XtianLA

iTrader: (8)

Ok, so I picked up a nonrunning TII with a jdm 13bt in it as a project since my other car is done. Basically it has a JDM 13BT in it, and the previous owner didn't have time to finish the swap, so the engine and tranny are in, but to what point....I am not sure.

I played around with it today, charged the battery for a few hours up and as soon as I connected the poles I got major sparkage and slight melting of the poles. I DID not connect them to the wrong side, I know that for sure. So I played around with it more, it continued sparking...and then the headlights went down all by themselves. Before this, I would not get any lights at all when turning the key in the ignition, and I still don't yet somehow the headlights went down by themselves?

Is it possible that the starter is bad? I can get them for cheap, but I am just curious if anyone running a jdm13bt has experienced this problem before. My plan for now was just to trace the battery connections back through the engine bay and make sure everything is ok.

Any comments and suggestions are higly appreciated.

RETed

It sounds like major electrical problems with the vehicle.
I would recommend you get the electrical diagrams for the vehicle and start looking for shorts with a DMM.
If you have no idea how to do this, I would suggest finding a shop that is willing to do it for you.

With the motor, I would try and "hand crank" it to make sure it rotates freely.
Motors sitting around significantly can sometimes freeze up due to non-use.
Some motor oil or ATF can help a "frozen" engine.


-Ted

XtianLA

iTrader: (8)

Yea, that's what I thought to some degree Ted, lol. At least the internals are ok for now...lol

I'll probably order the new parts I need today if I have enough time to look for the shorts with the multi-meter. We might have the diagrams somewhere at the shop, but if not I guess that's another thing I have to check for.

Thanks though

Kingofl337

Check and make sure the alternator and starter are connected. Could be those leads aren't connected and if they touch ground you could get what you described. They aren't fused either. You can also try and pull all the fuses in the engine bay fuse box and try and connect the terminal. You shouldn't get any kind of reaction electricly. If you do check the wiring for the items mentioned above.

Icemark

Sure sounds like the battery got hooked up backwards.. it is a very very common thing on new RX-7 owners as the battery terminals are backwards to most other cars.

I know you claim you didn't, but how do you know you didn't??? What battery terminal did the black w/ yellow stripe get hooked to??? The + or -???

XtianLA

iTrader: (8)

Black to negative pole (-)
Red to positive pole (+)

Icemark

There is no stock red... there is black and black w/yellow stripe for battery wires.

do you wish to try again???

XtianLA

iTrader: (8)

Hmm...would it be different on a JDM 13BT? That's how it is on mine, lol. I haven't have the chance today to trace them back to the starter solenoid. Maybe I should try switching them around?

XtianLA

iTrader: (8)

eagaw, edit, double post

XtianLA

iTrader: (8)

Ok, I'm a goof. The actual terminal of the all black wire is red, so I'm a dork and said that the cable was red as well. It is actual black with a yellow stripe that I'm connecting to the negative pole, and all black that I'm connecting to the positive pole.

It doesn't look like it'd fit any other way because only the blac with yellow reaches to the negative pole. It looks the same way in the Haynes Manual I have as well.

Sorry, lol.

Icemark

Yep, that should be correct

XtianLA

iTrader: (8)

Yep, lol, and for some reason it was still sparking. It's def gotta be an eletrical prob of some sort. I'll probably start with what RETed recommended.

Also, if the battery still sparks, yet I am getting nothing when I turn the key...is it possible it's a bad starter and it needs to be replaced?

EDIT:

Oh, and there is also no belt on the air pump. I see that it seems a lot of people take out their air pump, but smog laws are strict here so I am guessing I will need to have that working for sure. Will I at least be able to get her started without the air pump though?

Icemark

air pump won't matter for starting, but is required to pass CA emissions.

Disconnect the starter and see if you still have the sparking

XtianLA

iTrader: (8)

I didn't get to use the lift today, too busy. I'll update you tomorrow on if it still sparks or not.

XtianLA

iTrader: (8)

Ok Icemark, here's the update:

I got the car cranking. I believe something on the starter was touching wrong. All I did was disconnect the terminals, clean them a little, and then play with them, reconnected and the battery stopped sparking.

Then I still had no ignition....why? LOL, previous owner never finished his Turbo Timer install, so the wiring harness was only halfway connected. I disconnected the TT wiring harnesses, connecting the stock plus back to eacother and bingo, I now have electricity. My headlights work, idiot lights are like ALL lit up, lol, dash cluster works, etc, etc.

Now....the car is cranking, the spark plug wires connected to the rear rotor housing spark fine, the fronts however do not spark. I'm going to check the coils tomorrow and hopefully get this thing started.

Also, would you guys by any chance have pictures of the transmission mounts on the car as well as the crossmember? It looks like the previous owner didn't mount the engine and tranny in and they actually look crooked, lol. I dount it's a big deal since the car hasn't been driven in this condition. I'm hoping I can just unhook everthing that you would to pull a engine and perhaps shake the car so that everything mounts flush and correctly?

XtianLA

iTrader: (8)

bump

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

The motors and trannies in these cars DO sit at an angle, stock. They'll look like they face the drivers side more.

XtianLA

iTrader: (8)

Really? That's verry interesting, lol. It's kinda funny actually. Thanks for the info RR.

tecknomage

could be a bad battery

XtianLA

iTrader: (8)

I don't think it would be the battery, because I still have power, headlights work, idiot lights work, trailing leads spark, etc.

XtianLA

iTrader: (8)

UPDATE ON MY CAR:

It seems as though the leading coil has gone bad....or maybe not? I checked with the ohmmeter and the coil is reading .7ohms
My Haynes manual said it should read .2 to about 1ohm

The two high tension leads connected to the leading coil do not spark at all, so either the leads are bad...or some how I misread the resistance on the leading coil.

Well, that looked all fine and dandy, and she crankys beautifully. I know she wants to start really badly. The motor sounds like it has plenty of compression.

Anyways...to top of the sadness I called a dealership to get a quote on the leading coil....$500

I had to repeat it back to the guy. I was in utter disbelief when I heard that. A low mileage 13BT can be had for that price.....yet it still costs $500!!!! W T H!!!

Well, that's the story for now. If anyone would like to chime in with any ideas please do, I would appreciate it.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Uhm...used coil? Have you checked to see if the coil is getting voltage (black/yellow wire is 12vdc+)? IS the trailing working? Is your tach needle bouncing during cranking?

RETed

Used coils are cheap.
Check the For Sale sections in here.


-Ted

XtianLA

iTrader: (8)

RR, coil is getting voltage. I checked that as well. The trailing is working as well. Tach needle bounces during cranking also.

My only problem with buying a used coil off the forums is...what if they don't work? From someone like you I'd trust because you run a rotary shop. Maybe I can pick some up cheap from a local scrap yard.

XtianLA

iTrader: (8)

bump