2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 12:54 PM
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New to this site, need help.

Hey guys...I just purchased a 87 turbo II and the apex seals are gone on the second rotor. If Im mechanically incline...on a scale of 1-10, 10 the hardest, how would you scale rebuilding a 13b?

Also...what specialty tools will I need. If its too hard, where can I get a good priced rebuild?


I know...I know, new guy and already asking a bunch of questions... Thanks!
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 01:22 PM
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From: Everywhere, Nowhere
Get this video Overhauling the 13B Rotary and make the decsion yourself. They seem to be easy enough but you have to have an attention to detail and be prepared to buy a few parts.
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 02:51 PM
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Any idea as to how much...average I might be spending? I was searching around on this site and seen all sorts of numbers. Rebult kit (850.00)...I want to make sure this will last awhile and give me the ability to put more boost than stock.
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 03:02 PM
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And then there is the - Oops the rotor housing got gouged by the broken seal.
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 03:11 PM
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...and for that matter the turbo as well.

On a scale of 1-10, the build itself is about a 4. However, the cleaning, measuring, clearancing bump the whole project up to an 8 or so. There are a number of little "gotcha!" type things that can easily result in a 1000 mile engine. Seen it before. I would suggest you farm out the work to a competant rotary shop until you have more experience. Or take the risk and buy a cheap J-spec engine.

Generally with rebuilds, the words "cheap" and "good" should not be used in the same sentence, unless you are saying "cheap rebuilds aren't very good".
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 04:22 PM
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Originally posted by Aaron Cake
...and for that matter the turbo as well.

On a scale of 1-10, the build itself is about a 4. However, the cleaning, measuring, clearancing bump the whole project up to an 8 or so. There are a number of little "gotcha!" type things that can easily result in a 1000 mile engine. Seen it before. I would suggest you farm out the work to a competant rotary shop until you have more experience. Or take the risk and buy a cheap J-spec engine.

Generally with rebuilds, the words "cheap" and "good" should not be used in the same sentence, unless you are saying "cheap rebuilds aren't very good".
Ok...you got me on the cheap thing. I imagine with the "gotcha" things, a large part has to do with scaring and mis calc when measuring wear? I want to do the 3mm apex seals and purhaps the street porting. If I have rebuilt other motors...you think I have a better chance at something more than a 1k motor?
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 04:27 PM
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From: GA
honestly there two routes I would recommend, one getting a used Jspec motor, I got mine with tranny shipped to my door step, or two getting someone else to help you do it that has done it before. Like Aaron said, the rotary has a lot of things that is picky about, and for a good rebuild kit, spend the money it's well worth to go the extra mile for these engines...
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 04:28 PM
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oh yeah, I paid 850 for the engine, tranny, and all of the engine accessories(sp)... for you it would be a drop in, and you would have an extra tranny, my engine only came with about 35-40,000 miles too
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Old Jul 14, 2004 | 10:17 AM
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Originally posted by import_rican
oh yeah, I paid 850 for the engine, tranny, and all of the engine accessories(sp)... for you it would be a drop in, and you would have an extra tranny, my engine only came with about 35-40,000 miles too
Wow! Thats not bad. If I did that...at least I would have the car on the road...then I could rebuild the other. Where did you get your motor?
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