New guy has some questions...be nice.
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Seattle. WA
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
New guy has some questions...be nice.
I am going to be looking for a new car soon and I have been considering an FC. I currently own a Porsche 911SC which I am selling soon. I am going back to school and want something cheaper but still lots of fun. My max budget for car+mods is $7500.
My choices are either a 84-87 Corolla GTS, 89-92 Nissan 240sx or a 87-90 RX7. Since I was 16 I use to drool over all of those cars in the Japanese magazine Option. The problem with the Corolla is they are getting hard to find and when I do find them, people charge way too much due to the new "drifting and InitialD is cool" movement in the US. The 240sx is nice but a SR20det swap puts it over my budget. So I am looking harder at the RX7 now.
Sorry for the novel there. Here is my questions.
-I have heard mixed opinions on 2nd gens. Some people say they are oil buring pigs, other swear by them. I have good knowledge of normal 4 or 6 cyl engines but I don't know a lot about rotaries. Is it a "user friendly" engine?
-Are they reliable if maintained well?
-Are certain years better then others?
-What do you recommend? Find a high mileage car for cheap and upgrade? ($2500) OR get a clean low mileage car? ($5000)
-This car is basically going to be used for a fun car. (drifting, canyon runs, open track days) No competition or anything. I may dump a lot of money into later, I may not. Is it worth paying more for a Turbo 2 for what I want to do?
If anyone has some comments or suggestions, let me know.
My choices are either a 84-87 Corolla GTS, 89-92 Nissan 240sx or a 87-90 RX7. Since I was 16 I use to drool over all of those cars in the Japanese magazine Option. The problem with the Corolla is they are getting hard to find and when I do find them, people charge way too much due to the new "drifting and InitialD is cool" movement in the US. The 240sx is nice but a SR20det swap puts it over my budget. So I am looking harder at the RX7 now.
Sorry for the novel there. Here is my questions.
-I have heard mixed opinions on 2nd gens. Some people say they are oil buring pigs, other swear by them. I have good knowledge of normal 4 or 6 cyl engines but I don't know a lot about rotaries. Is it a "user friendly" engine?
-Are they reliable if maintained well?
-Are certain years better then others?
-What do you recommend? Find a high mileage car for cheap and upgrade? ($2500) OR get a clean low mileage car? ($5000)
-This car is basically going to be used for a fun car. (drifting, canyon runs, open track days) No competition or anything. I may dump a lot of money into later, I may not. Is it worth paying more for a Turbo 2 for what I want to do?
If anyone has some comments or suggestions, let me know.
#3
Do a barrel roll!
iTrader: (4)
It really depends on what you want as far as performance, and can you handle a little downtime on the car for maintenance. A N/A rx-7 FC can be reliable as hell, last for up to 200k miles or longer with routine maintenace, but isnt going to be the fastest car in town or anything. With a descent amount of mods you can rum in the high 14's. Now a T2 on the other hand can be a beast, with very little mods. But you will sacrafice some of the reliability, you may break stuff. Also Id read up alot on rotary maintenace and stuff before you buy one. Hope this helps.
#5
oh whoops,
-oil burning pigs? um... Yes, they burn oil by design, to lube the Apex seals, it's necessary. Expect about 1 quart/oil change.
-Yes, 3 moving parts, very user-friendly, VERY easy to mod as well. (ever look at a 300ZX engine?)
-VERY VERY reliable if maintained well. 200k on a N/A, 120+k on a TII. 120k is VERY good for a high performance engine with forced induction.
-the 89-91 are the best FC's, best looks, the most bhp, less miles now, short shifter, round guages, circle tails etc...
-Find a TII w/a blown engine (and rest of car in good condition). replace engine with a street port for around $2.5-3k. Get BPU and maybe BPU+ mods from there... should net around a reliable 275-320RWHP for $7k.
They are all "fun" cars. But the TII is more of a recreational car than a daily driver (although it can be and makes a good one too!).
