mrt0mjones

So for quite some time i've been working on the standard piston engine setups, getting tired of it.

something had always struck me as kickarse with these neat little cars so i wanted one, and after the 5th rebuild on my TT3kgt i finally found a GXL for 300 bucks that "wouldnt start"

brought her home, and cleared out the carbon, and away she went!


So, i plan on this being the fun little practice drift car.



What cool power adders (bolt on not turbo) can i add to this thing.

whats the best (stiffest) reasonably priced suspensions for this.

What supporting mods should i throw at the motor?

anything in this engine i dont need/want??? (weight reduction guys go crazy)


I appreciate all input, and its great to be in the community!

1988 GXL 5spd (red of course)

stevej88na

Check the community-maintained N/A Performance page. That page links to suspension, exhaust, power, weight reduction, throttle response, etc.

To quickly answer some of your questions though:

The most popular reasonably priced suspension is pairing KYB AGX adjustable gas shocks with Racing Beat springs and swaybars. As for power adders, the standard air/fuel in/out applies, but n/a rotaries respond best to "true duals" where each rotor has its own separate pipe from the exhaust port to muffler. You might also consider putting an S5 UIM on your S4 to gain another 15HP (the full how-to for that is linked to from that n/a performance page). Weight reduction in the engine bay would be the air pump, a/c, and power steering.

As a side note, anyone who has improvements for the performance page can and should update it. Some of the performance options aren't linked to, because their how-tos haven't been posted yet. Check the Requested How-Tos page, post one, and help the community!

mrt0mjones

i appreciate it, its exciting, i have to replace some one way vacuum lines (on the upper throttle set?) broke that...

:/ so many vacuum lines..

so much clearence!

vaughnc

Gotta love RWD, stuff a 4 rotor and still have room to work.

stevej88na

About the vacuum lines, if you do the famous TB mod and go more bare block, you can get rid of the whole solenoid rack and "rats nest" - you only need:

1. Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR): vacuum
2. Pressure (Boost) Sensor: vacuum
3. Fuel injector air bleeds: metered air in front of butterfly valves
4. Oil injector air bleeds: metered air in front of butterfly valves
5. Fuel lines: fuel

That comes directly from the vacuum and fuel routing section of the S5 UIM/S4 how-to; it has pictures and more info on it for you. The only one-way valve you need is the one for the oil injector air bleeds. Everyone breaks those old plasticy vacuum lines!

mrt0mjones

it was for the Tac i think?

this car wont idle for crap, i got the carbon all blown out, and now it just wont idle..

i painted it last night too gotta love two tone.

rx7 FC TII

iTrader: (3)

go find a factory service manual for your car and adjust the TPS...check the FAQ and search for the removal of the rats nest and emissions. i am also in the process of removing all the emissions it frees up alot of space, and looks alot neater and cleaner.....

#1 rule when stating that you got a rx7 is PICTURES we need some pics of this two tone paint

Rotarctica

Uh...it isn't by any chance red with silver ? And you didn't buy it off of Craigslist, did you? If so...I came close to buying that car. hehe...

mrt0mjones

yes, it was that car, and yes, it was just carbon, i got it from "sal" great guy for 350 bucks

i'm glad you didnt buy her, i wouldnt have this cool toy!



thats what she looked like when i bought her (rotarctica i'm sure you saw her like that)

and this is what she looks like now... the red looks almost orange :/



cool, i still cant get it to idle, but i can run it up to "redline" just fine, it pulls ok, and the suspension is so bouncy hahaha.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

full exhaust, clutch, and a heltech are the best mods you can do to a na for more power.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Modding and weight reduction should be about the same as a piston car, unless you want to rebuild the engine. Just search these forums for the same items you are used to. The RX-7's main strengths over other cars are light weight and handling.

Differences (search forums/FAQ for more info):
Rotaries are sensitive to overheats, knocking and oil. Make sure you have an OEM thermostat. Make sure your 5th & 6th ports still open if you put on a full exhaust (similar to VTEC). The engine can easily withstand high rpms. In fact, if you don't push the revs from time to time carbon will build up. If you rebuild the engine you can port the engine, balance the rotors, and/or upsize the apex seals to 3mm.



