New Georgia FC owner here, hello all
#1
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New Georgia FC owner here, hello all
Hello everyone, just purchased my first FC, an 87 turbo II. Just thought I'd get to know some of you all, since I plan to do a lot of work to it. It is my project car, that I hope to make ungodly fast (sure I'm not the only one to say it lol). Anyway, I love the car, sure needs some TLC, but that's were you guys come in right So what are some local South East places to check out? Any shops or stores worth checking out? Websites? Anyway, here's my 7
Bonez DP
Turbo XS dual stage boost controller
Apexi N1 single Exhaust
Bonez DP
Turbo XS dual stage boost controller
Apexi N1 single Exhaust
Last edited by The Truth; 04-20-03 at 09:12 PM.
#7
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well, I have no clue why, but my car is weak, as in stumbling, when WOT up until 5000, at 4000, it literally feels like the engine quit and started again. So how do I fix this?
Also, my shifter is so weird, but I have nothing to compare it to.. I can put it in second (with grinds) but then the shifter will go another 2 inches, far enough to hit the e brake if it was up.
I just bought this car, came with A LOT of uninstalled things, but I don't know where to start lol... I want to get this thing running good before I up the boost. It had 600 cc injectors installed so it ALWAYS floods, so I have to use a fuel cut switch to get it to start. When it does start, it won't run for long without dying (maybe too much fuel for idle?) It's on a stock ECU. I have no piggy back fuel management systems or gauges, but I'm not sure where to start there either?
I can get a T2 tranny, no grinds, for 350, 500 installed, is this a good deal? Anyway, that should get you guys started lol... , this is going to be THE car for me. It will eventually be a jawdropper, but initialy I just want it to be fast and semi-reliable, before I go nuts with full out restoration of the interior and exterior and Turbo + Nitrous
Also, my shifter is so weird, but I have nothing to compare it to.. I can put it in second (with grinds) but then the shifter will go another 2 inches, far enough to hit the e brake if it was up.
I just bought this car, came with A LOT of uninstalled things, but I don't know where to start lol... I want to get this thing running good before I up the boost. It had 600 cc injectors installed so it ALWAYS floods, so I have to use a fuel cut switch to get it to start. When it does start, it won't run for long without dying (maybe too much fuel for idle?) It's on a stock ECU. I have no piggy back fuel management systems or gauges, but I'm not sure where to start there either?
I can get a T2 tranny, no grinds, for 350, 500 installed, is this a good deal? Anyway, that should get you guys started lol... , this is going to be THE car for me. It will eventually be a jawdropper, but initialy I just want it to be fast and semi-reliable, before I go nuts with full out restoration of the interior and exterior and Turbo + Nitrous
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#9
Rotary Enthusiast
well how old are the spark plugs? when was the last full tune up? the first thing u swhoudl try is to do a full tune up. i knwo that i like to change spark plugs every 10k. on my friends tII that doestn run rich at all it started breakin up after the plugs had over 10k miles on them. also those injectors are a little bigger than stock 550cc. as far as the tranny goes u might be able to do it urself depending on how mechanically inclined u are. i did a clutch jpb myself and thought it to be easier than expected. but yeah good price on tranny i guess. if i were u i wouldnt be worying about running rich lol.
edit: also try posting in the second gen section with purture questions.
edit: also try posting in the second gen section with purture questions.
#11
Senior Member
First off..Boost Gauge...Second Off...Compression Test...Third off..Put your stock viscous fan, shroud, and belly pan back in place..Install Oil and Water Temp gauges...
These cars are MUCH more sensitive to temperature than piston cars...you need to make sure your cooling system is in PERFECT shape before modding the car...You said it was running hot...How hot?...If it boiled over, it's new engine time...
Getting it to run right before upping the boost is the #1 priority...
Check out www.fc3s-pro.com
Read and learn young Jedi...
PM me if you need some help...I dont know of many FC owners in Macon though...
These cars are MUCH more sensitive to temperature than piston cars...you need to make sure your cooling system is in PERFECT shape before modding the car...You said it was running hot...How hot?...If it boiled over, it's new engine time...
Getting it to run right before upping the boost is the #1 priority...
Check out www.fc3s-pro.com
Read and learn young Jedi...
PM me if you need some help...I dont know of many FC owners in Macon though...
Last edited by KenA; 05-02-03 at 11:30 AM.
#12
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I have to agree with what Ken and Crusader said. You need to do a basic tune up and get a compression check. Are you sure the injectors aren't the stock 550's?
Sounds like you lost an apex seal to me, sorry. Hope you didn't pay too much for it.
As for the shifter, it probably just needs new bushings. They get worn out and eventually the shifter gets so loose it feels like you're gonna pull it out when you shift one good time. I would try that before you get another tranny. Those TII trannies are pretty beefy, and don't wear out easily, even under large doses of power.
I'm gonna move this to the 2nd gen forum for you.
Ren
Sounds like you lost an apex seal to me, sorry. Hope you didn't pay too much for it.
As for the shifter, it probably just needs new bushings. They get worn out and eventually the shifter gets so loose it feels like you're gonna pull it out when you shift one good time. I would try that before you get another tranny. Those TII trannies are pretty beefy, and don't wear out easily, even under large doses of power.
I'm gonna move this to the 2nd gen forum for you.
Ren
#13
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why in the world do you think I lost an apex seal? It still runs strong. I have a vacuum leak for one thing on the left side because of a crappy block off plate
does a boilover automatically mean a ruined motor? still runs strong...
does a boilover automatically mean a ruined motor? still runs strong...
#14
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okay, I get it, my post made it confusing, my car DOES run and runs strong, it just hesitates at 3800... it doesn't over heat any more, i switched out the thermostat
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