If you are used to the speed of a 911, then the TII will be good since you can get world class handling and sub 14 second 1/4 mile times. The N/A is a world class handler but you will get 16.0 seconds in the 1/4 mile STOCK. maybe mid 14's if you have 7k to dump into it .
-oil burning pigs? um... Yes, they burn oil by design, to lube the Apex seals, it's necessary. Expect about 1 quart/oil change.
-Yes, 3 moving parts, very user-friendly, VERY easy to mod as well. (ever look at a 300ZX engine?)
-VERY VERY reliable if maintained well. 200k on a N/A, 120+k on a TII. 120k is VERY good for a high performance engine with forced induction.
-the 89-91 are the best FC's, best looks, the most bhp, less miles now, short shifter, round guages, circle tails etc...
-Find a TII w/a blown engine (and rest of car in good condition). replace engine with a street port for around $2.5-3k. Get BPU and maybe BPU+ mods from there... should net around a reliable 275-320RWHP for $7k.
They are all "fun" cars. But the TII is more of a recreational car than a daily driver (although it can be and makes a good one too!).
If you are used to the speed of a 911, then the TII will be good since you can get world class handling and sub 14 second 1/4 mile times. The N/A is a world class handler but you will get 16.0 seconds in the 1/4 mile STOCK. maybe mid 14's if you have 7k to dump into it .
#6
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Re: New guy has some questions...be nice.
Originally posted by Mikey_b
-I have good knowledge of normal 4 or 6 cyl engines but I don't know a lot about rotaries. Is it a "user friendly" engine?
-I have good knowledge of normal 4 or 6 cyl engines but I don't know a lot about rotaries. Is it a "user friendly" engine?
-Are they reliable if maintained well?
-Are certain years better then others?
-What do you recommend? Find a high mileage car for cheap and upgrade? ($2500) OR get a clean low mileage car? ($5000)
-This car is basically going to be used for a fun car. (drifting, canyon runs, open track days) No competition or anything. I may dump a lot of money into later, I may not. Is it worth paying more for a Turbo 2 for what I want to do?
-This car is basically going to be used for a fun car. (drifting, canyon runs, open track days) No competition or anything. I may dump a lot of money into later, I may not. Is it worth paying more for a Turbo 2 for what I want to do?
#7
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Outer Banks, NC
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
These cars are a blast to own and drive. The genius of their design can only be appreciated after you have spent some time with the car--in the driver's seat and under the hood. I believe that they have a personality and not the "appliance" feel of some other cars.
All that aside, the RX7 has one thing other cars don't---this great forum!
Whatever you choose--good luck with it.
All that aside, the RX7 has one thing other cars don't---this great forum!
Whatever you choose--good luck with it.
Trending Topics
#8
completely wankelfied
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Bloomington IN
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bought my FC with 179000 miles on it, rebuilt motor, when I don't know, but the best way to check is look between the oil fill tube on the n/a's and see if the 13b
MAZDA
has an outline or is in a solid block if they are the same (cause they should be different) then you know you got a rebuild.
Check the other side of the motor to determine if it's gonna have electrical problems( check for wiring meltdown). Under the intake there are two vacuum actuators on opposing sides try to move them if they don't move knock 300 bucks off the price those are the six port actuators.
I could go on and on since you live in the noeth west you shouldn't be concerned with rust but always check. Good luck finding one and GET IN A SEVEN SOON!!!!
MAZDA
has an outline or is in a solid block if they are the same (cause they should be different) then you know you got a rebuild.
Check the other side of the motor to determine if it's gonna have electrical problems( check for wiring meltdown). Under the intake there are two vacuum actuators on opposing sides try to move them if they don't move knock 300 bucks off the price those are the six port actuators.
I could go on and on since you live in the noeth west you shouldn't be concerned with rust but always check. Good luck finding one and GET IN A SEVEN SOON!!!!
