New shoes and a clutch in the mail... and randomness
New shoes and a clutch in the mail... and randomness
Now that I have a new job, I can actually afford to buy new parts for my car. Yay.
I got a new set of 225/50/15 Hankook Ventus RS-2s. I haven't finished breaking them in yet (200 miles left) so I can't say much about the performance yet, but now that I have a GPS, I know that my speedo is pretty damn off (5 MPH slower at 70 MPH)... then again, even with the stock tire size it wasn't right (it was off by slightly less), albeit with worn out tires.
Wal Mart wouldn't install them because they aren't 205s, but of course small shops will (for slightly more money)... watching them, it looks like they were a bitch to shoehorn on to the 6" wide wheels, but they don't really look that buldgey or anything (just makes for better protection for the rim).
Also, it turns out one of my wheels is *still* warped dispite paying a rim repair guy 60 bucks to fix it, which finally explains the wobbly feeling at low speeds.
I've also got an ACT S/S clutch in the mail with a new stainless clutch line, so FINALLY my clutch issues should go away... and then some.
I've also got a few other bits, like competition engine mounts for the hell of it, new window seals, and new rubber stoppers for the clutch and brake pedal (they tend to rot and break eventually).
On another note, I kind of broke one of my wiper arms by accidentally sheering the splines... So never try to move the wipers into position.
Also, out of pure luck I realized that the vacuum cap that I blocked off the accelerated warmup system was COMPLETELY rotted due to the heat... I replaced it for now, but I guess I need to get a silicone one because this one isn't going to last any longer. My issue with the CONSTANT thumping noise, which I now think is probably backfiring seemed to go away for a few minutes, so I think maybe the other vacuum cap under the UIM is probably rotted out to, so maybe if I just block them off with JB weld the problem will go away forever.
Next up after the clutch and engine mount install... teflon brake lines...and then some new shocks.
(I'm also severely overdue for an oil change... hmm...)
I got a new set of 225/50/15 Hankook Ventus RS-2s. I haven't finished breaking them in yet (200 miles left) so I can't say much about the performance yet, but now that I have a GPS, I know that my speedo is pretty damn off (5 MPH slower at 70 MPH)... then again, even with the stock tire size it wasn't right (it was off by slightly less), albeit with worn out tires.
Wal Mart wouldn't install them because they aren't 205s, but of course small shops will (for slightly more money)... watching them, it looks like they were a bitch to shoehorn on to the 6" wide wheels, but they don't really look that buldgey or anything (just makes for better protection for the rim).
Also, it turns out one of my wheels is *still* warped dispite paying a rim repair guy 60 bucks to fix it, which finally explains the wobbly feeling at low speeds.
I've also got an ACT S/S clutch in the mail with a new stainless clutch line, so FINALLY my clutch issues should go away... and then some.
I've also got a few other bits, like competition engine mounts for the hell of it, new window seals, and new rubber stoppers for the clutch and brake pedal (they tend to rot and break eventually).
On another note, I kind of broke one of my wiper arms by accidentally sheering the splines... So never try to move the wipers into position.
Also, out of pure luck I realized that the vacuum cap that I blocked off the accelerated warmup system was COMPLETELY rotted due to the heat... I replaced it for now, but I guess I need to get a silicone one because this one isn't going to last any longer. My issue with the CONSTANT thumping noise, which I now think is probably backfiring seemed to go away for a few minutes, so I think maybe the other vacuum cap under the UIM is probably rotted out to, so maybe if I just block them off with JB weld the problem will go away forever.
Next up after the clutch and engine mount install... teflon brake lines...and then some new shocks.
(I'm also severely overdue for an oil change... hmm...)
Well, it's not only important in terms of driving technique, but it also raises the disengagement point, which means you can use a spacer on the clutch stopper like I have with fewer issues involving getting into first and reverse when stopped... but
I imagine it also makes setting clutch pedal freeplay much easier.
Also, I kind of twisted my stock line up which I didn't realize was a no-no, which might explain why my clutch hydraulics are so wonky at the moment (besides the clutch itself being totally worn out).
once I get all the parts I'm going to go back and get all the clutch adjustments dialed in properly, without having too much free play and without burning the clutch out from not having enough.
