new rebuild-flooding
Thread Starter
...
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,539
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
new rebuild-flooding
Ok my engine is done and has been started back up, but it will only stay running for a second or so before it floods out. We're not sure if maybe my fuel computer has a bad connection or not or what. So my mechanic is going to resolder the connections to be sure. But is this common for the car to flood out after running for a second? Anything I can do to get it to stay running? For fuel mods I have a walbro, 4 720cc injectors, and an s-afc. We have the s-afc set all the way to -50% for 1000 and 2000rpms. Just wondering if this is real common. Should we pull start it maybe?
I heard rebuild for the first few times will flood like crazy because they don't have comression built up yet.
I'm guessing you might want to bump idle up and maybe check the timing a bit and make sure it's stabbed pretty well.
I don't think you can actually set the timting though because it will continuously fluctuate in the beginning.
I'm guessing you might want to bump idle up and maybe check the timing a bit and make sure it's stabbed pretty well.
I don't think you can actually set the timting though because it will continuously fluctuate in the beginning.
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 959
Likes: 0
From: Victoria, BC, Canada
I've only been toying with RX-7 engines for a couple of years now, but, I would say that your fuel delivery system is likely at fault.
Even if a newly rebuilt engine is low on compression ( which I believe is an over used excuse), it is not the lack of compression that is at fault but an over abundance of fuel.
IMHO, eliminate excess fuel delivery as the problem before "taking it for a pull"
FWIW, my newly rebuilt engine started in less then 3 seconds after the fuel systems was primed and settled into a normal 800RPM idle after it had warmed up. I believe that the key to my success was triple checking everything before saying "let give this a try" and not making any changes to the ignition or fuel system from before the engine was disassembled.
I'm not calling anybody's skill into question , just saying that most people introduce to many "new variables" into the mix when trying to start an engine for the first time. Better to use the original WORKING setup and then add the modifications later
Even if a newly rebuilt engine is low on compression ( which I believe is an over used excuse), it is not the lack of compression that is at fault but an over abundance of fuel.
IMHO, eliminate excess fuel delivery as the problem before "taking it for a pull"
FWIW, my newly rebuilt engine started in less then 3 seconds after the fuel systems was primed and settled into a normal 800RPM idle after it had warmed up. I believe that the key to my success was triple checking everything before saying "let give this a try" and not making any changes to the ignition or fuel system from before the engine was disassembled.
I'm not calling anybody's skill into question , just saying that most people introduce to many "new variables" into the mix when trying to start an engine for the first time. Better to use the original WORKING setup and then add the modifications later
Last edited by asherwood; Jan 20, 2004 at 10:20 PM.
Thread Starter
...
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,539
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
I understand what your saying. Only thing changed is the 720s in the primaries and then the fuel computer was disconnected from the wiring harness. I believe the S-AFC was put back in wrong myself. I'll be going to check tomorrow afternoon. If the S-AFC is set to -50% then I should, hopefully, cut those injectors in half.
