Valkyrie

Is there a place I can buy new connectors with pigtails for various engine sensors?

My manifold air temp sensor's connector is getting really wiggy (throws codes after I drove for 20-30 miles, they go away if I turn the ignition off and turn it back on) and I'd like to replace it without just cutting it off and using cheap spade connectors (ghetto rigging). But I don't know where or if you can buy OEM-grade connectors with pigtails.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

do you have a pic of it? i have a cut up harness that might have that plug.

Valkyrie

It's a connector for a simple two-prong sensor but I want to get a new one if I can... I guess there might be something out there that will work, since you can't buy separate harness connectors from Mazda.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I have been looking into this for a while. Ballenger Motorsports sells a ton of connectors and their mates, including Bosch style connectors that are found on some of our sensors and on the 86-87 1/2 injectors. They have a few pigtail kits but mostly you will just have to install the pins yourself using a crimper like this (list price $29):



http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...roducts_id/362

and then you will have to find one of the connectors there that would work. http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/index.php/cPath/109 The IAT sensor is weird on the FC because it has those two female spade terminals.

NotTTT

MoTeC has a great assortment of connectors for a variety of different sensors and styles. Unfortuneately Mazda decided to make a BUNCH of different styles. For example, the BAC on my 13B-RE was not able to be located anywhere. I had to cut it off the 13B-REW harness that I had and use two butt-connectors to splice it into the harness for my Motec.

I think your best bet will be to either get a used but better shape connector than the one you have and use two butt-connectors, or solder a length of wire onto the sensor...... very carefully, fill the cavity with epoxy and connect a metri-pack connector to the end of the wires. That was actually my backup plan if I couldn't locate the proper connector on one of the 3 harnesses that I had laying around.

Valkyrie

The sensor in question has two blades sticking out of it, so my only option is to find another similar (unsealed) connector or just some female spade connectors, but that's ghetto rigging, which just leads to having to do it over three times, and frankly I've had enough of that.

I can't change cut the whole thing out and splice in a different kind of connector, unfortunately.

Although, it might actually be something else, although it was previously. I found another issue I need to take care of before I go cutting my harness up.

I also would like to know if there is a place to get a new pigtailed connector for the water temp sensor. Mine is totally cracked and I'm surprised it even stays on at all.

NotTTT

If they are only 1/4" faston connectors than by all means pop them out and put new ones in. Terminal Supply Company, Waytek wire, or any place like that will have them. That way there is no splicing at all. Pop the old terminals out and replace them with new ones and call it job done correctly.

It's not so much the plastic connector that's keeping it in place as it is the terminals as well. Loose terminals will throw codes, not loose plastic. The other thing to do would be to pop the terminals out, clean them as best you can and very gently close the curved tops a little to give the connector more grip on the terminal.

Valkyrie

I know it's about loose terminals, but I didn't want to have to depin/repin/crimp/solder as it's a PITA and I suck at it.

In all actuality, the issue I was having before was that the wire was too short (I was planning on extending it a bit), causing the connector to simply slip off. I used a ziptie to hold the wire against the heater hose and it hasn't slipped off since, but I kept getting codes anyway.

I think the issue *might* actually be the fact that my O2 sensor has an exposed spade connector, and it might occasionally touch something metal while I'm driving at highway speeds, causing it to get grounded and through the code. I'll put some tape over it (should have done so in the first place...) and see if it goes away.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

the only suggestion I can come up with is to find a Hacked up harness with some usable connectors on it.Like 87 t-66 has a harness with some connectors on it.
See if you can take a pic of the Connector that you need.I also have some spare OFF the harness connectors.(with enough wire to Crimp,solder,tape,whatever ya want!).

Valkyrie

My problem seems to have finally gone away...

Except now I've got a wacky seatbelt light... oh well.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Drivers Side seat belt has a connector on it under the Rug.it is inbetween the seat and the trans Tunnel..
Push your seat all the way up and lift that little Carpet piece Tab there,on the bottom where the carpet meets the Bottom of the Belt.(where the Belt is secured by that 18mm nut)..you should be able to see the Connector.

Valkyrie

That connector seems fine.

There's about five or so different common causes for the seatbelt light.

Bad solder in the CPU, bad dummy light cluster (already resoldered this), bad retractor switch (tested it and it seemed fine), door lock switch, and disconnected connectors/broken wiring.

It's not a big problem at the moment, already last week it was almost always lit up (or flickering).