ok i have a problem my new clutch that i installed with my tranny slips like a bitch.its really pissing me off because when i go to take off it slips so i cant drive hard at all...if i try to burn the tires in second it slips!!!so help me out guys what could cause this ****? also if i didnt resurface the flywheel before i installed the clutch could that cause it to slip?
gosh im soo pissed i hate driving the car when its like this because the car feels weak and the shifts are shitty as hell help me please!!
87 gxl auto to 5-sp swap
rebuilt master cylinder
rebuilt slave cylinder
stainless steel clutch line
new clutch,throwout bearing,pilot bearing

can an rx-7 even spin the tires in second an n/a one that is?
my mods,
tb mod
ported uim
k&n intake
2 1/2 inch piping from cat to straight through muffler

 

How many miles on the clutch? Did you even bother to break it in before beating the **** out of it?

 

maybe 250miles umm noone ever told me that i had to break it in???

see im a pizza delivery driver so im in my car alot and after awhile is when i really take notice maybe two hours of driving.

 

people usually take 300-500 miles to break in a clutch. i gotta do mine starting next week.

but from what i hear, clutches slip when they are new, and once they are worn in its smooth running.

 

You should see how I "broke in" the used 6 puck I bought.

--Gary

 

why do you need to break in something thats used?

 

Many clutch makes say that you must break it in for 750 miles. It will slip and get straight up junk if you abuse it before it is broken in.

 

or you could go into a parking lot and do a lot of starts seeing as how riding down the highway the clutch is doing much. It probably needs heat treating, every drive the clutch material warms up then it cools off, this i think makes it harder. what kind of clutch did you get? and oh yes will a second gen spin into second, actually it will spin into 3rd gear, just down hold down the accelorator while shifting or you'll be bouncing off the rev limiter and then wearing the syncros down.

 

Yeah, clutchs and brakes need to be broken in before driving hard.

You probably have glazed the friction plate.

 

bwhahaha, Every clutch I've ever bought has this big piece of warning sheet that says INSTRUCTIONS and has this big word NOTICE: CLUTCH MUST BE BROKE IN.

Even if they didn't send one with the clutch, it should be common knowledge for EVERY amatuer mechanic. You obviously paid someone to install the clutch, huh?

Well, since you didn't break the clutch in, we could assume one of two things. 1) clutch assembly is glazed from you trying to toast it. In which case you're semi fucked for the next few months of NORMAL driving, after which case the glazing *might* wear away.

or 2) well... no, actually its probably just glazed.

Because its new?

 

ok damn it was just a stock clutch from a parts store...if i were too take it out could i sand down the pressure plate and flywheel and get it fixed?oh and i did the swap myself so i put the clutch in too everything else works just fine.guess i had to mess up somewhere.

 

^ oem clutch... meh... you're not out too much then. Yeah, some sanding with emery paper and it should be better.

Naww man, its cool. I was slipping the clutch a little when i installed mine too. Not to extensively though.

You gotta learn somehow

 

could also have to do with not resurfacing the flywheel.

anyway, I'd try and drive easy on it for a little while, see if you can get it to break in a little, and maybe it'll be okay. I've seen quite a few that weren't broken in at all. they still gripped fine after a while, they just chattered a lot, which is a PITA.

so go easy on her, and hope for the best!

 

hey smart ***, that was directed to someone else

"You should see how I "broke in" the used 6 puck I bought.

--Gary"

 

lol... oooooh, well thats different :P

 

heh all good

 

uh..did you tighten the pressure plate to the correct torque?????????????? .

 

Haha, yea... joking aside though, from what I've been told you still need to break in a used clutch unless you're using the same flywheel.

I broke it in, but it was high pressure so it was more like breaking the CAR into the clutch.

--Gary

 

So according to this I should be able to chirp 2nd easily? I've got an HKS intake as far as power mods go. I've also got 225 BFG G-Force Sports on the back so maybe thats why I can't?

 

Sintered copper disks do not need to be broken in, used or otherwise.

 

i dont want to start a new thred because i only need a quick answer, but are SACHS clutches any good?

 

well my clutch has gotten alittle better but it still slips when its heated up a bit

 

yeah.



rotorman85, might wanna try bleeding your clutch system with some good fluid(something that exceeds DOT 3 and 4 standards, but is compatible). may help a little from heat.

 

i'm surprised nobody has mentioned this yet...

did you replace the seal on the front of your transmission when you did the swap? The NA box has a seal right at the front that likes to start leaking after removal & reinstallation. I had mine leak the first time I pulled the trans to fix a pilot bearing, the clutch started slipping all the time in any gear with load. When I took it all apart I found gear oil all over the bell housing and the clutch disk was saturated with it.

Every time you pull the trans unless you did it the day before, replace the front seal on the transmission along with the pilot and throwout bearing. It just goes without saying, becuase it's such a bitch t oget in there and the parts cost so little. Really ruins your day when you have to pull the trans because of a $8 part you didnt replace!

 

It took me a really long time to figure out thats why my clutch slipped, But it was the exact same reason! wish ya mentioned that last year.. haha