, and sometimes are just not worth it to a lot of people! If you want to discover a good sports car, then please stay, and learn, there is only so much that has NOT been answered here.... and if you want a easily/cheaply tuneable ride, go get a Honda, or a B13 Sentra, or a DSM, or soemthing. This may not be a car you are looking for.

EDIT: But then it may be!
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 02:29 AM
  #41  
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lol, im still learning a lot about the 7s, but i mean damn, why the hell would anybody think a panty hose would filter anything? that would be shitty for any type of car
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 07:37 AM
  #42  
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From: YYZ
Originally Posted by steven38305
How do you know if they are working?
Basically, you find the actuators, which have rods that turn the valves, and put grease on the rods that move in and out. Go for a drive, making sure to past their actuation point (about 3800 for 6PI, and 6800? for VDI) and see if the grease moved. It's kind of hard to explain without pics. and/or video.

You can have a look at the FSM and training manual (linked in sig.).
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