I did a N/A - TII swap in my 88. The j-spec blew up due to dirty injectors on the dyno while it was being tuned. Most likely i'm going to rebuild the motor or have it rebuilt. The question i have is how to you break in a motor when you have a standalone that isnt tuned? I have a microtech lt8.

 

E-mail them, or give them a call and see if they have any pre set maps for you.

 

It's just going to be running pig rich...it should be interesting to start.

Breakin should be the same as with the stock ECU none the less.

 

You know.. ive been wondering the same thing. My only guess is to use a reserved (ie more rich than needed) fuel map from a car with a similar setup as yourself. Sometimes for stock cars they have a premap you can follow then you customize it to your mods/needs.

 

I remember I replied to a question of yours In the Microtech Forum. I did the same conversion as you In the same car. Difference Is I had a freshly rebuilt Engine w/ cleaned FI's. We were conservative In taking fuel out at Idle and Cruise...I never bothered to get Into the Boost Maps on account of the Intention not to Boost. Aside from this, the LT8 comes with a Base Map anyway. Didn't yours?

 

I totally forgot that i'm going to be running 2 550's and two 1600's when it all goes back together. I guess i could just have all 4 550's cleaned instead of just two and run them untill i get the motor broken in. I would just imagine that the motor would kill if the secondaries kicked and they were 1600's not 550's like the base map is set-up for.

 

In that case, you need to change the %staging and change over the fuel maps...

 

i really wish i understood how to tune it. LOL

 

So do I at times...you just need to step back and look at the big picture and how each function effects the system.

Try a search for "1600" in the microtech forum, there's been quite a few threads on staging and even values if I'm not mistaken.

 

I wish it was as simple as that. I guess the real issue is that i dont understand the terms and functions at all. I can turn a mad wrench, and i can wire just about anything but tuning is totally greek to me. I'd really like to find some books that explain tuning efi and go from there. I think i'm missing some basic tuning knowledge that is holding me back from really understanding it.

 

Josepi is right, it will run ULTRA rich until its fine-tuned (that's what mine did at least). If you break in the motor on the Microtech base-map, buy about five extra sets of spark-plugs. My motor ate three sets of spark-plugs on the stock ECU during break-in!!

 

This is not recommended.
I had to do this ONCE, and it was a royal pain in the ***.
Running rich HURTS breaking in the seals.



-Ted

 

It hurts, like the seals or your eyes? Please continue

 

Oh yea, it may be the only option i have.

 

I think what reted is talking about is when you run rich the friction on the new seals against the old housing (or new, they'll still be unmatched for a while) is less than it tuned up which will take longer to break in and match the apex seals with the housing.

 

Maybe i'll just have to buy a wideband, and figure out how to tune the damn microtech

 

If you're in as bad shape as you say, take it to a good shop that can tune these sort of things and have them charge you. Shouldnt be too bad but if it is, get a wideband. Just weigh your options.


If it were me I would use the base map for the 550 injectors and when you are typing in the % for the secondaries find out what percent 550 is of 1600 and subtract that number from the duration of the maped 550s so it compensates for the bigger injector. If its not that exactly its something close, I'm pretty sure they'll have something like that in the instructions, hell they might even do the math for you. I've never touched a microtech before though, so I cant tell you the specifics.

 

I'm not so worried about when the motor is broken in, i have no problem paying to have it tuned. setting up the injector p/w is not as easy as that.

 

You can leed a horse to water.........

 

Actually, the excess fuel doesn't allow the seals to bed in properly.
The fuel doesn't decrease friction; it actually increases friction.
The fuel washes away the engine oil that normal coats the seals.
The seals start to wear improperly, and this hinders compression from building up properly.

I had to recently do this with a Kouki FC 13BT with a Haltech, and I warned the owner this wasn't the best way to break in a brand new rebuilt motor; I did the rebuild on the motor myself.  I also told him any warranty is void, as this is a bad way of breaking in the engine properly; he agreed.  Luckily, I had a very good Haltech base map that allowed me to get the engine started and running with very little fuss, but it doesn't sound like you're in the same situation.



-Ted

 

Eh..... whichever

 

Right here on the 1600 FI's.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=1600

 

Swooshman,

Have you thought of having the engine broke-in on an brake dyno? I know SDJ Motorsport's engine dyno runs $500/day + fuel and oil expenses. Not cheap, but its fast (perhaps only a day) and probably the best way to break-in a fresh motor.

http://www.sdjmotorsports.com/Engine.htm

 

What about running premix for the break-in period? You'd have plenty of oil in there then.

 

I'm running premix all the time.