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Joined: May 2017
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From: Vancouver
New to the forum
Hello everyone
I just purchased a 1986 FC 1.3 n/a with 222k km on the odometer. The car is in decent shape but does require some fix up.
The first area that I wanna to tackle is the seat. I am not planning to do anything crazy to the car, just wanted the build to be something fun to drive for the summer time. I looked into the Sparco seats and wanted something like the R100. Sparco USA.
I did search the forum for a while and came across threads on which ones fit, but most of them are related to more competition oriented seats. My question is that with this R100, what type of seat rails, and sliders would I need to fit into the car, or does it require some DIY fabrication to make it work? I am roughly 130lbs and 5'7''.
Thanks in advance.
I just purchased a 1986 FC 1.3 n/a with 222k km on the odometer. The car is in decent shape but does require some fix up.
The first area that I wanna to tackle is the seat. I am not planning to do anything crazy to the car, just wanted the build to be something fun to drive for the summer time. I looked into the Sparco seats and wanted something like the R100. Sparco USA.
I did search the forum for a while and came across threads on which ones fit, but most of them are related to more competition oriented seats. My question is that with this R100, what type of seat rails, and sliders would I need to fit into the car, or does it require some DIY fabrication to make it work? I am roughly 130lbs and 5'7''.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by alienfc; May 16, 2017 at 06:19 PM. Reason: Typo
Hello everyone
I just purchased a 1986 FC 1.3 n/a with 22k km on the odometer. The car is in decent shape but does require some fix up.
The first area that I wanna to tackle is the seat. I am not planning to do anything crazy to the car, just wanted the build to be something fun to drive for the summer time. I looked into the Sparco seats and wanted something like the R100. Sparco USA.
I did search the forum for a while and came across threads on which ones fit, but most of them are related to more competition oriented seats. My question is that with this R100, what type of seat rails, and sliders would I need to fit into the car, or does it require some DIY fabrication to make it work? I am roughly 130lbs and 5'7''.
Thanks in advance.
I just purchased a 1986 FC 1.3 n/a with 22k km on the odometer. The car is in decent shape but does require some fix up.
The first area that I wanna to tackle is the seat. I am not planning to do anything crazy to the car, just wanted the build to be something fun to drive for the summer time. I looked into the Sparco seats and wanted something like the R100. Sparco USA.
I did search the forum for a while and came across threads on which ones fit, but most of them are related to more competition oriented seats. My question is that with this R100, what type of seat rails, and sliders would I need to fit into the car, or does it require some DIY fabrication to make it work? I am roughly 130lbs and 5'7''.
Thanks in advance.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
There is a list of "Seats that fit" thread posted.
Sparco makes a seat bracket that can be used to install their seats depending on whet type or model of seat you choose.
Now if you decide to use the stock rails you will find the Driver's side is easy to do,But the passenger side brackets slant a bit and has funny mounting points.
Sparco makes a seat bracket that can be used to install their seats depending on whet type or model of seat you choose.
Now if you decide to use the stock rails you will find the Driver's side is easy to do,But the passenger side brackets slant a bit and has funny mounting points.
First thing to decide is if you need the two sets to sit the same...meaning that viewed from the front and side, the driver and passenger seats appear mounted on the same plane.
The problem we have is the big difference between the two mounting solutions- the passenger side has a weird inner rail mount and the seat base is different to accommodate the height offset. Take your basic aftermarket flat bottomed seat and the passenger side will have to sit higher to get the base flat. To achieve symmetry, you'll have to raise the driver seat to match. At 5'7", headroom will probably not be an issue for you if you raise the driver seat but it sure is for taller folks.
The driver side is much easier- the mount points are basically flat and a mirror image (but not exactly), so it becomes a question of how much you care about what is essentially an aesthetic decision.
I've tried several different seats in my car and finally found the stock GTU (base model) cloth seats to be the best solution. Fortunately, the padding/bolstering fits me well and naturally, being OEM they bolt right in.
No matter which way you go, here's a tech tip that will simplify your life.
The seat rails are bolted to the chassis and the rear points can be cranky to start properly...they are fine pitch
and easily crossthreaded.
Ditch the bolts and install studs in the rear mount points.
You can drop the seat over the studs and rock it forward to install the easy to see and access front bolts, then crank washers/nuts onto the studs.
Much betterer.
The problem we have is the big difference between the two mounting solutions- the passenger side has a weird inner rail mount and the seat base is different to accommodate the height offset. Take your basic aftermarket flat bottomed seat and the passenger side will have to sit higher to get the base flat. To achieve symmetry, you'll have to raise the driver seat to match. At 5'7", headroom will probably not be an issue for you if you raise the driver seat but it sure is for taller folks.
The driver side is much easier- the mount points are basically flat and a mirror image (but not exactly), so it becomes a question of how much you care about what is essentially an aesthetic decision.
I've tried several different seats in my car and finally found the stock GTU (base model) cloth seats to be the best solution. Fortunately, the padding/bolstering fits me well and naturally, being OEM they bolt right in.
No matter which way you go, here's a tech tip that will simplify your life.
The seat rails are bolted to the chassis and the rear points can be cranky to start properly...they are fine pitch
and easily crossthreaded.
Ditch the bolts and install studs in the rear mount points.
You can drop the seat over the studs and rock it forward to install the easy to see and access front bolts, then crank washers/nuts onto the studs.
Much betterer.
Rotorhead
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 9,136
Likes: 39
From: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
If you don't need actual racing seats then you can just have a local upholstery shop recover the stock seats for about half the price of new seats, and that way you don't need to worry about fitment.
I love this tip Clocker. Oddly, sourcing the M10x1.25 studs/threaded rod is challenging. the studs are $15 per inch from McMaster Carr?!
Oh, and one car that has even worse seat fitment issues than the FC is the FD.
Oh, and one car that has even worse seat fitment issues than the FC is the FD.
The seat rails are bolted to the chassis and the rear points can be cranky to start properly...they are fine pitch and easily crossthreaded.
Ditch the bolts and install studs in the rear mount points.
You can drop the seat over the studs and rock it forward to install the easy to see and access front bolts, then crank washers/nuts onto the studs.
Ditch the bolts and install studs in the rear mount points.
You can drop the seat over the studs and rock it forward to install the easy to see and access front bolts, then crank washers/nuts onto the studs.
Last edited by cone_crushr; May 28, 2017 at 10:57 PM.