On another note, I just went and checked my VDI and 6PI system, and I'll be damned if the 6PI valves aren't gummed up again. FREAKIN A. Now I need to get an LIM gasket... This is what I get for not greasing them before I installed them last time (I greased the VDI and it still turns easily). I think I've done every repair job on my car about 3 times each, and get it wrong a good amount of the time (ie, DON'T use RTV on the water pump... you'll get bits in the coolant, and it's probably going to leak).
I imagine it also makes setting clutch pedal freeplay much easier.
Also, I kind of twisted my stock line up which I didn't realize was a no-no, which might explain why my clutch hydraulics are so wonky at the moment (besides the clutch itself being totally worn out).
once I get all the parts I'm going to go back and get all the clutch adjustments dialed in properly, without having too much free play and without burning the clutch out from not having enough.
On another note, I just went and checked my VDI and 6PI system, and I'll be damned if the 6PI valves aren't gummed up again. FREAKIN A. Now I need to get an LIM gasket... This is what I get for not greasing them before I installed them last time (I greased the VDI and it still turns easily). I think I've done every repair job on my car about 3 times each, and get it wrong a good amount of the time (ie, DON'T use RTV on the water pump... you'll get bits in the coolant, and it's probably going to leak).
I'm just teasing. I guess it doesn't really cost any more than stock, so there's nothing to loose, but I'll be willing to bet that there's NO perceivable difference between an SS clutch line and a new stock one. It's just a bling-bling mod.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
hey..if you want to Fix that wiper..IN A PINCH..JB weld will work..When you put it on and get the Position of it,pull it Off.apply the Weld and Put it back on and let it set!..Congrats on your New Stuff,I wish I could actually go back to work(disabled injury)..I Hate fixed income..I want More STUFF!..(TOO!).
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It's something I saw someone say on the miata.net forum, and I thought it was terribly funny, and terribly good at showing the pointlessness of it. Feel is the reason the people use to justify SS brake lines, but feel isn't really an issue with a clutch. In this case it needed to be replaced anyway, and the prices are comparable, so there's not really any reason not to do so, but to say that it's some sort of improvement over a new stock one is taking it too far IMHO.
Hankook said they'd fit, and they do. They were just a bitch to get on, apparently (they didn't complain to me, it just took them a few minutes to get each tire on).
It basically looks like a 205 on the rim, just with even more of a rim protector.
It basically looks like a 205 on the rim, just with even more of a rim protector.
Wow, that was a long day... I went to a self-service junk yard about 50 miles out and they had FOUR FCs, ALL of them GXLs... 2 S4, and 2 S5.
So I snatched a full set of new four-pot calipers and vented rear calipers, but I didn't feel like messing with the vented rotors (I'll just get new ones...).
I was tempted by the rear wiper hatches, but I can't exactly carry one of those in my FC... no aluminum hoods this time though.
I also got some...profitable parts which I'm going to hawk in the for sale section...lol
(doh, I just remembered that I forgot to check for the stock fog lights on one of the S5s... they were already gone on the other one)
So I snatched a full set of new four-pot calipers and vented rear calipers, but I didn't feel like messing with the vented rotors (I'll just get new ones...).
I was tempted by the rear wiper hatches, but I can't exactly carry one of those in my FC... no aluminum hoods this time though.
I also got some...profitable parts which I'm going to hawk in the for sale section...lol
(doh, I just remembered that I forgot to check for the stock fog lights on one of the S5s... they were already gone on the other one)
Does anyone know if the S4 power steering is compatible with the S5?
I wanted to convert to the speed-sensing faster ratio steering, although I don't know what I'll need to get... or is it just pump, rack, lines, and computer?
Also, what the heck does the computer in the back of the S5 GXL do? I had no idea there was a CPU back there.
Now I have to choose what kind of brake pads I want for my four-pot swap... the calipers are painted silver and looking newer than they should be considering they came off a car with 219,000 miles. I should probably replace the boots at least...
I wanted to convert to the speed-sensing faster ratio steering, although I don't know what I'll need to get... or is it just pump, rack, lines, and computer?
Also, what the heck does the computer in the back of the S5 GXL do? I had no idea there was a CPU back there.
Now I have to choose what kind of brake pads I want for my four-pot swap... the calipers are painted silver and looking newer than they should be considering they came off a car with 219,000 miles. I should probably replace the boots at least...
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