New throttle body isn't the same as old one
10-18-10, 07:27 PM
#28
Yes, still have ACV.
New update. Apparently my car has to actually be running for the TPS to be adjusted properly?? I'd warm the car up, and set it to one volt with the key on and the engine off. Then as soon as the engine was running, the voltage would drop to 600mV. So I adjusted it with the engine running to one volt, and voila, no more bouncing idle... but why?
My next problem is the idle is stable, but I can't get it lower than 1800 rpms. If I shut the idle screw all the way on the BAC, it drops to maybe 1200.
I was unable to locate any vacuum leaks.
So how do I go about shutting the throttle plates more?
New update. Apparently my car has to actually be running for the TPS to be adjusted properly?? I'd warm the car up, and set it to one volt with the key on and the engine off. Then as soon as the engine was running, the voltage would drop to 600mV. So I adjusted it with the engine running to one volt, and voila, no more bouncing idle... but why?
My next problem is the idle is stable, but I can't get it lower than 1800 rpms. If I shut the idle screw all the way on the BAC, it drops to maybe 1200.
I was unable to locate any vacuum leaks.
So how do I go about shutting the throttle plates more?
10-19-10, 08:08 AM
#32
^^haha, apparently.
I made a franken-tb though. I took some of the better functioning parts of the new TB and put them on the old TB. Mostly the two dampeners that keep the secondaries from opening too quickly and the one that shuts the throttle easily. So now the throttle feels a bit different, but it's much smoother.
After replacing my primary injectors as well, AFR's are way more stable. I'm very happy
I made a franken-tb though. I took some of the better functioning parts of the new TB and put them on the old TB. Mostly the two dampeners that keep the secondaries from opening too quickly and the one that shuts the throttle easily. So now the throttle feels a bit different, but it's much smoother.
After replacing my primary injectors as well, AFR's are way more stable. I'm very happy
10-22-10, 12:33 AM
#33
My car is back to being up to no good... 
Ugh... Idle stays high till I put the AC on, then it drops down to normal. Take the Ac off and it stays normal until I touch the gas.. bah..
Seems like i runs better in the morning than the afternoon too... Runs a little leaner when it's warm out..
Ugh... Idle stays high till I put the AC on, then it drops down to normal. Take the Ac off and it stays normal until I touch the gas.. bah..Seems like i runs better in the morning than the afternoon too... Runs a little leaner when it's warm out..
10-22-10, 09:56 AM
#34
What is the idle rpm that you currently have and how much does it drop to when the A/C is activated and do you have the BAC installed? Remember the stop screw that snapped on the other throttle body? How about adjusting that screw on the current throttle body to close the primary throttle plates a bit.
10-23-10, 11:06 AM
#35
My idle sits perfectly at around 800 when the car is functioning normally. When I turn on the AC it actually idles up to around 900. Still have the BAC. When the idle goes all nutty, and hovers around 1200, turning on the AC drops it down to ~800. I'm thinking the BAC may be sticky or something..
10-23-10, 11:29 AM
#36
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id suswpect your BAC "When the idle goes all nutty, and hovers around 1200, turning on the AC drops it down to ~800."
but why the idle goes all nutty i doubt the BAC would be the root of that part of the problem.
but why the idle goes all nutty i doubt the BAC would be the root of that part of the problem.
11-02-10, 06:52 PM
#39
Ok, so ran with no BAC for a few days. Made no difference.
A couple of things I noticed. It doesn't mis-bahave when it's cooler in the morning (been about 65 in the morning here). In the afternoon when I'm driving home when its around 90 is when the problems arise. What also leads me to believe it's temperature related is that when it does act funny the shifter gets hot. Normally it just feels warm to the touch.
Is it IAT? Or something else? The car doesn't "seem" to be overheating, as I shot the irons and housings with an IR temp gun and they were around 160-180. The thermostat neck was about 180. So I'm not sure what to check next...
A couple of things I noticed. It doesn't mis-bahave when it's cooler in the morning (been about 65 in the morning here). In the afternoon when I'm driving home when its around 90 is when the problems arise. What also leads me to believe it's temperature related is that when it does act funny the shifter gets hot. Normally it just feels warm to the touch.
