I'm totally new to FCs and rotory performance. Old car was a certain popular 4 banger that everyone and their mom has. I know very little about rotory performance and want to learn some more, if someone could steer me towards a few sites to read up on what I'm getting into that'd be great.

Now, I want to do a full 3" Exhaust from the down pipe back, keeping only one cat, no resonators and the dual muffler set up. However I don't want any boost spikes so what should I do to avoid this? In other words what mods should go with the exhaust.

 

first off. what year is your car and what not

 

Obviously a TII, since he is talking about a turbo in the 2nd Gen forum, so I'll take this for granted:

1) a nice exhaust (turbo-back and keeping the cat) is a very good move, and will probably give you another 20HP or so. Of course if the old components are also clogged to death, then the difference will be stellar

2) Also improve the intake (you will have to after the exhaust). If you want to keep the stock box, just drop in a K&N, or BMC, or Green or whatever filter. If you want to take it further, you could make a nice hood-scoop right above the box, make the appropriate hole in the box, and seal the contacts

If you want to go open filter, remove the box, mount a nice cone filter, and make sure you make a cold-box (DIY or brand).

Thats it for the first mods. All the above after of course you have made sure that the car is running perfectly After that, you can a) install a boost controller, b) install an FD pump, c) upgrade the injectors, d) install a AFC, e) upgrade the radiator and the intercooler..........


.........only the sky is the limit

As for sites,
http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/
http://www.teamfc3s.org/
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/
http://www.fc3s.org/
http://www.rotaryengineillustrated.com/
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.
.
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and many more

 

WARNING.: Before you think about modding a T2, get a fuel cut defender or make one yourself, I have no idea how they work but do a search and you will learn.
Check the 2nd gen archive

 

1SxyRXy: It's a 92 Turbo 2.

The Ace: Thanks for the sites and nice.

Kim: I found a how to on how to do make a home made FCD. So I'll do that first.

I'm going to install the Apex'i intake and a DIY cold-box. Next I'd like to get some gauges in this thing to know what's going on. Most importantly a boost gauge, I hear the Apex'i is the best any truth to this? What other gauges should I run? EGT, oil pressure, air/fuel, etc?

Then a turbo timer (this will be first actually), what brand?

After these are out of the way I'm going to do the Rad and fan and install a nice fmic so that's taken care of before any big power or changes are made.

 

In my last post I meant to say 90, not 92.
Help, please!

 

Won't you run lean with just a open filter?

 

lol
I don't think that just a cone filter will make you run lean.

 

Well if you stock filter was horriblely dirty then it would run a bit leaner but not that any that would damage the engine. My friend's S13 is running leaner with the K&N panel now but his stock filter was black, dirty as hell. Been a few weeks and no problems at all.

Any help with my questions guys/gals?

 

From what I've read if you just add a cone filter and exhaust that it's bad for your engine (w/turbo). Wouldn't you need to change your fuel pump and/or fuel lines?

 

Guys, I can understand why you are so frightened about running lean, but you know what ? Rotaries arent made out of sugar . They can withstand a lot of abuse, and also *some* detonations. Also, you can up the boost quite a bit before having to worry about running TOO lean and risking detonation anyway.....

A cone filter, a DP, and a catback (keeping the main cat, or installing a race cat) WILL NOT increase the boost that much to risk detonation (except of course if your fuel system is malfunctioning). You can hit the fuel-cut off easilly, but you wont run lean. Even installing a FCD (like I did), and not adding anything to the fuel system, will work just fine.

Its the immediately next mod that will put you into "dangerous territory", because this is usually either a midpipe (ditching the main cat), or a boost controller. From then on, you also need a fuel pump (FD pump will do just fine), and *maybe* bigger injectors (again, FD will do just fine). In order to tune of course, you will need a fuel computer as well (piggyback, easier to setup and cheaper ).

As for gauges:
1) you need a mechanical boost gauge, and a rather good at that, in order to keep an eye on your boost levels. The stock is pretty decent, but its electrical, and a very old one
2) you need a good water temp gauge. The stock is not very accurate, and does not follow water temps very closely. Its usually "cold, working, too hot/too late".
3) If you are very **** retentive, you can get an oil temp gauge. Useful, but not too much on a moderately modded RX. Installation is the same as for the water gauge.
4) You can also make a A/F gauge yourself, because the "brand" ones are WAAAAAYYYYYYYYY too expensive for something that you can build for 10 bucks

Dont mess with EGT, pressure gauges etc etc.....You dont need them, and you dont want them.

EDIT: on a more personal note, during the time that I was running without a wastegate , I was hitting 1bar (14.5psi) repeatedly (with cone filter, catback, FCD), and the engine was running like a charm. After I fixed the wastegate problem, the engine measured the exact same compression numbers as before. This is of course not a universal standard, but it shows that a rotary can withstand serious boost before needing any modifications

 

u are not right about gauges Ace

EGT, fuel pressure, oil pressure etc are always helpfull even u are not going to be crazy with tuning...is much more informative than ENGINE light or what not when it comes to some problem..

 

Ace:

I agree about the cone intake not raising boost to the brink of possible detonation, however, if it sits unshielded in the engine bay, it CAN raise intake temps to a point where detonation can occur.

 

Aye, you'll need a fuel cut defender (You can buy one from rx7.com) if you put an exhaust and cold air intake on. A downpipe and catback for exhaust unless you have liberal smog rules or someone who will not check for emissions, if so, get a cat replacement pipe and chunck the cat. (FYI: If you believe auto emissions cause holes in the ozone layer i've got some ocean front property i'll sell you in Nebraska)

As for intake, i just stuck a cone type K&N on it. Makes a huge difference. The more air you can get in an out of the motor, the happier the motor is.

 

Thanks guys.

What a about a turbo timer? Is any one of them good or does it differ from brands?

 

They all do the same thing: keep the motor running for a specified amount of time after you turned off the engine with the key. Thats all.

So, just buy the cheapest one you can find, and you are set