new manifold gaskets and PR sleves
new manifold gaskets and PR sleves
Would someone walk me through a how-to replace the gaskets on the intake? (S5 N/A)
I ordered new gaskets for the intakes and ACV and BAC.
I am getting the PR sleves.
I have done an extensive search...but cannot find the exact procedure for a how-to on the gaskets. I have a serious idle problem, and therefore will be replacing everything that has to do with idle (vac hoses, gaskets, etc.) This will be my first attempt at a gasket job, what are some of the tools I will need to get beforehand, so as not to be in the middle of the job and then realise I'm missing something important.
Also, what are the benefits to the TB mod? There are many posts about the how-to, and the negative aspects of a poor idle when the engine is cold, but what are the up side of the mod?
I ordered new gaskets for the intakes and ACV and BAC.
I am getting the PR sleves.
I have done an extensive search...but cannot find the exact procedure for a how-to on the gaskets. I have a serious idle problem, and therefore will be replacing everything that has to do with idle (vac hoses, gaskets, etc.) This will be my first attempt at a gasket job, what are some of the tools I will need to get beforehand, so as not to be in the middle of the job and then realise I'm missing something important.
Also, what are the benefits to the TB mod? There are many posts about the how-to, and the negative aspects of a poor idle when the engine is cold, but what are the up side of the mod?
...
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: Twin Cities, MN
Um... get a Haynes manual or FSM and it should be good enough to do the job 
Mind you, there are 2 horizontal bolts on the side by the VDI that aren't listed... but they hold that sumbitch in place.
Also, in addition to the 4 bolts/nuts that connect the VDI chamber to LIM, there are 2 hidden ones you can access from UNDER the car
.
Mind you, there are 2 horizontal bolts on the side by the VDI that aren't listed... but they hold that sumbitch in place.
Also, in addition to the 4 bolts/nuts that connect the VDI chamber to LIM, there are 2 hidden ones you can access from UNDER the car
.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Vienna, VA USA
i've done this twice -- a pain in the *** and time consuming, but not technically that difficult. It helps to have some "wobble" extensions for your ratchet set, because access to some of the bolts is difficult.
most important thing, IMHO, is to get a notebook and WRITE DOWN every step of disassembly as you do it, with corresponding numbers written on pieces of masking tape and attached to the nuts, bolts, hoses, assemblies, wiring connectors, etc. it is IMPOSSIBLE to remember how it all goes back together again. also draw yourself some pictures.
I followed the manuals for disassembly instructions, but roughly they were:
1) remove and label accelerator and cruise control cables.
2) remove and label vacuum hoses.
3) remove and label electrical connectors
4) remove and label fuel lines (don't do this while engine is warm! -- reduce pressure first by pulling fuse for fuel pump and cranking engine briefly.)
5) then start disassembling the actual components from the top of the intake path until you get as deep as you want.
6) as long as you're doing this, I would recommend changing all vacuum hoses (which, IMHO, are more likely to be leaking than the actual intake gaskets) and also do a close inspection of the fuel and water hoses leading to the top of the engine block, once you get there.
7) reassembly is the reverse, starting with the final number on your list!
two more hints: permatex spray-on gasket remover is good, (though nasty) for removing gaskets, and a 3M plastic paint remover that you chuck into a power drill is also good for removing gaskets, buffing parts, etc.
Graham
most important thing, IMHO, is to get a notebook and WRITE DOWN every step of disassembly as you do it, with corresponding numbers written on pieces of masking tape and attached to the nuts, bolts, hoses, assemblies, wiring connectors, etc. it is IMPOSSIBLE to remember how it all goes back together again. also draw yourself some pictures.
I followed the manuals for disassembly instructions, but roughly they were:
1) remove and label accelerator and cruise control cables.
2) remove and label vacuum hoses.
3) remove and label electrical connectors
4) remove and label fuel lines (don't do this while engine is warm! -- reduce pressure first by pulling fuse for fuel pump and cranking engine briefly.)
5) then start disassembling the actual components from the top of the intake path until you get as deep as you want.
6) as long as you're doing this, I would recommend changing all vacuum hoses (which, IMHO, are more likely to be leaking than the actual intake gaskets) and also do a close inspection of the fuel and water hoses leading to the top of the engine block, once you get there.
7) reassembly is the reverse, starting with the final number on your list!
two more hints: permatex spray-on gasket remover is good, (though nasty) for removing gaskets, and a 3M plastic paint remover that you chuck into a power drill is also good for removing gaskets, buffing parts, etc.
Graham
What other tools will I need to use to scrape the gaskets off. (Besides the ones mentioned by gvink above)?
Also, should i use silicon stuff IN ADDITION to the new OEM gaskets i bought?
Also, should i use silicon stuff IN ADDITION to the new OEM gaskets i bought?
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If you bought the pineapple sleeves, and the gasket from Rob, you will probably get the metal ones. The nice thing about the metal ones is, if you ever decide to remove the manifold again, it comes right off. No sticking or anything. Not to mention it will reseal again and again. I've had my intake apart 3-4 times...still using the same gasket. CJ
CJ
Not trying to kick this dead horse...but I would still like to know if I should use silicone in conjunction with the paper gaskets I got from mazda? Or should I just use the gasket by itself? Also, Any other special tools I need besides what was mentioned above?