Is it IAT? Or something else? The car doesn't "seem" to be overheating, as I shot the irons and housings with an IR temp gun and they were around 160-180. The thermostat neck was about 180. So I'm not sure what to check next...
11-02-10, 10:18 PM
#41
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Ok, so ran with no BAC for a few days. Made no difference.
A couple of things I noticed. It doesn't mis-bahave when it's cooler in the morning (been about 65 in the morning here). In the afternoon when I'm driving home when its around 90 is when the problems arise. What also leads me to believe it's temperature related is that when it does act funny the shifter gets hot. Normally it just feels warm to the touch.
Is it IAT? Or something else? The car doesn't "seem" to be overheating, as I shot the irons and housings with an IR temp gun and they were around 160-180. The thermostat neck was about 180. So I'm not sure what to check next...
A couple of things I noticed. It doesn't mis-bahave when it's cooler in the morning (been about 65 in the morning here). In the afternoon when I'm driving home when its around 90 is when the problems arise. What also leads me to believe it's temperature related is that when it does act funny the shifter gets hot. Normally it just feels warm to the touch.
Is it IAT? Or something else? The car doesn't "seem" to be overheating, as I shot the irons and housings with an IR temp gun and they were around 160-180. The thermostat neck was about 180. So I'm not sure what to check next...
when the engine is cold it literally pushes the throttle open, which is why the car needs to be hot to adjust the TPS.
if there is air in the water lines, of the thermowax pellet is just bad then it'll idle high, unless its really hot
11-02-10, 10:27 PM
#42
Thermowax is functioning properly. Fast idle works fine (albeit needs some more adjusting). The idle problem is a "sticky" thing.
I'm really starting to thing it's got something to do with IAT's. If I idle the car for long enough it starts to run pretty bad. Driving around, it seems to make it better (when it's cool enough out).
Satch, how do I go about doing that? Is it explained in the FSM?
I'm really starting to thing it's got something to do with IAT's. If I idle the car for long enough it starts to run pretty bad. Driving around, it seems to make it better (when it's cool enough out).
Satch, how do I go about doing that? Is it explained in the FSM?
11-02-10, 11:30 PM
#45
Thermowax is functioning properly. Fast idle works fine (albeit needs some more adjusting). The idle problem is a "sticky" thing.
I'm really starting to thing it's got something to do with IAT's. If I idle the car for long enough it starts to run pretty bad. Driving around, it seems to make it better (when it's cool enough out).
Satch, how do I go about doing that? Is it explained in the FSM?
I'm really starting to thing it's got something to do with IAT's. If I idle the car for long enough it starts to run pretty bad. Driving around, it seems to make it better (when it's cool enough out).
Satch, how do I go about doing that? Is it explained in the FSM?
11-17-10, 12:02 PM
#46
Update....
Re-adjusted the TPS and the idle seems to have improved a bit. Although then I put the car in gear it leans out again (not sure why having the car in gear effects the idle???). For example, at idle, the AFR's bounce around 16-18. With the car in gear (sitting still) they bounce between 19-20 when the car is warmed up (and it begins to feel like its actually leaning out).
I did discover something when I was poking around for vacuum leaks.. The TID was completely loose... So I'm assuming it was allowing lots of un-metered air into the turbo. I tightened it all the way down, and its still a tad loose. I'm assuming the heat from the turbo and whatnot over 20 years has probably hardened the plastic a bit. Am I correct in assuming that ANY movement of TID on the turbo is bad? (I'm looking for an excuse to upgrade to corksports aluminum TID, lol)
Re-adjusted the TPS and the idle seems to have improved a bit. Although then I put the car in gear it leans out again (not sure why having the car in gear effects the idle???). For example, at idle, the AFR's bounce around 16-18. With the car in gear (sitting still) they bounce between 19-20 when the car is warmed up (and it begins to feel like its actually leaning out).
I did discover something when I was poking around for vacuum leaks.. The TID was completely loose... So I'm assuming it was allowing lots of un-metered air into the turbo. I tightened it all the way down, and its still a tad loose. I'm assuming the heat from the turbo and whatnot over 20 years has probably hardened the plastic a bit. Am I correct in assuming that ANY movement of TID on the turbo is bad? (I'm looking for an excuse to upgrade to corksports aluminum TID, lol)
