Ok first question first, why are there 2 bleeder nipple on the rear rotors?

and secondly, My E-Brake doesn't work and I have taken the springs off removed the rust from them and worked them with silicone lube, not the bedroom kind you sickos. and they still don't return after i pull the E-Brake.

I have been trying to get the idle to set and i have tried with no success for about 3 hrs straight, are there any tips/tricks, can i access the rear screw w/o taking the TB off, i am getting frustrated with it because i like the sound of an rx idling with a streetport, and my crappy city mileage is ticking the wife off.

Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

 

Top bleeder is for routine bleeding. Bottom bleeder is used if the calipers are new, refurbished or have been removed from the car and drained of fluid.

Typically if you install refirbs it will fix your e-brake issue unless one of the other springs in the system is broken. When you do, the best way to bleed is to do the whole system starting with the back and using the bottom bleeders, then the fronts. Then go to the back again and use the top ones, then the fronts one more time...

 

So if I bleed the whole system, it might fix it? And if it doesn't i should get some refurbished rear calipers?

 

The e-brake is not hydraulic. It's mechanical. What im saying is you have broken or badly corroded spring(s) somewhere in the system causing the brake to not release.

There are springs at each caliper, springs above the driveshaft at the point where the main cable connects to the two individual cables, and i believe a spring in the actuator handle.

Gotta figure out which one of those is fouled up. It is possible you have a cable corroded inside its jacketing and it is getting hung up that way.

If you intend to bleed the hydraulic (main) system and you are not removing or disconnecting the rear calipers you only need to use the top bleeders.