Common '86-'88 problems (search forums/FAQ for more info)::
Electrical gauges, buttons, etc.: solder. Leaky fuel pulsation dampener: replace, major fire hazard. Old rear wheel steering bushings: replace bushings + arms (come as a set only) or get RWS eliminator bushings.

Rotarctica

Yep, that's the car alright. The suspension being bouncy is funny...since he told me it was in great condition.

I had suspected carbon lock since it was his fiance` or something driving it (Oh, women..)

Did you paint the car yourself?

adrock3217

I'll be the first to say it -- that paint job looks HOT. I personally would have done it with white top, black bottom, with black accessories (wing, tints tails + side marker, door handle, mirrors). I think that would look SICK. But yours looks awesome too :-O


Rattle can?

mrt0mjones

yes, i painted it myself in about an hour, due to the fact it looked terrible with the silver trims and stuff.

thanks for the tips everyone, i hope to dig myself into this forum like i am in the 3kgt community, you are all pretty freakin cool .

the tire i replaced is still flattening out, so i might have to straited out the rim or something, maybe the bead was set like crap.

So, with the emissions stuff removed, and all, i'm pretty positive it wont pass at all so i may have to register it to my "getaway home" (friends house hah) so i can bypass that stuff.

when i start up the car i hear an odd beeping noise as if i'm backing up or something in a big truck? is this common with some of your cars (maybe this is an aftermarket alarm or something?)

The vacuum lines do suck, not fun at all..

whats the common idle error on these cars? is the maf a big problem on these? (the inside looks like it has calcium deposists or something??

other than that, thanks, and keep it coming!

Rotarctica

It's usually the TPS going out that causes the idle problem.. MAS on these cars from what I hear are pretty bulletproof.

mrt0mjones

can somone post a picture of the front of their throttle body, i think its missing some springs and such, (which may help to solving this idle shiat out) i was looking in the engine bay of an s5 tonight and the butterfly valve slings looked to be the same, but this one had more springs on it..

anyone???

mrt0mjones

hmmm, some of the springs are deffinately missing i think

where are the vac reduction guides, i wanna get rid of everything i can that i dont need it to run!?

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

the beeping is the p/s computer, i think.

stevej88na

Mr Tom,

Check post #5 on page 1 for the answer to your vac reduction. There's an itemized list and link to pictures. That assumes you removed the thermo wax and no.2 secondary throttle valves (which may have been done already due to your lack of springs: the "TB mod") and the whole vacuum solenoid assembly. For your convenience, here's the link.

stevej88na

Oops, I forgot to say it also assumes you removed all other emissions contraptions, like the ACV and EGR. Hope you don't have to pass smog.

mrt0mjones

i havent removed those, but would like to

Boostmaniac

They made these things without turbo's?.........




























I'm just playin man, NICE paint job on your car. Did you do it with a rattle can?

Keep up the good work and I hope you get this idle thing figured out... I know it sucks because I am having the same problem right now.

- Maniac

mrt0mjones

yes, i rattle canned that car, i have a little bit of body and paint experience so it came out better than even i thought it would.

i may have to boost this thing, and make a custom suspension, i want a rock hard rear.

may have to weld this diff too

this car will have some video footage too. i'm sure yall'd love some sideways action (apolagise to those who dont like drifting)

i'll start tearing into this vac stuff as soon as i get a chance (i'm working every single day, which sucks)..

mrt0mjones

where exactly are the instructions for removing the other emissions (not just the intake swap) or am i using my limited knowladge and not seeing it on that page?

stevej88na

Someone should post a how-to on GV for removing emissions, but it's pretty easy. Maybe I'll do it. Basically, to go bare-ish block (and keep the BAC!) you remove and block off the ACV and EGR, remove the solenoid rack, and do the TB mod to remove the thermo wax, fast idle cam, and water thermo valve assembly. At that point the only vacuum lines you need are as stated above. As for blocking off, a certain member likes the JB welded metal (i.e. VCR chassis) approach, but if you go the gasket method, Racing Beat has the ACV and EGR block-off plates under the category "Intake Components".