loofeeTurboII

Well, got my car running today, idle fine, drive fine, but!!!
after i shut it down!!!??? i have to push start it..i drove it for total of 10miles 1st 10miles it backfire all the way, every time i lift my foot of the throttle it backfires..

anyhow like i said, after it start everything seem fines, good power, good temp, good oil press..so i'm like.. . so any input will be great, all the mod i got is in my sig...if u want to see pics..copy and paste the http : to another page... thanks..

Ryde _Or_Die

You said good power? You are breaking in the engine properly, right?

Compression builds as you break the engine in, some people say 1000-1500 miles, I've evn heard that FULL compression isn't reached until 3000 miles sometimes.

2a+RoN

mine was pretty bad for the first 30miles or so. It gets better by the day though. I am at 650 right now, just be patient and you will be thuroughly rewarded

MPM

Just for this reason my engine builder uses a test stand for all his rebuilt engines. Everyone gets atleast 3 hours running time on the stand. More if the housings were borderline reusable. But consider this, His engines start just fine on the test stand so whats the difference with those rebuilds that need to be push started? Makes you wonder doesn't it.

dr0x

He probably spins them up faster than the starter in our cars does.

darkwaveboi

im at 1,650 miles and it just now is starting to stop flood when warm

walterh

Hmm, that's weird, I rebuilt mine and it started on the first try and every time after that. No flooding whatsoever.

Templeswain

Loofee.

Do you have to push start it again even after the engine is hot?

Or is it when it cools back down that its a problem to start up again.

On my engine rebuild, I had the same problem for a long time actually. The problem was the Aftermarket Fuel injectors I put in.

My car would be a bitch to start cold. But after it warmed up I could start back up again. It was when the engine cooled down entirely when I had the starting problem.

Did you put after market Fuel Injectors in yours? Or Did you get the OEM fuel injectors cleaned and tested?

loofeeTurboII

it doesn't matter cold or warm...if i cut it off...it will not start back by it self....anyhow..by saying. it got good power it's all under 4500 rpm with no boost...it's now have total of 12 miles..lol it's loud as hell...but i was thinking i havn't take my time to set the timming yet...is that bad!!?? maybe it's off..will it cos my engine to do that???? help please.....and another q: which is the best place to tap in my boost guage ( i mean vac line..sorry)

dr0x

Depends how worn the housings are.

And yes, your timing being off could cause a lot of back firing and hard starting. Set it properly. If it still doesnt start on its own then leave the car idling at like 1500rpm for quite a few hours. My car was loud as **** and I had no insurance on it so thats what I did. The car starts fine on its own now. Whoever says idling doesnt help has never tried. My compression went from 45psi front/rear to 105psi.

loofeeTurboII

thanks, yes i tried letting it idle for a FULL gas tank til it run out of gas , idle fines, but!! also lots and lots of backfires....i'm setting my timing tomorrow..any tips??

Mr. Gadget

It takes time, just get miles/hours under your belt.

loofeeTurboII

working on that my friend.....thanks but tips on breaking in will be great.. i'm using cheap @ss plugs now..bc it burn two of my new NGK plugs already.
and i'm also not reving it up over 4500 rpm right now..premix i'm using 1oz to 1 gallonof gas. and idleing my engine for several hours @ a time... tips please tips..

Tbone_03

I've never heard a good explanation for that long break in thing. You say it's idling fine ~750 rpm? Don't sound like you're having a vacuum problem, but you might have leaking injectors. My rebuild starts every time (221 miles since new). It's usually one of two things. Fuel injectors leaking or low compression. You might look into a fuel cutoff switch. That used to help me avoid embarassing starting trubs before my rebuild. To top that off I also had low compression (jspec junk) and when I would occasionally forget to cut the fuel it would flood (warm or cold with cal'd injectors and new seals). If it didn't fire immediately I was screwed. When that happened I had to pull the lower plugs out and spin it a couple of times and put em back in and it fired right up every time. MY problem: weak compression and a rich mixture of high octane fuel don't go together well. You either have to have low octane (fast burn) with low compression or high octane (slow explosion) with good compression and especially in the case of turbocharging.

dr0x

Get a timing light to set the timing to 0. There is a factory service manual available at fc3s.org or iluvmyrx7.com for free. It explains in perfect detail how to set the timing.

RETed

There's a lot of potential culprits on preventing reliable starting, but the first 100 miles (in my book) is always hairy after a rebuild.

Other factors that prevent starting are:
*bad/worn spark plugs
*bad/worn spark plug wires
*intake vacuum leaks (idle RPM is not a real good indicator - if you have an aftermarket boost/vacuum gauge, this is a better monitor)
*bad electrical charging system (dying battery, etc.) - low voltage (on cranking) is a typical problem for most folks with cranking problems, not just recently rebuild engines
*bad grounds - this is sorta related to the last item, better grounding of the engine gives better power to starter and hotter spark at the spark plugs
*clogged/dirty fuel injectors - we typical service (i.e. clean) used fuel injectors to prevent flooding problems


-Ted