#9
What Subscription?
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Aiken SC USA
Posts: 5,926
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Often overlooked point on the "89-91" is best theory:
1. Non-replaceable ball joints.
2. Ford thunderdork wanna be tailights
3. PITA Seatbelts
4. HEAVIEST REX besides a vert
1. Non-replaceable ball joints.
2. Ford thunderdork wanna be tailights
3. PITA Seatbelts
4. HEAVIEST REX besides a vert
#10
Total Balance is Key
iTrader: (14)
I am a proud owner of a rx7 and I have had quite a few problems already. Ive had my rx7 for only about a month now but problems will arise. But once theyre fixed, man is it all worth it. Not too mention everyone and their mom is doing a sr20det into a 240sx. I have much respect for the sr 240s but I feel that its too much of a trend now. I guess like hondas but I used to have one too so ill bite my tongue now. The same goes for the corolla but its a koo car. Whatever you decide to do just make sure that it is gonna make you happy and ask yourself this question,"will I be happy driving this car everyday and do I really want it or just want it because i need to jump on the bandwagaon?". Once you answer that you'll know what you really want. But a rx7 is one of the greatest cars in my opinion period.
Last edited by Turbo II FC; 08-28-02 at 09:54 PM.
#13
0-60 in 15 minutes
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Camp Pendleton, CA/ Boulder, CO
Posts: 372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by photoresistor
"2. Ford thunderdork wanna be tailights"
Hey, they look better than the series 4 ones.
"2. Ford thunderdork wanna be tailights"
Hey, they look better than the series 4 ones.
#16
Despise Enmity
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 2,420
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There's a thread which outlines a buildup of everything you'd need for a 400hp monster (turbo of course). Cost after car was around 6K if memory serves. Do a search for it.
#17
SCCA Rookie
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Sterling Heights, MI
Posts: 1,936
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no kidding? I'd like to see that buildup. Hopefully I can find it in a search.
Seriously, I spent about $3000 total on my '90 TurboII. It's in great shape, paint is really nice, leather interior is good. The engine was blown (bad rear rotor) so I spent $1500 on the car, $1100 for an engine (with an extra transmission that I still have to sell) and maybe another $400 on miscellaneous parts.. probably less. So $3000 and I've got a running TurboII that's a blast to drive. I spent $100 and had a full custom turbo-back exhaust made of 2.5" piping (should have done 3" but oh well..)
And now that I've done that.. oh I should mention one more thing.. stock boost is around 8 psi. With those mods I should be boosting around 10 or so, BUT something is up with my electrical that I haven't bothered to fix yet, so I'm only running about 5.5psi (that's even below stock) and I just ran a 14.1 @ 99.86 mph (and broke 100mph on another run).
You can be "quick" for cheap with these cars, and if you want to do an investment, you can be fast with a slightly larger (but still relatively small) investment.
Seriously, I spent about $3000 total on my '90 TurboII. It's in great shape, paint is really nice, leather interior is good. The engine was blown (bad rear rotor) so I spent $1500 on the car, $1100 for an engine (with an extra transmission that I still have to sell) and maybe another $400 on miscellaneous parts.. probably less. So $3000 and I've got a running TurboII that's a blast to drive. I spent $100 and had a full custom turbo-back exhaust made of 2.5" piping (should have done 3" but oh well..)
And now that I've done that.. oh I should mention one more thing.. stock boost is around 8 psi. With those mods I should be boosting around 10 or so, BUT something is up with my electrical that I haven't bothered to fix yet, so I'm only running about 5.5psi (that's even below stock) and I just ran a 14.1 @ 99.86 mph (and broke 100mph on another run).
You can be "quick" for cheap with these cars, and if you want to do an investment, you can be fast with a slightly larger (but still relatively small) investment.
