rajien2

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys I just got my first rx7 home, first off when I got to the guys house I sat in the car and started it right up now the only problem when it falls below 3500rpm it dies. So I had my more experienced father drive the car we got about 6 miles and the car died at the stop light. We pushed to the side of the road, the guy put a switch on the fuel pump he said it was for a mod he couldn't finish something about oil right in to the gas tank. Well about 4 mins of pulling the egi fuse and unflooding, the car started but as soon as I got out to let my dad drive again he couldn't get it to start it would sputter and die over and over so we pulled it. Well when he was pulling me I put the car in 4th gear and let the clutch out slowly the car started up but i had to keep it over 3500rpm. How can I fix this?

My new $700 rx7 TII

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

any pics of the engine bay? mods? this could be a number of things

What was the guy's original asking price?

rajien2

iTrader: (1)

yeah it was, tell me what part of the bay you need pics of?

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Could be a few things...vacuum leak, TPS out of adjustment, etc. Before you mess with too many things, find out from the previous owner about anything he's modified, more info about the switch (could be just a fuel cut switch to help with unflooding, because of leaking injectors or low compression). Oil in the gas thing - did he disable the oil metering pump and now the car runs pre-mix? More info is needed, but like I said, look for anything that doesn't look factory, check for vacuum leaks, anything unplugged (pics.) and we'll see. Didn't see how many km/miles...and is this an original TII or a swap?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

It's missing the airbox and filter.

Looks like the metering oil pump is gone. It will need to be premixed.

There seems to be a Mazdatrix fuel pressure bleed kit installed. This could indicate that the car had an injector problem and was prone to flooding. If the injectors are leaking or sticky, that can explain your troubles.

rajien2

iTrader: (1)

okay, the car has 147,000 miles. The guy said he dident finish the mod with the oil but gave me a chip of some kind with a male and female plug on it. The guy said the compression test came back average on both ends. Now when I start the car it fires right up for about 1 sec and then kills its self. he said he removed all the emission stuff if that has anything to do with this problem. Is there a way to tell if the injectors are bad by just pulling them off and looking at them?

rajien2

iTrader: (1)

okay new problem, I fixed the idle it was the fact that the intercooler was not all the way on. It started and idled but when I shut her down the electric fan in the back stays on and will turn over but no fire? what happened?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Probably what was pointed out already. The car likely has had major flooding problems, which is why it has a fuel cut switch and the Mazdatrix fuel pressure bleed kit (the brass fittings next to the oil filter). Servicing the injectors locally or through a company like witchhunter (www.witchhunter.com) should be a priority.

Also, your intercooler mounting bolts are missing, so don't be surprised if it vibrates and eventually creates another leak. You can add replacement bolts to the list along with a radiator fan shroud and an air filter.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

About the electric fan, its for the A/C system (which doesn't appear to be functional) and there is a sensor on top of the thermostat housing. When mine broke, the fan would stay running all the time. It doesn't look like the wire/connector is broken on yours, but check the connection.

As previously mentioned, your cranking problems are most likely the result of leaky/stuck injectors, clogs in the fuel delivery system (fuel filter/in-tank filter/fuel pump etc), low compression, or some combination of the 3. Search "deflooding procedure" and try that out, it should get you started.

And for Pete's sake please get an air filter! I had a buddy who thought it would be cool to drive around w/o one (on the interstate mind you) and the results were NOT pretty.

rajien2

iTrader: (1)

Ok I did the whole unflooding thing, put the aft in the spark plug. turned it over and nothing happened. I pull the whole plug out and tested it with the volt tester and even by holding it. I have no power going to my coils, my fuses are all good and this all started happening the same time the efan started acting up. does any one know why this would be happening?

HAILERS2

When the EGI fuse is pulled, the aux fan comes on due to a relay relaxing in the Engine Fail Unit. Fix fuse.

No fan shroud is not a good deal/idea.

Aux fan will also come on if the green/black wire on the thermostat housing fan switch is removed. Green/Black wire removed will not stop the engine from starting. A bad/blown EGI fuse will keep the car from starting indefinelty.

How about a couple of pictures of the areas in the red and blue boxes in the attached jpg?

rajien2

iTrader: (1)

No Luck I tryed all whole new fuse and no luck i even replace the whole fuse box with one off of my old car.

rajien2

iTrader: (1)

Okay noob question, Is the only fuse box on a rx7 in the engine bay or im I missing something?

rajien2

iTrader: (1)

First test drive done thx for help guys it was the inside fuse box engine 15

HAILERS2

You really, really should get a air filter for the AFM/car.

ENGINE fuse powers the MAIN RELAY and the fuel pump power. Kinda vital for running.

OMP rod and OMP oil lines SEEM to be intact in the jpgs above.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

That dirty engine bay combined with the lack of a filter makes me cringe. That's just asking for trouble. Besides sucking all sorts of debris into the engine, the AFM will bounce around and loosen the TID connection to the turbo. This will A) make the idle go to hell, and B) potentially make the TID fall completely off while driving.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

I have an air box w/ everything if you'd like to buy it. Say, $15 plus shipping?

And i'm pretty sure I have a fan shroud too. Buy them both, it'll ship in the same box, save on shipping!!


Whoa. Are you aware that there's a spark plug plugging one of your hoses!??
If that's the way you bought the car, then just stand by. You're probably going to run into all kinds of retard-fixes while working on this thing!

rajien2

iTrader: (1)

Hey thank you guys for all the support, I have a air box I just have to set it in. When on my test drive when you go to gun the car it is really slow getting up over 2000rpm but as soon as you hit 6500 it just kicks hard. Would the car not being tuned cause this? Where would you take your car to get tuned up and what is the average cost? Do you guys think i need to premix oil?

Thank you

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You need to premix if you don't have the metering oil pump installed.

So the car is flat on it's face until 6500 RPM? Does it make boost?

A full tuneup is definitely warranted. There is no question about it. The history of the car is unknown so all systems have to be examined.

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/buy1.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/buy2.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/newowner.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/unstore.htm

Have the injectors professionally serviced.

Barnett87GXL

iTrader: (2)

your should put that air filter soon , not good at all to run without one

rajien2

iTrader: (1)

air filter going on today, No boost why is that? thanks

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Possibly a large boost leak. Something that is sealing under vacuum, but allowing air to escape under pressure.

You need to inspect the entire engine bay thoroughly & take things apart. Replace the spark plugs, get the injectors serviced, replace ALL coolant and vacuum lines, do an oil change, flush the cooling system, etc...

rajien2

iTrader: (1)

Replaceing all the vac lines is no simple task looking under my hood for the first time I have a running car. Is there like a guide to finding all the vac lines or I'm I makeing this harder then it needs to be? The plugs are new along with the wires and fluids

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

A guide? That'd be the FSM. Or you can search the forum for colored vacuum diagrams to help put everything back where it's supposed to go. You'll have to take the UIM off to get at the fuel injectors anyway, so buy a ton of 3.5mm vac hose and have at it (maybe 20-25 feet). A few feet of 6mm hose will come in handy too. You can find hose locally of through online vendors like this one: http://www.stylinmotors.com/vacuumhose.html

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Jeez, don't you guys know that its mad JDM to run with no filter. The compressor on the turbo just chops up all those particles going in. Noobs.....