#18
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Illinois
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I should have about 7500-8500 in the car and mods and am looking for 400rwhp. I recommend research and starting with a good base, ie, Haltech, big radiator, etc. After that it get's easy to make power.
#19
My cars louder than yours
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Augusta, GA
Posts: 1,969
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by dre_2ooo
One drive with the rotary and you will be hooked. It has a unique "soul" and heritage that other cars don't.
One drive with the rotary and you will be hooked. It has a unique "soul" and heritage that other cars don't.
#20
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Newton, NC
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am a huge fan of the rx7 and 240sx not to mention I love toyota's.
Anyway, your best bet is to really research the cars you are interested in. check this site out.
http://www.nissaninfiniticlub.net/
That is where they have moved the infamous 240sx.org forums.
It is possible to turbo the ka24de for under 1500 dollars if you know what your doing. "junkyard turbo kit." I have a decent amount of info on this if you want it. PM me for info on what and who on the org have done this.
You should be able to find a turbo II for the money you have to spend if you look in the right places. I would have to say at least you have it narrowed to three good choices.
Anyway good luck with what ever you decide.
Anyway, your best bet is to really research the cars you are interested in. check this site out.
http://www.nissaninfiniticlub.net/
That is where they have moved the infamous 240sx.org forums.
It is possible to turbo the ka24de for under 1500 dollars if you know what your doing. "junkyard turbo kit." I have a decent amount of info on this if you want it. PM me for info on what and who on the org have done this.
You should be able to find a turbo II for the money you have to spend if you look in the right places. I would have to say at least you have it narrowed to three good choices.
Anyway good luck with what ever you decide.
#22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Seattle. WA
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for all the replies.
I know my choice of cars could look bandwagonish but I don't care. My original choices were olders cars that I really love like Alfa Romeo GTVs, BMW 2002s or Datsun 510s. The problem with those is that its really hard to find a clean, non-abused rust free example. So I decided to look for newer cars instead. My only criteria is it has to be RWD, under 3000lbs, handle well, and have a lot of aftermarket support. And the car needs to cost less then $4500. That is what narrowed down my choices to the FC, S13 or AE86. I have been in love with those cars for long time and have old Japanese Option magazines from the mid 90s to prove it.
It sounds like the NA model can be a little less troublesome but the turbo model is better all around package.
By doing the usual bolt-ons..ecu, header, exhaust, intake for the NA car...what kind of gains would you expect? I know with turbo cars you can spend $1000 and get another 50HP. Do any companies make basic single turbo bolt on kits for FCs or do I have to make a custom setup? I did a search and I couldn't find any info. Thanks again.
I know my choice of cars could look bandwagonish but I don't care. My original choices were olders cars that I really love like Alfa Romeo GTVs, BMW 2002s or Datsun 510s. The problem with those is that its really hard to find a clean, non-abused rust free example. So I decided to look for newer cars instead. My only criteria is it has to be RWD, under 3000lbs, handle well, and have a lot of aftermarket support. And the car needs to cost less then $4500. That is what narrowed down my choices to the FC, S13 or AE86. I have been in love with those cars for long time and have old Japanese Option magazines from the mid 90s to prove it.
It sounds like the NA model can be a little less troublesome but the turbo model is better all around package.
By doing the usual bolt-ons..ecu, header, exhaust, intake for the NA car...what kind of gains would you expect? I know with turbo cars you can spend $1000 and get another 50HP. Do any companies make basic single turbo bolt on kits for FCs or do I have to make a custom setup? I did a search and I couldn't find any info. Thanks again.
#24
Hks Ownz Me (
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: corona,CA
Posts: 1,489
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
all i have to say is drive a turbo2 and you will be hooked the power is so smooth and feels good all the way to redline... when you get in an rx7 you know that this car was MEANT to go faster than it can go stock .... when you get in it, its like it says drive me as hard as you can.... hehe its kinda like you have to drive one yourself to be a beleiver... find one now and test drive her you wont be let down....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post